Fourth stage of the Californian road trip: Los Angeles, old glories and new melodies

Anonim

reddish los angeles skyline at sunset with palm trees

Los Angeles, the city where dreams come true

In dreams begin responsibilities. And here at the factory the fantasies and shelter of stars , the commitment to reality is nourished by artistic talent and the spontaneous transformation of its neighborhoods to welcome its new muses.

They say in these lands that The Angels , contemplated from the heights and in the darkness of the night, is the city most beautiful in the world. It is true. Well, halfway. To begin with because it does not exist no lookout in the city that encompasses a panorama that does it justice –perhaps the views of Mulholland Drive , which descends from Hollywood through the hills of **Santa Monica.**

sunset boulevard

You have to live it to tell it

Los Angeles is not a city simple. It's actually a bunch of almost 20 linked cities each. There is too much fabric to cut. Movie legends. Old rockers. Awesome surfers. and a trail of famous names –too many–, of production companies that build dreams, of theme parks, of hundreds of scenarios that, perhaps, survive with more glory in the welfare of the universal imaginary. In the end, the magic –or the infamy– of fiction was this. Or not?

Whether three days or three weeks, you have to live it to tell . Slowly, the city unmasks its endearing extravagances and attachment to a stream where ecology and modernity they hold out their hands. Come run and find out why intellectual lady, rocker, smug and contradictory of Southern California keeps the gear of the dream factory so fit. And eye, here they are fulfilled.

WEST HOLLYWOOD

There will always be those who think weho is the extension of the most famous district of the Cinema industry. No way. The west side of the movie house flaunts that exquisite air of gay neighborhoods of the new century and that, of course, translates into elegant cafes brimming with stars, signature restaurants, night clubs, spaces for haute couture Californian and luxurious villas inhabited by the descendants of a russian community of posh that do not disgust the afternoon debates in the refuge of the French finesse of Château Marmont .

A walk from the night myth The Viper Room , whose reputation was linked for posterity to river phoenix, on a tree-lined street near sunset boulevard, the responsibility of our dreams is set in motion in a suite – “one of the favorites of Billy Bob Thornton "- of Sunset Marquis .

The Viper Room sign on a Los Angeles street at night

The Viper Room: music and excesses

Bulwark of west hollywood glam and occasional residence of actors, directors, artists and writers, the hotel mecca of rock stars blows today 55 candles –and, in addition, it celebrates half a century of the exclusive seal of Preferred Hotels & Resorts , of which he is a member.

"There is much to celebrate," he says. Rod Gruendyke who, after 27 years as director of the 'Marquis', accumulates in his retina so many anecdotes as intimacies. And he adds: "It's all ** Jeff Beck's fault **, who saw her at the hotel. escape route, free of groupies, of the English bands visiting L.A. If these walls could rock is the editorial gem that reveals a handful of secrets of this particular love story ”.

the hotel of the lvx collection . It is an institution at all levels. What exemplary hotel , has hosted numerous stars who seek peace in this labyrinth of villas, with contemporary decoration with cutting-edge technology, protected under a Amazon vegetation.

As the epicenter of rock 'n' roll, Klaus J. Messner “the rock soul and music consultant of the Marquis”, he declares between winks: “We were the world's first hotel , and today almost the only one, with ** own recording studio ** ”.

Through NightBird they pass every year about 100 bands coming from all over the planet. Here they have been all and more... Led Zeppelin, The Who, The Doors, Aerosmith, Metallica , Iron Maiden, Kiss, Green Day, The Ramones, Rolling Stones… Julio Iglesias...

And ditch: “It is the hotel that never sleeps. Life at NightBird starts at four o'clock and ends at dawn. It helps, and a lot, that another of the myths of rock 'n' roll remains open in the lobby: "If the walls of the bar 1200 they could talk…” Rod says goodbye.

Sunset Marquis hotel pool

Sunset Marquis celebrates 55 years of luxury and glamor

And that's what usually happens walking around Sunset Strip: the shop windows, hotels and corners speak for themselves. If the force accompanies you, it is not far the king of contemporary museums. Los Angeles County Museum of Art ( LACMA ) condenses architectural avant-garde, a display of modern and contemporary art that corroborates the historical value of his collection and the audacity of your exhibitions , in addition to the three! boutiques arranged with design books, stationery material and objects designed for the complacency.

Come on, while we're at it, give yourself another cutting edge binge –Dan Flavin, Peter Alexander, Santiago Serra, Donald Judd– in the extraordinary space of ACE Gallery .

If it's about giving art to the body, it is a pleasure to do it with Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo , owners of Animal : market product, patronizing carnivores , of course, and a staging minimalist.

If you try Suzanne Goin's California recipes at AOC , – yours are also The Hungry Cat **and Tavern** – you will know that the choice of wine pairing was one of the pioneers of the neighborhood - reserve in the Wine Room – and that your garden is one of the more suggestive from the city.

And to give a cane to the late night cravings, a classic (it has locations in London, New York, Barcelona, ​​Miami, Berlin): ** Cecconi ’s ** feeds the legend of him thanks to local hounds on the trail of craft cocktails, the pride of his space and a Italian cuisine of aúpa

LACMA museum los angeles

The LACMA, a symbol of the city

CULVER CITY

Let's put that beverly hills had a little sister, more cultured, more cane , more prone to artistic audacity… Good. That is Culver City .

The flashes of new technologies stand out in the residential district of the Goldwyn–Mayer Subway -today sony pictures s occupies the old studios – and headquarters of the National Public Radio West , celebrated its century of life in 2017 recharged with indie spirit.

