What you don't know about "La Roca" is that it will surprise you... and a lot
An authentic Spanglish dialect, its own currency, one of the most peculiar airports in the world, monkeys living in freedom and endless secrets hidden in its less than 7 square kilometers.
This is 'The Rock', this piece of land where 30,000 people of multiple nationalities and religions live: British, Spanish, Pakistani, Jewish, Muslim, Hindu… what difference does it make.
The cultural richness is so immense that we have not wanted to stop take a leap across the border to discover each of its charms.
But, to start, it's time to be patient. The normal thing will be to run into a queue of cars that calmly await their turn to cross over to the British side.
Still in the territory of The Line of Conception we prepare the DNI –or the passport, if we wanted to give it a ride–. At last! We are next.
Panoramic view from the top of Pen
“Documentation, please?” he asks, in perfect plain –the mixed dialect of English and Spanish spoken in Gibraltar-, the policeman in British uniform who greets us.
After verifying that everything is in order, he gives us a “Have a nice day” so Andalusian that we can't help but put a smile on our faces. And we're already in Gibraltar .
before us its 426 meter high rock that leaves us speechless as we head for the winston churchill avenue to the airport? You are right! To get to the city center the road crosses a real runway, the first of the surprises that this visit holds for us.
Quiet: As long as the traffic light is green, everything will be in order. Once this phase is over, it is time to get rid of the car and check-in at our accommodation.
We opted for one of the newly opened hotels in Gibraltar to give us a real tribute. The Sunborn, a transatlantic superyacht rebuilt to be a five-star hotel, is docked in the port of Ocean Village , a huge and modern entertainment center.
Where to sleep? On a yacht converted into a five-star hotel and overlooking the port: the Sunborn
Our junior suite tempts us to put on the bathrobe, open a bottle of champagne and toast to the incredible views that we enjoy from the terrace of the room. But we hold back and decide to leave it for later.
He can't with us either. the solarium on the deck, nor the swimming pool, nor the restaurant, nor the spa: we come strong and determined to eat Gibraltar.
And we headed towards Casemates Square, central nucleus and heart of the daily and tourist life of the rock. Surrounded by old walls from the beginning of the 19th century, it served as a barracks and ammunition store, as well as being the place where public executions were held.
Today numerous bars and terraces occupy the square. For example Roy's, where to try the best fish and chips in Gibraltar.
Gibraltar: 7 square kilometers that go a long way
We may be in luck and coincide with one of the monthly meetings of the ** Gibraltar Classic Vehicle Association, ** a group of enthusiasts of the classic cars who display their vehicles at Casemates for everyone to enjoy.
Its annual meeting, attended by more than 100 cars from the most disparate places, takes them to line up the rock and it is quite an event worth seeing.
How? Is a military march what my ears hear? Exact! Is about a lively parade of men dressed in 18th-century soldier costumes –time of the Great Siege, when the British managed to contain the last attack of the Spanish who tried to recover the rock after having ceded it in 1713 with the Treaty of Utrecht–.
Every Saturday morning they go through the main roads of the city to commemorate the historical milestone. If we already said it... Gibraltar is a box of surprises!
From Casemates part the mythical Main Street, the most commercial street in Gibraltar. And, if anyone has come to it wanting to get hold of a product from cosmetics, jewelry or electronics, this is your moment. The stores tax free They guarantee good prices, so you have to take advantage!
Main Street, Gibraltar's shopping street
The passage of different cultures is evident in the architecture of Main Street and its surroundings. Genoese style windows they recall the time when these Italian merchants arrived on the rock – in the mid-18th century, 34% of the population was Genoese.
The wrought iron balconies, however, they are more British-inspired. Taking the romanticism out of the matter, the Spanish cultural presence surprises us in a business of Iberian ham and chorizo sandwiches… what way would it be otherwise!
We stop at the Catholic Cathedral of Saint Mary the Crowned, built on what was the old mosque, before heading to one of the great claims of Gibraltar: the Rock Nature Reserve -12 pounds the entry-.
We decide whether to by cable car, by taxi, with a concerted excursion or doing a little exercise. Who said that everything is easy in this life?
The east side from the Reserva Natural del Pen
And we started to get nervous: after six minutes of climbing, the true ambassadors of the rock They wait for us to welcome us. As Churchill said, the day the monkeys disappeared in Gibraltar, it would cease to be British.
