The experience of embarking on the Nautical Way
For a few years now, the Pilgrim's Office has officially recognized the boat as a means of obtaining the Compostela provided that more than 100 nautical miles are done, the engine is not used and at least 10 kilometers are done on foot. An original way of doing the Camino in which sport and cultural, natural and gastronomic heritage merge to offer an unforgettable and adrenaline-charged experience.
It was precisely by sea that Teodoro and Atanasio, disciples of the apostle, arrived in Galicia. who, according to tradition, took his body to Padrón in a stone boat going up the Ulla River. In addition, there were many pilgrims from northern Europe who opted for the boat to set sail for Santiago, so it is not surprising that the candle-shaped icon has been incorporated into the pilgrim's credential.
With these historical precedents we do not doubt it for a second. We leave the stick to lower sails, get hold of the rudder and learn some basic notions of navigation captained by Ángela Pumariega and her exclusively female crew in an edition organized by Sail the Way to honor women in the maritime sector and toast to equality.
Angela Pumariega
SAIL THE WAY WITH SAIL THE WAY
Sail the Way is the initiative of North Marinas, association of nautical companies from the north of Spain that, for the last six years, has been organizing this particular annual pilgrimage of 16 days touring the entire Cantabrian coast and part of the Atlantic. This Maritime Path has the support of the National Association of Nautical Companies (Anen), Turespaña, Portos de Galicia or Repsol, among others, and It values nautical tourism in Spain linked to a highly relevant historical event.
The idea was conceived by Federico Fernández-Trapa, Secretary General of North Marinas, who has managed up to 30 boats from La Rochelle, in France. This year, on the other hand, due to the restrictions caused by the pandemic, the route began in Hondarribia and there were only two registered, accompanied, yes, by others in the different sections of the route.
“For me it was very stimulating to be in command of so many ships, especially in departures and arrivals at port”, tells Traveler.es Federico. “This year, despite not being that many, I am very proud of the great reception we have had and of having been able to count on Ángela”.
16 days touring the entire Cantabrian coast and part of the Atlantic
It was on June 4 when the Kais and Barbola sailboats began their route, stopping in Bermeo, Getxo, Santander, Gijón and Ribadeo, already in Galicia, at which point we joined them to accompany them and share with them the joy of arriving in Santiago after seven stages and a final stretch of 25 kilometers on foot, 15 days after their departure in Hondarribia.
We cross the waters of the Bay of Biscay, the busy Atlantic and the Galician estuaries, where you can navigate at any time of the year. "Nautical tourism in the estuaries is less seasonal" says Alba Taladrid, head of the Communication and External Relations Unit of Portos de Galicia. “It is a strategic point to explore Galicia, visit little villages and uncrowded nature” she adds. At the end of the day, it is what you are looking for on the Camino de Santiago.
Those who wish to make the journey in future editions can register on the Navega el Camino website, both to make it complete and to join only in some section. To do this, it is not necessary to have a boat, it is possible to rent one or join the organization's fixed crew. Navigating individually at other times of the year is possible through several companies that offer this official route: Altavela, Náutica Galea, Vientoaparente, Marmitako Sailing…
Leaving Ribadeo
PILGRIMS OF THE SEA
"Woman and the Sea" is the motto of this sixth edition in which the flagship, coinciding with the Jacobean Year, was captained by Olympic champion Angela Pumariega, winner of the gold of the London games in the Elliott class together with Sofia Toro and Tamara Echegoyen.
On this journey from Compostela, Ángela was accompanied by a female crew that got on and off the Kais at different stages Giving visibility to women who occupy professions in the development of the maritime sector (recycling of marine litter, oceanographers, maritime safety inspectors, naval engineers, ...) in order to favor synergies on the road to equality.
A willing crew that was not intimidated by the rough sea, supporting the skilful maneuvers of the captain at all times. “These are incredible days in which I am learning a lot from Ángela”, Said the head of communication at Sail the Way, Rocío Ibarra, excitedly in one of our shared stages.
"La Mujer y el Mar" is the motto of this sixth edition of 'Navega el Camino'
For Alexandra and Paula Serra, Portuguese sisters who joined the route in Galicia, the pilgrimage was intended to honor their mother. "She just passed away and we know she would have loved to be here." Hugs, tears. The Way is also this.
“Adapting to the circumstances of life is what I like about sailing”, Angela states. “If candles have to be raised, they are raised, if they are no longer needed, they are lowered”.
Doing the Maritime Way is very special for her, “before the games we were training in Villagarcía de Arousa, and we went to Santiago to ask for our classification. But not only do we qualify, but we got the gold medal, so coming back now is like closing a cycle”, said the Olympic medalist.
“Good bow, good Road!”
THE EXPERIENCE OF EMBARKING ON THE NAUTICAL WAY
A suitcase loaded with sportswear, a raincoat to face inclement weather and all kinds of seasickness pills. I join Sail the Way in the port of Ribadeo and my nerves weigh more than my suitcase.
rise to a wave on land, the work of Díaz y Díaz architects, before sailing thousands in the sea, I take the first photo of rigor. The sculpture confirms that this is one of the 30 Galician ports in which we can stamp the pilgrim's credential to get the most seafaring Compostela. “Good bow, good Road!” We set sail!
