The Ribera del Duero in Burgos hides a small medieval town through which kings and great dynasties passed
It is said to be one of the most beautiful villages in Burgos, and reasons are not lacking. And it is that when we escape through the province of Burgos we already know that our trip will be marked by the trail of medieval towns that roared during the Reconquest, a land of strong gastronomy and good wine that has managed to face the inclemencies of time and history to preserve its heritage in an enviable state.
THE STRONG SQUARE
Penaranda de Duero is a medieval village that hides many treasures on its cobblestones. Since 1931 its old town has been a Historic-Artistic Site and despite the fact that the route to visit this medieval town is relatively short, the history that Peñaranda de Duero keeps is very significant.
Land of nobles, suckling lamb and good wine
It is known that Peñaranda de Duero was an enclave of some interest for its situation in a very valuable area of the Duero river. Around the 10th century it would be taken from the Muslims in the Reconquest and would become what is called 'fortress', depending initially on Clunia, in the south of the province of Burgos.
With King Alfonso XI the town passed into the hands of the House of the Avellanedas, true promoter of cultural flourishing and that would turn the city into a dukedom which still remains as such to this day.
ROADMAP
Touring this beautiful town of Burgos is quick and easy. Also, the Tourist Office of Peñaranda de Duero offers guided tours so as not to miss any details. Going on your own is always a good option, so we have set out a roadmap for you the obligatory stops:
1. Castle and wall: despite the current castle corresponds to the end of the 14th century and the beginning of the 15th century, It was built on the original from the 10th century as a Christian watch fortress in the Reconquest. It is listed as one of the best preserved castles in the province of Burgos, although they say that it was uninhabited for a long time, possibly remaining its use as a gunsmith.
From its Torre del Homenaje, the world at your feet
It is currently headquarters of the Castles Interpretation Center. The three floors of the Tribute Tower lead to a magnificent view of the villa and surroundings. Its state of preservation makes it almost unbelievable that we are between masonry walls from the 15th century. Admission is not free and, after your visit, it is well worth it tour the remains of the wall until you reach the Puerta de las Monjas.
2.Palace of Avellaneda: is the other main dish of the town's heritage and one of the most important Renaissance buildings for private use in our country. Also known as the Palace of the Counts of Miranda, It is located in the Plaza Mayor and exhibits a beautiful plateresque doorway. Inside we find incredible rooms with Mudejar and Plateresque motifs, proof of the greatness of those who owned the building.
3.Old Town: walking through the old town is a real pleasure. Like a good medieval Castilian town, the streets reveal the antiquity of century-old houses, some of them emblazoned with wooden balconies who have seen the years pass as if they were minutes.
You can start from the Plaza Mayor (or Plaza Ducal), where an old roll of justice from the end of the 15th century that surely served in his Picota day. The fact that justice was imparted denotes the importance that Peñaranda had in the past. Winding through the alleys we can find the oldest pharmacy in Spain. Founded in the 18th century, it houses various rooms with a laboratory and a garden of medicinal plants between them.
The Plaza Mayor or Plaza Ducal with the scroll of justice from the end of the 15th century
4. Collegiate Church of Santa Ana: you don't have to leave the square to enter this imposing baroque temple that was completed in the 17th century and whose entrance has marble steps brought from Naples. the awesome Neoclassical altarpiece is the work of Ventura Rodríguez and in the different chapels you can see the relic collection that the counts brought from all the trips made. Of course, the entrance is not free either.
WINE, CHEESE AND LAMB
We are in the Ribera del Duero, a land of wines and wood ovens where the slaughter has a special meaning. Here you come to eat sitting down and enjoy long after-meals.
There is no wine without blood sausage from Burgos, which is religion here and they know that well in The Mansion (Cava, 2), a place to make a first stop.
Palacio de Avellaneda, one of the most important Renaissance buildings for private use in our country
Don Miguel's Shelter (Botica, 21) is possibly the best option for those looking for an all-in-one. It is no longer just that they have a shock of scandal, but the kitchen is homemade and unceremoniously, with menu prices for all pockets and with the possibility of taste local wines. Here there is cheeks, stews and spoon dishes the usual ones, with a grandma flavor. And it's all in one because you have the possibility of affordable accommodation.
The other great option is in the Ducal Inn (Plaza Mayor, 1), a place where you can eat seated overlooking the square. In the Posada Ducal they pay homage to pickles and suckling lamb chops that are accompanied by a great string of homemade desserts of which we recommend without a doubt the fried milk.
It is not the only place to end the day with a drink in the open air, the alley (Ratchet, 2) offers on its terrace beautiful views of the castle for those who want to finish with a distillate.
DID YOU KNOW...?
Currently, the Duchy of Peñaranda de Duero is related to the House of Alba. The current Duke of Peñaranda de Duero is Jacobo Hernando Fitz-James Stuart y Gomez, title that he holds since 1971 among many other titles.
In this area The so-called grandfather's dessert is very typical. Something as simple as Burgos cheese with native honey. Simple, but delicious.
The streets reveal the age of centuries-old houses
The Palace of the Counts of Miranda also passed through the hands of the House of Alba when Carmen Josefa de Zúñiga died without descendants. At the beginning of the 20th century it was declared a National Monument but there were those who wanted to dismantle it. Today, belongs to the state and a series of reforms have been carried out since the middle of the last century that have allowed its conservation.
Wine has marked the history of Peñaranda. Formerly in almost all the houses there were small wineries and some maintain the tradition. Discovering the wine tourism of Peñaranda de Duero is to make a complete trip.