In Foz do Douro, the crew waits in the GT 370 of Invictus Cruises to embark for a large adventure through the waters of the Douro River . Some at the bow, others at the stern, once the passage is located, silence falls so as not to miss anything of the panorama that appears on each shore. In mansions, houses, churches of that Port unique ; They make you want to jump off the ship and get lost in its labyrinthine streets.
on the other shore is Vilanova de Gaia , presided over by the mysterious character and giant logo of the winery, Don Sandeman. The ravelas stationed on both banks have once again had their reason for being as the Don Luis I bridge is undergoing a reconnaissance and the barges fulfill their mission of crossing the river for its inhabitants.
Start the route.
The ship continues its course, and the passengers return to the conversation, while butter croissants, fresh and tropical fruits, cold meats and cheeses are coming to the table accompanied by juices, tea and coffee. During breakfast on board, under the caressing autumn sun, they learn about the Invictus custom-made cruises that sail along the river – they also say that a 46-foot boat, suitable for 12 people, will arrive shortly – to where the traveler wants to arrive, stopping at restaurants, hotels and places worth seeing on a pleasant journey that tries to make the best of the Duoro known.
Two or three days the entire trip lasts along 210 navigable kilometers , supplied with a catering that supplies gourmet products , such as passion fruit jam from the Azores, pata negra from Spain, shrimp empanadas and vegetarian options that travelers – many of them English, American, Canadian or Ukrainian – appreciate for their novelty and quality.
Piragüeros appear at every bend as do the large cruise ships and those riverside beaches full of people who take advantage of the last rays of sun before winter. The boat approaches the Carrapatelo dam. It is a moment as disturbing as it is desired when the yacht enters that aquatic prison of the lock, the water rises little by little, until it fills it and after waiting for the traffic light to turn green, it continues its course in waters that, as if by art of magic, they are at the same height as the previous ones despite their many meters of difference
DUORO41: A RIVERSIDE OASIS
On the banks of the river that gives it its name and its kilometer, Duoro41 appears as a colossus of cement and glass on the edge of the Douro, with its own jetty , in the same place where once the boats that brought wine from the Douro Valley anchored to load the carcaisas (wood) that the women of the town gave them and with which Oporto lit its fireplaces.
Duoro41
Words of welcome and a pleasant tour of the facilities that once were managed by Eurostars, today are run by DHM (Discovery Hotel Management); one more among its 18 hotels. According to its director Duarte Gonçalves da Cunha, who worked for years at Hacienda Zorita in Salamanca, the building has been completely rebuilt. Its decor is minimalist and cozy, with zigzag corridors leading through the eight floors to the restaurant, spa and. river view rooms. as well as one infinity pool for adults with an impressive panoramic view that is even accentuated in that other one, at the top of the hotel.
YES TO LOSE SIGHT OF THE RIVER
During the meal in A Terra Bar & Canteen, the hotel's restaurant , poultry chorizo, egg bread, regional cheeses, a shrimp empanada, and grilled meat and fish – the restaurant's specialty – come to the table, accompanied by a albarinho Solhairo Granit 2020 in which the minerality of its microclimate and an organic Pink Porto Maynard's can be guessed , while the director talks about how the region where the hotel is located is known for the Amarante green wine.
Among his many excursions They recommend the eight kilometer walk over the Paiva River Passages, a tributary of the Douro, and its suspension bridge over the river. They also tell us about the bonanzas of the Douro-Duero river, which in Spain passes through Cigales, Rueda, Ribera del Duero and in Portugal through the Douro Region, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and for its vineyards that produce port wines, douro and green wine… A journey through lands of unique wines and important cultural and gastronomic wealth.
Grilled meats, one of the specialties of Duoro41.
The rest of the day is spent discovering the hotel, playing a game on its large pool table, enjoying the spa pool, its Turkish bath and its Finnish sauna , without for a moment losing sight of the Douro that appears from every corner of the hotel. During dinner at the Raiva restaurant, honor is given to the gastronomic delights of its Chef Darcio Henriques , formed by Joël Robuchon in Paris.
