Sanlúcar de Barrameda: pure essence of Cadiz
From the top of the **Torre del Homenaje del Castillo de Santiago**, you can see how Sanlúcar undresses . And he does it by stripping himself of paraphernalia and flourishes, of unnecessary beads, showing us the Andalusian essence that his streets exude.
From up there, the layout of the city can be clearly distinguished, into whose framework churches, convents and palaces . He does that too chamomile scent that not only conquers its mythical wineries, but even becomes strong in the town itself. It is in those streets that they are full of bars, people and atmosphere , where that develops Cadiz art of knowing how to enjoy even the most everyday things.
But from the tower you can also see something else: the mouth of the Guadalquivir , which opens onto the Atlantic in a union that has marked the history of Sanlúcar all its life.
Sanlucar de Barrameda smells like chamomile
500 years are commemorated precisely now of that historical milestone that was The first travel around the world . From the heights, scanning the horizon with our hands on our foreheads to protect ourselves from the sun –because beware, Sanlúcar has up to 3,000 hours of sunshine a year! , it is easy to imagine how it must have been to contemplate, that September 6, 1522, the arrival of the mythical Ship Victory , the only one of those five boats that, three years earlier, embarked on the immense adventure of circumnavigating the globe and that was able to complete the feat.
Sanlúcar was at that time a prosperous and rich land . Trade between **America and Seville** made its port a benchmark: ships passed through it on their way to and from, and Columbus departed from it on his third expedition to the Americas.
The consequence of all that? Among many other things, the city it was populated with churches and convents to house those monks who evangelized the New World, but also the mythical Houses of Porters of the Indies , in which part of the imported goods was stored.
By the way, one of them, declared Well of Cultural Interest and Historic-Artistic Complex , has been restored and converted into a hotel: the Hotel Palacio de Arizón .
Declared an Asset of Cultural Interest and Historic-Artistic Site
Now, in the 21st century, the imprint of that buoyant era It is perceived just by walking through the streets of Sanlúcar. How about we dedicate a walk to it?
SANLUCAR, LAND OF PROSPERITY
As we manage to get down the steps of the tower of tribute We stopped for a second to contemplate the scene.
The great fortress in which we find ourselves -and from which, some say, the queen Isabel La Católica saw the sea for the first time - It was built in the 15th century by Enrique Pérez de Guzmán, II Duke of Medina Sidonia. One of his rooms houses a beautiful collection of period costumes that are a delight. Hey, let's continue.
Church of Our Lady of Charity, in Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Once on the street, it's time to do what we like so much: lose ourselves on the slopes and twisted roads of the Barrio Alto.
To understand that glorious past that Sanlúcar lived through, you have to look closely at the facades of some buildings, such as the Mercy Auditorium , from the 17th century, which housed the Order of the Mercedarians.
The Church of the O , from the 14th century, appears before us very close to the castle: its imposing façade is nothing more than the casing of the treasure it keeps inside, where the “ Christ of Veracruz ” is one of the most emblematic works.
But the surprises continue in Sanlúcar, and next to the church comes the turn of the ** Ducal Palace of Medina Sidonia ,** which occupied the Alcázar Viejo of the city in its day. With its white facade and dark windows, it is today a hostel with 9 rooms. If you want to explore its interior, you will have to do it in one of the guided tours organized on different days of the week . If you don't agree with one, one option is to have a cup of coffee in your garden/interior patio. More than advisable.
Gardens of the inn of the Ducal Palace of Medina Sidonia in Sanlúcar de Barrameda
But the power of Sanlúcar was not limited to the time of trade with America, far from it. In the 19th century, and after a period of decline that had lasted for a couple of centuries, the Dukes of Montpensier arrived to liven up the roost again.
It turns out that his decision to live in Sanlúcar during the summer season caused a whole Domino effect what made that nobles and great aristocratic families of the time imitated them, and the city of Cadiz will be filled with classy summer houses. They were known as “little hotels” , which can still be seen today in the Avenue of Bajo de Guia.
But what interests us is the Palace of Orleans-Bourbon that the Montpensiers built themselves, of course: a humble abode of barely 6,500 square meters which today is the building of the Sanlucar City Hall. Their s English-style gardens are open to the public and they are wonderful. So is its colorful façade, of neo-Mudejar and neoclassical inspiration.
