Anchovies in Pikachos
Cadiz is its people. And its people are Cádiz . I'm talking about our Cádiz, of course —Puerta de Tierra pa'dentro; because beyond there are only beaches (exceptional, yes, but “only” they are beaches) tourism, queues, brothers-in-law in Conil, hippies in Caños de Meca (that is to say; there are no more hippies), beer, selfie sticks and common places . I mean, none of the things that (really) matter.
Cádiz is also its potholes, its fried foods and its muffins . Its chirigotas, its chamomiles or its one hundred and twenty-six viewpoints from which the sky still looks at us delicately. And it is that look what sky.
But here we have come to eat—and to drink. So let's go with my essential corners. Rancid Cadiz. Essential Cadiz; the Cádiz we need.
THE SURPRISE TAVERN
A necessary novelty in Cádiz, by the hand of Juan Carlos Borrell and Maria José. High bar, marble tables and barrels from the Delgado Zuleta winery in Sanlúcar; La Sorpresa (by the way, three steps from the Brim, the best cafeteria in Spain) takes some things from our beloved Taberna La Manzanilla and incorporates a fabulous menu that tour to the wild bluefin tuna from Almadraba de Barbate . Three plates: wild tuna in sashimi, in carpaccio and in tartare —I prefer the latter, after trying all three. eye also to the salted mojama and the fantastic Gilda . A necessary novelty, I say; because it relaxes the palate between so much fish, so much shrimp omelette and so much marinated dogfish.
Surprise Tartare
BAR ANTONIO EL PALILLO
Be careful not to confuse it with El Palillo in front of El Faro, a place that until two years ago was run by our Antonio Paúl “El Palillo”. So he moved his bar and his good work to Calle La Palma, 4; in front of the Church of Our Lady of La Palma. Me I recommend the bar , and get carried away by the masterful hand of Antonio with the frying (the best in Cádiz, along with El Adobo) - dogfish, safío, cuttlefish or mako shark ; but above all the dishes: its wonderful brunette in marinade, ten . The fish, by the way, comes directly from "ranas" (divers) from Puntales, fishermen sons of fishermen from rancid Cádiz that we love so much.
Brunette by Antonio El Palillo
THE CHURROS OF "LA GUAPA"
Sometimes (few, be careful) you have to stick with clichés. One of those common places as soon as you set foot in Cádiz-Cádiz is that you cannot go back without trying the churros from “La Guapa” —well, well: it's true. Post older than the tana, its origin dates back to the end of the 19th century and there it continues, in front of the Mercado de Abastos. Today it is run by José Antonio Luna Velasco, who is pure cai (here is the original story of Carmen “La Guapa”); well, the churros are wonderful, They cost €1 a bag for one and you can have them in the cafeteria across the street. No problem.
The churros of “La Guapa”
PIKACHOS BEACH BAR
A slight exception to this very purist selection: Pikachos is located beyond the walls of Puerta de Tierra (and you never have to leave!) ; but has its explanation —The wonderful walk (it takes ten minutes) along the Campo Sur avenue, after the Cadiz Cathedral to the Santa Maria del Mar beach: it is perhaps one of the essential views of La Tacita de Plata. But let's go to the table: the beach bar is run by Iván, a boy with curiosity and hand with the product (in the kitchen: Antonio Caramé), I especially liked the sarmorejo, the fried anchovies and the mackerel with periñaca. My advice? Ask for table sixteen, you'll thank me.
BODEGUITA THE ADOBO
To the point: my essential. “The best restaurant in Andalusia!” I think I've ever yelled (a lot of too many amontillados) up high, challenging the world and (my admirer) Ángel León. Marinated dogfish, acedías, nettles, sea bream, belly or that snapper that the “Carapalo” (Paco's father, owner and cook) brings every morning. The room is the kingdom of Carlos, “The Pitu Roca of the Bay” and in the kitchen who rules is the great Paco, who has already promised me to close Rosario Street if one day I get married. If I do, the banquet will be this: nettles and potatoes aliñás in El Adobo.
Paco, the genius of El Adobo
THE BAR OF THE LIGHTHOUSE
I have my pluses and minuses with El Faro. It is the least Cadiz of the Barrio de la Viña, perhaps it is the fault of the audience (perhaps not, without a doubt) however to César what belongs to César: the product —best at the bar— is exceptional and if they have the day (which not always) they embroider it . the salad, the shrimp omelette , the sea urchin, the shrimps or the aliñás potatoes are from the book.
BUTTER HOUSE
The Barrio de la Viña is the quintessence of Cádiz. It's hard to believe, but you can't imagine the number of “vine growers” who have never left La Viña —and (as they say there) for what? Well, Casa Manteca is the ground zero of La Viña; Corralon of the Cars , corner with San Félix, where every afternoon the worst of each house gathers around a bar and three barrels. Here (you will see) the least is the pittance, but what special cracklings (on butcher paper) what belly with tomato and what art in every corner of the temple of great sage “Pepe” Manteca.
The ground zero of the Viña neighborhood
THE CORRALÓN OF THE VINEYARD
The Corralón de la Viña, for the uninitiated, at first glance may well seem one more den . In fact, it is nothing more than a chicken rotisserie; Tiny and on the stale side. But it is here (take note) the best potato chips the above signer has ever tasted are fried , and the rest of the gastronomic offer (‘chicken sandwich’, ball point) is so primary that how can we not fall in love. “A chicken sandwich and some potatoes, pisha”.
PRIM BAR
We already said it, but every time I come back I have to rub my eyes because I don't believe it. It is not possible that such a place (yet) exists: the most authentic coffee shop I have ever visited. From a distance, too. coffee is drunk standing up . There are no chairs, there are no croissants, there is no bread, there is no air conditioning (there is a window), there is no press, there are no cute cups (rather the Duralex glasses from the bar of all life) and yet, you see what things, there is no coffee more coffee than Bar Prim. Immense Paco Alvarez. Brim is necessary.
Brim is necessary
**There is more (in Cádiz, there is always more) **: the muffins at the Levante café, the ice creams at 'Los Italianos' on Calle Ancha, the churros at 'La Guapa' on the Plaza de las Flores, the amontillado at (my home) the Tavern in Feduchy or, what the hell, a bottle of manzanilla and a cheese board at sunset, in front of La Caleta. That was also what gastronomy was about, don't you think?
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* This article was originally published on 04.09.2015 and has been updated.