Before the landing of the new headquarters of Manzana –valued at a billion of dollars – and the announcement of amazon Following in his footsteps, Culver City is on its way to becoming the Angeleno emblem of the new technologies . Of course, as the center of the design and creativity , this framework of ten square kilometers adds enough merits.

To begin with, with the backbone of the neighborhood: Hotel divides its memoirs, from its opening in 1924, on six floors. Clark Gable or Greta Garbo, as guests, John Wayne and Charlie Chaplin as owners, they spent their days in this historic enclave undergoing a facelift in 2013, where every night the jazz in the grand lobby and the whispers, in the speakeasy Velvet Lounge .

And already in the streets, the neighborhood is everything that is asked of an 'arts district' of the new century. In the same complex of the new Helms Bakery , the bookstore arcane it's a huge warehouse overflowing with fine art publishing, architecture, fashion and design . Insuperable.

what of Hi-Lo Liquor it is more profane, and no less original for that. Talmadge Lowe and Chris Harris guide you in this jungle of liquors of small run and designer spirits. Your neighbors (and friends) Kelly Harris and Paige Apple captain the store Midland Well Chosen Goods , from where you will be unlikely to escape without any of its exquisite pieces.

If you have time, sign up for one of the wine or beer tastings of ** Bar & Garden .** And settle your accounts with your nephews in My Little Sunshine Baby . Steps away, return to adult life at ** Platform **, a fabulous outdoor labyrinth of boutiques . Credit card abuse last scream (sigh) in lingerie in reservoir , men's fashion in Magazine , with an **ecological breakfast in São Acaí **, some signature tacos in the backyard of crazy and, finally, stay to live in lemlem , Aesop either poketo .

HiLo Liquor

Hi-Lo Liquor, designer spirits

SILVER LAKE

To the east hollywood beats another of the foci of the transformation of La La Land . Not in vain, its streets condense the fair dose of charisma that happily coexists with the magic of the creativity and the exuberant energy that the neighborhoods of new expression.

in tune with the millennial Wave, new ones proliferate here indian shrines, bohemian joints and works of street art. sunset boulevard the residents of Silver Lake sway where the feminine aesthetic is a tribute in french fashion and the masculine style extols the insolence of the hip hop.

the environment of Sunset Junction brings together offices of big firms that compete in distinction with boutiques of dream . So it is with the **Retrosuperfuture** glasses, whose acclaimed designs hide the gaze of classy celebrities or with the infallible proposal of the French A.P.C. In ** Lake **, Melissa Lovoy shows off a overwhelming elegance with the latest collections Clare Vivier or Isabel Marant.

To placate the literary Thirst, the independent bookstore SkylightBooks stock limited editions of graphic novel, fanzines and why not, online ebooks . In the competition for perfect breakfast, face the parisian elegance of Stella Coffee in front of the stylish terrace of the cafeteria intelligentsia . He closes the route with a well-deserved tribute, and after fighting for a table, in L&E ​​Oyster Bar where, of course, the queen is the pacific oyster , which she accompanies with her succulent marine cousins.

SANTA MONICA AND VENICE

In little less than five years, the particular parade of skaters, basketball players, hippies, bodybuilders and other spontaneous Ocean Front Walk (aka venice beach ) has subsided, while another avenue was discreetly preparing to take The relay as the epicenter of the Venice March.

playing basketball in los angeles

angel print

The awakening of 'Little Venice' flaunts ostentation –The average price of a home is around million and a half dollars – and a devastating vanguard in Abbot Kinney Boulevard , where he can hipster has left the hippie imprint for the memory.

Shop windows that would fill covers of Kinkfolk , neighbors who greet you by your First name and an almost obscene throng of shrines to the coffee –with the excuse of serving ideals breakfasts, brunches, snacks –: Try the one from the Californian headquarters of **Blue Bottle** or the sweet treats at the ultra-trendy **Intelligentsia**.

Now, if you want to try the ice cream couture , do it in Salt & Straw . The ice cream parlor born in Portland exports both its **artisan cones with unusual flavors**, as well as its long tails.

At lunchtime, the vegans from the neighborhood they run to The Butcher's Daughter , whose sarcastic name hides his sensational vegetarian display. And among the neighborhood favorites: the movie cafe from Gfair ; the French solvency and invoice of Zincque and the **Gjelina** bistro, which feeds the sweet fantasies of Beyonce and Victoria Beckham.

venice los angeles

Venice has the power

Later, both succumb to the charm of The Piece Collective , with its huge range of accessories, jewelry and local designer clothing ; or as Deus Ex Machina , a temple of lovers of biker aesthetic : grab a bomber and empower yourself.

And so far our promises . It's time to choose a goal. The top of the trip. And why not Santa Monica ? In just under 15 minutes from Abbot Kinney Boulevard , is the timeless retreat of a well-to-do community of Los Angeles growers on the run, of Californians from ecological routines and of emerging chefs who defend the ** product of proximity **.

Santa Monica, the great beach landmark Los Angeles, the cradle of the fantasies of several generations, puts us on a platter some california panoramas that fatten vanity and the imaginary traveler in Instagram.

On its cinematic wharf, where the ferris wheel turns –with solar energy– from 1909 , shines the signal that for decades marked the climax of the Route 66 . And for us, who knows, the beginning of another open ending. This is the end. Beautiful friend. This is the end. My only friend, the end.

pink bike on Santa Monica beach

Santa Monica maintains its charm

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