If the ex-minister raised his head, he would probably be very proud: up to 300 macaques roam the Gibraltar Nature Reserve, the only place in Europe where you can see monkeys in freedom. They are, without a doubt, the true protagonists of 'The Rock'.
But, how should one behave before the monkeys? Good question! It is important to remember that they are wild animals and that they can react violently if they feel threatened.
No matter how cute –never better said– they seem, do not touch them or get too close. for discarded, don't give them food either –something that is punishable by up to 4,000 pounds fine–. So we limit ourselves to observing them and enjoying them and their life in freedom, which in itself is a real wonder.
To live an extra motivating experience, we can contact Brian, a primatologist expert in the behavior of these monkeys who performs alternative routes with which to understand and get to know these primates much better.
The Gibraltar Nature Reserve is the only place in Europe where you can see monkeys in freedom
Accompanied by monkeys or without them, we headed to the Saint Michael's Cave, a true wonder of nature full of stalactites and stalagmites whose history is surrounded by thousands of legends. Although during World War II it was converted to be used as a military hospital –something that never happened– today it serves as space for celebrations, concerts and even congresses.
A guided route goes into what is known as the Cueva Baja de San Miguel –be careful, there are parts where you have to climb with the help of ropes– and reaches a beautiful underground lake.
Outside again, we choose: do we move to the left and cross the Windsor Suspension Bridge, a suspension bridge 71 meters long from which we get beautiful views of the western face of Gibraltar, or to the right and visit the ** Skywalk Gibraltar, a glass viewpoint 340 meters above the ground ** opened in March 2018 , for the very Luke Skywalker! Oh my friend… In Gibraltar sometimes reality is stranger than fiction!
visit the tunnels of the rock is another must, of course. It is estimated that in total they make up 52 kilometers and run through the interior of the rock, turning it into an immense Swiss cheese. They were excavated in the mid-eighteenth century as a strategy for defense during the Great Siege: Gibraltar was strategic point number one and it was highly coveted.
Later, during World War II, the tunnels were perfected, some of them connecting ends of rock in an almost impossible way. Going through them makes the hair stand on end!
The Cueva de San Miguel, a wonder of nature where, in addition to visits, concerts and celebrations are organized
At this point, some may be wondering "when do you eat here...?". And with all the reason of the world. To do this, a couple of proposals: returning to Casemates Square, next to one of the exterior arches, is Gauchos, a restaurant specializing in grilled meats.
On the other hand, in Ocean Village, there are endless bars, pubs and restaurants. We stay with Biancas, where It doesn't matter if you order meat or fish or a complete salad: everything is delicious.
Y for coffee We got in the car and we skirted the rock until we reached Europe Point, the southernmost point of the British Overseas Territory. In the armchairs on the terrace of the Bistro Point, a very elegant restaurant with the best views of the Strait of Gibraltar –and chill out music playing in the background–, it will be time to stop for a few minutes and enjoy.
Bistro Point: chill out music and the best views of the strait
Across the strait we meet Morocco and his Jebe Musa, One of the Pillars of Hercules. The other, of course, would be Gibraltar. Two promontories that were once united but, according to mythology, Hercules separated giving way to the union of the Atlantic and the Mediterranean.
From here we can walk to the beautiful Punta Europa Lighthouse, in operation since 1841 and the only one managed by Trinity House that operates outside the United Kingdom. Very close to him Gibraltar's main mosque.
The route is coming to an end while we assimilate the great variety of experiences that can be lived in just 7 square kilometers. And as we drive through old World War II tunnels, we wonder what else might surprise us.
The answer is found only a little later: first, in what is known as Sandy Bay, a small cove of white sand where you can practice Stand Up Paddleboard (SUP): In2Adventures is dedicated to this activity.
The Punta Europa lighthouse, active since 1841
But where we just fell in love with 'The Rock' is in Catalan Bay, also called La Caleta. It is impossible not to fall asleep at the foot of this small and quiet bay of colored houses inhabited by descendants of Genoese.
And why the name? Very simple: a contingent of Catalan soldiers landed here to help the English and Dutch during the War of the Spanish Succession. Today is one of the quietest and least tourist beaches.
And while the breeze blows softly, the waves break delicately on the shore and a pair of British and Gibraltarian flags flutter in La Caleta, let's smile again. Half foreigner and half Andalusian, this is Gibraltar.
And under its duality combines the art and idiosyncrasy of both worlds. That which makes it one of the most unique and at the same time special places in the entire south of the peninsula.
Catalan Bay, known as La Caleta is a small bay of colorful houses where you can relax by the sea