Tarragona: balcony of the Mediterranean
When Scipio set his sights on a hill near the Mare Nostrum for his troops to rest for the winter, it never crossed his mind that he was about to lay the foundation stone of what would be the second most important city of the Roman Empire . A century and a half later, it had already created a city that had everything necessary to live well according to Roman canons: a strategic port, a great cultural offer, a mild climate, beaches with warm waters and a varied and quality food and wine culture.
As is often the case, the jet set of the time did not take long to discover the city that Julius Caesar proclaimed Iulia Urbs Triumphalis Tarraconensis . Fortunately, what was then the capital of Hispania Citerior can boast of having kept intact everything that the Roman emperors held in high esteem. Just like the Romans in their day, the people of Tarragona are proud of their city . There are plenty of reasons.
I see it as I wander down the Rambla Nova , one of its main arteries, framed by trees, terraces and the occasional monument, culminating in the so-called Balcony of the Mediterranean, with its characteristic wrought iron railing. It is tradition to go to this privileged viewpoint on Miracle beach to touch ferro (touch iron) and thus attract good luck. On the left, with the Mediterranean as a backdrop, the roman amphitheater is outlined , where gladiators risked their lives fighting hungry lions and those sentenced to death saw sunlight for the last time.
Tarragona amphitheater, the taste of Rome
Today, in addition to being one of the fourteen points that make up the Tarragona archaeological complex, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, It is one of the most demanded locations for the filming of action movies and perfume commercials. . But it is not the only one. Tarragona has so many photogenic points that only last year It was the scene of more than one hundred audiovisual productions . Among them, of course, the rest of its ruins. Most are concentrated in the Part Alta (as the old town is popularly known), but others are further away, such as the Devil's Bridge (devil's bridge), part of one of the aqueducts that supplied the city with water and which is preserved in perfect condition.
The Part Alta has an ideal size to be explored on foot. I find archaeological remains on every corner and it is easy for me to get used to the idea that I am facing a scale replica of the Rome of the time: with a studied urban planning and framed by walls, of which today hardly remains little more than a kilometer – although it seems that it was more than enough for Bernardo Ríos to dedicate a song to them, 'Tarragona Walls' –.
Devil's Bridge
The Provincial Forum, the Local Forum, the Archaeological Walk, the circus with its capçalera –final curve of the chariot races...– ruins follow one another. Even the cathedral is built on what was the Roman temple dedicated to Emperor Augustus although there are no visible traces of it. I enter the temple from the steps that lead to the Plaza de la Seu and the building slowly appears before my eyes, majestic, unfolding its full magnitude with each step. The visit is worth it.
Very close to here, **Ana and Quintín offer in their restaurant AQ ** (a tasting menu: €50, VAT and drink separately) in which flavor, tradition and seasonality prevail, and which emphasizes the use of the native products, including their wines, with D. O. After the Roman buildings, the beaches are the preferred setting of film directors, and above all, of locals and travelers . Very close to the city, Tarragona's Playa Larga, with the idyllic Castle of Tamarit on a promontory, in the background, it is an unbeatable place to relax with the family.
Flavors of Tarragona
I'm not going to lie down in the sun like a lizard, so I take the opportunity to make a route along a section of the old coastal path, which takes me in just two hours from the Playa Larga to Tamarit, passing through steep cliffs, Mediterranean vegetation and several coquettish coves, in which I can't resist taking a dip . It doesn't matter that he didn't bring a swimsuit; here nudism is fashionable, in places like Cala Fonda (also known as Waikiki ) or lowercase Cala Becs.
In the past this coastal path was used by the smugglers who kept the merchandise in Altafulla. To scare away potential witnesses to their criminal activities, they themselves spread the popular belief that here the witches roamed freely . The marketing campaign worked so well for them that Altafulla remained practically intact , with a population that even today does not exceed 5,000 inhabitants. Many of them still keep the clay pots on the fireplaces in case one of them decides to prepare a potion at midnight.
With sorceresses or without them, the truth is that the Vila Closa (the old town) has something enigmatic . When strolling through its narrow cobbled streets, with stately colored houses, emblazoned portals, remains of the wall and, at the top, dominating everything, the castle of Tamarit, I feel like time has stopped. This is a genuine summer town, in the purest style of the series Blue summer. Here people come to rest, relax and enjoy the gastronomy.
Infected by this spirit, at sunset I approach the promenade Sea botigues, where at the foot of the beach the old fishermen's houses –some converted into restaurants, others into summer residences– are filled with candles and dim lights that invite you to enjoy the tranquility, the breeze and the murmur of the sea. The Mediterranean.
* This article is published in the Condé Nast Traveler magazine for October number 77. This issue is available in its digital version for iPad in the iTunes AppStore, and in the digital version for PC, Mac, Smartphone and iPad in the virtual newsstand by Zinio (on Smartphone devices: Android, PC/Mac, Win8, WebOS, Rim, iPad) . Also, you can find us on Google Play Newsstand.
Els Muntanyans Beach