But to contemplate its interior, which is pure art, we will have to come up with some excuse. I'm sure something will come up...
Cabildo Square in Sanlucar de Barrameda
CATEMOS: WHAT DOES SANLUCAR TASTE?
We leave the Uptown back to dive into the entrails of Sanlucar. Because down there, as we get closer little by little towards the sea, life begins to boil in a big way . And if not, let them tell the storekeepers Food Market: any given day, as long as it is not Sunday or Monday, that becomes an absolute spectacle.
Regular customers come and go loaded with bags There they take the opportunity to mingle with the neighbor on duty and catch up: What better place to meet than surrounded by eye-catching food? What is lived there also defines Sanlúcar: between the fish that shines on the counters, the mountains of potatoes and vegetables grown in the lands of the banks of the Guadalquivir, the cheeses that come from the mountains of Cadiz and the most daily commotion, we let ourselves be infected and we participate in the staging as good spectators.
La Rondeña candy store
And now, we will have to taste the genre, right? Leaving the market we are surprised by the remains of those known as the caves , a arcaded gallery whose original function is unknown . From them we continue the descent towards the epicenter of the city, where much of the essence of Sanlúcar is concentrated.
The High Street is abuzz in the early hours, when local businesses don't stop. The same as its surrounding streets, some of which have painted tiles that commemorate Around the world of Magellan and El Cano.
Sweet lovers will be in luck: the pastry tradition in this corner of Andalusia is heaven. In Warrior House the pastries are amazingly exquisite, while in the La Rondeña candy store , on Isaac Peral street, in addition to dying of love with its decoration, you will have to try the mythical Royal Mass, a angel hair stuffed cupcake spectacular flavor. Even more traditional, if possible, are the sky bacon made by the nuns of the Madre de Dios Convent . Not trying them is considered an absolute sacrilege.
La Gitana, Sanlucar de Barrameda
is the Town Hall Square the one where tourists hang around, the older ones sit in their chairs to chatter and the most acclaimed bars delight fans of worldly pleasures. It's going to be touching a little cap...
In barbiana We bet everything on their oversized prawns –although the glory goes to those of mustache house, we attest that these well deserve it- and their famous aliñás potatoes, while for the shrimp omelettes we go to the classic Balbinus House , where managing to find a place at the bar or table is part of the gastronomic adventure – that crunch when taking the first bite is something indescribable- . The account, as mandated sites with tradition, goes to chalk and on the bar.
More fish? no problem: in The Gypsy woman We bet on the pijotas, although where some nettles are placed… Let everything else be removed.
Prawns and chamomile in Barbiana
LET'S GET PICKED UP FROM THE SOUTH
Distributed throughout the territory of Sanlúcar, even in the very heart of the city, the whitewashed walls of the historic wineries in which they are produced Sanlucar wines.
Weight names like Barbadillo either The Gypsy woman carry centuries of wine history protected under the DO. Chamomile Sanlucar de Barrameda. Wines that have been subjected to biological aging using the solera and criaderas system and that pair perfectly, why not, with a little cap on any terrace in the city.
You can take guided tours of most of the wineries. Those of Barbadillo also have a Manzanilla Museum, while Bodegas Delgado Zuleta It has a wine interpretation center. In Argueso you can attend a dramatized visit through its different spaces which, by the way, holds a surprise: the sacristy of the old Santo Domingo Monastery It is part of their facilities.
The calm waters that bathe Sanlúcar in front of Doñana
To wash it all down, the food, the wine, and the overdose of art that we have gorged ourselves on in this city, we take a walk to Under Guide , the Andalusian corner where time stops
this popular seaside neighborhood gives us the tranquility and calm of its waters, those of that Guadalquivir which has a few meters left to reach its goal, but also those of the views of the great treasure that is Doñana, who watches us impassively from the other side of the river.
To learn a little more about the national park, a good idea is to visit the Ice Factory, a 1944 building converted into an interpretation center.
It will be here, while the mythical barges ply the waters from shore to shore, some horseman dares to ride through the sand on his horse and we sit down on any of the terraces with views of paradise, where it's time to say goodbye to Sanlúcar.
In addition, we reveal a secret to you: the sunsets from this corner of the world are a spectacle. Shall we stay to see her?
The sunset from Sanlúcar de Barrameda