Dárcio, after opening the first Portuguese restaurant in Shanghai, being the executive chef of the Lanesborough Celeste and winning the only Michelin star for a Portuguese chef abroad in 2020/21, decides to return to the land of his culinary beginnings, when he moved between the fruits and vegetables from their family farm. His cuisine is simple and based on the products of the Douro land. “Why, with that privileged gastronomy that we have, would I have to cook dishes from other places?” He asks. Meanwhile, at the table, the sea bass, the rice with oxtail, the Arouquesa beef tenderloin and some delicious quail with lentils, washed down with Portuguese wines; a Turra Pet-Nat or a 20-year-old Blackett port.
WHAT BEHIND THE MOUNTAINS HIDE
The journey by car to the Pinhao Valley, a tributary of the Douro, begins by crossing the Marao tunnel and the Santiago Calatrava viaduct. It passes through Vila Real, the capital of Trasmontes, and through Sabrosa, the birthplace of Magellan. The beauty of the landscape in crescendo until becoming absolutely dreamlike entering that Douro where the shades of autumn vineyards fluctuate between ochres, oranges and sepias. Vines planted with rigorous criteria to obtain the best of their land and the sun that feeds them, form geometric figures that, together with color, paint a work of art on one of the largest and oldest staggered vineyard regions in the world, protected in the s. XVIII by the Marquis of Pombal.
José Azevedo, the excellent guide of Portugal Green Walks, waits in the town of Pinhao to share the history of the Valley. Strolling among his vineyards, the river is bordered. Jose comments how Another beautiful way to get to the vineyards is on the cruise ships that stop at the wineries, and hotels, from Porto or from the Hotel Dour 41 itself on a 4-5 hour journey to Douro passing through three locks. Another possibility is the train whose tracks run parallel to the river, and he recommends not missing that historic little train, once a steam train, which continues to make its way through the valley.
Route from Favaios to Pinhão.
Cellars dot the vineyards, so it's worth stopping at Croft Port for a walk through its vines and gaze at the huge white clay pots in the open air, before heading to the five-star Vintage House Hotel for lunch. The renovated manor house entails an interior with colonial airs and modern touches of exquisite taste. With open doors to a terrace that contemplates the river and the calm navigation of the tourist ravelas, as well as a magnificent panoramic view of the vineyards and a gastronomy that honors its hospitality and of which it is worth highlighting a traditional baked cod , absolutely delicious.
PORT AND THE TEA O'CLOCK
It's time to visit one of the oldest and most respected wineries in the area: Symington Family Estate, one of the 27 estates that make up the Symington family group. the cellar Quinta do Bomfim it guards the principles and the heart of the family because centuries began there. Today, his descendants, now in their fifth generation, make it a rule to spend time working and learning in England, to return to their beloved Douro and play the most suitable role for each one. Such is the case of the winemaker, Charles Symington, Sir Charles , whose estates no longer only produce port, but also Douro appellation wines.
The Bomfim cellars have the necessary winery for port wine and during the tastings it offers, with views of the vineyards, you have the privilege of trying references such as an 11-year-old 2011 vintage, another from 1985 –with nuances of chocolate and coffee–, and a very special 10-year-old towny.
Tasting at Quinta do Bomfim.
After a few glasses of port and to continue with the English tradition, there is Casal do Loivos in the municipality of Alijó, an old blacksmith shop now converted into a cozy accommodation with one of the best views of the valley: ideal for having an English tea with Scones and homemade jam while enjoying a first class view from your garden.
The return to Douro 41 culminates with a private dinner , lit by candles, in its cozy ocher-toned library, fireplace and built-in bookcase full of appetizing books and decorations that give the room its name. Paired perfectly with a Noval Extra Dry White Port, Murganheira CZAR Grand Cuvée Rosé 2015 , a Vallegre Rabigato 2020, or a La Rosa Douro Red Winne 2017 together with some starters of organic asparagus with poached eggs or mushroom consommé with smoked oil , followed by sea bass with cauliflower puree or courgette risotto with goat cheese. To finish, delicious desserts parade like the Teixeira cake with caramelized walnuts or the orange roll with basil and hazelnut ice cream, perfect to end unforgettable days.