“Here the calluses do not come out on the feet, but on the hands” , assures Federico hoisting the sails of the Barbola as we leave behind the Puente de los Santos bridge, which links Asturias with Galicia. And so it is, In this tourist and sports route there is no lack of effort, self-improvement and camaraderie to reach the destination.
The first stages are long, up to nine hours in which, in addition to enjoying the extraordinary Galician coast, you also have to deal with dizziness, thick fog, sudden changes in weather and waves of up to four meters. It is the small sacrifice that it takes to win the favor of the apostle. Who said that doing the Camino was easy?
The force of the waves empties us to fill us again with infinite thoughts
Before the immense mass of water, we dwarf. To the beat of the wind, the waves rock us along the Bay of Biscay to shake us in the Atlantic. The sails complete that melody that is the sea and that, when it is calm, Tai González, Federico's cousin, supports with his guitar. The Path of the Sea becomes the soundtrack of the adventure. It is the song that Tai has composed to accompany the maritime pilgrimage.
The force of the waves empties us to fill us again with infinite thoughts. So many hours on board go a long way. Contemplation, introspection, calm. By boat it is also possible to experience that part of the Camino.
The sessions are combined with shore excursions guided, with great dedication, by Ruben Araúxo, manager of the EasyGalicia agency: Fuciño do Porco, Estaca de Bares, the Monte Branco viewpoint, Santa Cruz de Oleiros, the Finisterre lighthouse, the Baroña fort, the Axeitos dolmen, the Cortegada island... Places that offer us a different perspective than the one we get from the sea so that we can take with us the most complete vision of Galicia.
After stamping the credential and exploring the surroundings of each port, it's time to taste the wonderful and forceful Galician cuisine, and return to the sailboat to sleep in a small cabin. Making the boat home intensifies the Camino experience.
Anchoring in front of the Area beach
THE SPECTACULARITY OF THE GALICIAN COAST FROM THE SAILBOAT
One of the opportunities that this experience gives is to appreciate the change of landscapes between the Cantabrian coast and the Costa da Morte, in the Atlantic, to make way for the estuaries , peaceful but full of life. Because the sea leaves images that magnify the wildest and most solitary charms of Galicia, a land that lives in another time, and not exactly in the past. Time that gets tangled up in the rafts of the Arousa estuary to impose its own rhythm.
In the first stage, Rinlo, a small town with colorful fishermen's houses and an old whaling port, It is a delicious stop to try the arroz caldoso in one of the oldest brotherhoods in Spain. They succeed the small municipality Las Catedrales beach, Burela – the most important port for bonito fishing – and Area beach, where we anchored in front of an extensive blond sandbank.
The Three Gables emerging from the deep sea
The second stage is the longest and also the busiest. Viveiro-Sada in more than nine hours in which we passed through Cape Ortegal, where the Bay of Biscay and the Atlantic merge. We admire the highest cliffs in continental Europe on one side and, on the other, the Three Gables emerging from the deep sea.
Is about the oldest rocks in the Iberian Peninsula and almost in the world, so geologists believe that at some point this could be the center of the Earth. An intimidating landscape of great geological interest from which the best barnacles come out.
Cape Ortegal
The Atlantic welcomes us between clouds that fill infinity with emptiness. Raging Atlantic that first lulls you to sleep and then makes you dizzy with a kind of hangover that is only controlled in the cabin bed. I spend more than half of the route there, I, who am never one to get dizzy. When I wake up, the sun has risen and we are docking at the port of Sada.
The journey from Sada to A Coruña on the third day takes two hours, a short time to enjoy the best weather of the journey. Along the way we see the Betanzos estuary and the coast of Dexo.
A Coruña is followed by Muxía, and Muxía, Muros on the fifth day of sailing. In this mysterious stage I leave the Barbola to embark with the girls on the Kais. In Muxía, the Touriñán lighthouse bids us farewell. Twice a year, this site becomes the last shadow line of sunset in continental Europe.
Passing through Finisterre I make a wish. The end of the world for the Romans and the end of the Way for many, must be magical. And it is that it imposes sailing along the Costa da Morte knowing the number of shipwrecks that have kept the name of this coastline alive.
Kai's Crew
Dunes of Corrubedo, Pobra do Caramiñal, Boiro, Cabo de Cruz… On the seventh day we docked at Villa Garcia de Arousa , the last seaport of the journey. From there We continue to Padrón through the waters of the Ulla river. It is curious to follow that river Way of the Cross made up of 17 stone crosses that guard both banks of the river.
The last 25 kilometers run on foot until culminating in front of the cathedral of Santiago where all the sensations contained during the last week are scattered.
In the Pilgrim's Office We waited in line reviewing the stamps stamped on the credential and remembering their moments. Compostela in hand, we headed to the impressive Hostal de los Reyes Católicos, converted into a Parador, where we stayed last night.
Cruises on the Ulla River
To get lost in the corridors and rooms of the old pilgrim hospital is to continue the journey, but to the past. In the room, the first thing I do is open the window to contemplate the cathedral in the middle of the night, the Camino makes more sense than ever.
As much as I had documented and prepared myself for this experience, nothing has happened according to the images that I had formulated in my head: more waves than expected, more intoxicating emotion, new friendships, moments of feeling almighty and a more beautiful Galicia if possible.
Breathtaking capes, playful dolphins, steep cliffs, paradisiacal beaches and secluded islands in my canopy bed.