Garachico, the corner of Tenerife where time stood still
There was a day when Garachico He had no choice but to be reborn from its ashes. And this, we clarify, we mean it in the most literal sense.
Spring was running 1706 and the town lived one of its most exultant times: it had the most important port of the entire island, a roadstead where those ships that ventured to cross the seas to exotic and distant destinations stopped. Let's say, Africa or America.
But suddenly the earth exploded. The Trevejo volcano did its thing and in the blink of an eye the town was burned, covered by an immense mantle of lava that made it almost completely disappear.
However, if fate has taught this little corner of Tenerife something -because beware, the town has been hit by storms, fires, plague epidemics and even one plague of locusts throughout its history - is that, when you fall, you must get back up. And Garachico, an expert in “rebirths”, did it.
Garachico, the corner of Tenerife where time stood still
To understand it, and also to feel in communion with that virulence with which nature was in charge of outlining the town that morning in 1706, we do not hesitate: we jumped headfirst into its coastline . We'll have to start exploring it somewhere, right?
In it, and despite the fact that this little corner of the north of Tenerife does not stand out for receiving large masses of tourism, it is easy to run into several groups of bathers willing to enjoy what nature has given to the enclave: the spectacular pools of El Caleton.
And it is that the lava of that volcano decided to play, contour and end up solidifying giving capricious shapes to some fascinating natural pools that now, 300 years later, make up one of the most important tourist attractions in Garachico. In front of them, in the middle of the sea, the imposing Roque de Garachico Natural Monument : a true symbol of the locality.
The spectacular ponds of El Caletón
Here we are not going to beat around the bush: a bath is one of the greatest pleasures we can give ourselves. So, with the bathing suit on and under the protection of the island microclimate that is enjoyed in these parts, we jump, swim, climb and return to jump into the cold waters of the Atlantic until the body tells us "enough" by saturation. -Ahem... Is that perhaps that can happen?-.
An aside! Right here, facing the sea, King Philip II ordered the construction of the San Miguel Fortress Castle in 1575 to defend against possible pirate attacks. A construction that has managed to survive, standing up to all kinds of catastrophes.
A few meters further, from the hell breakwater , a curious sculpture by the Japanese artist Kan Yasuda brings inspiration to the area while the occasional teenager becomes the center of attention by jumping into the sea, which intrepid trampoline jumper from the top of the platform.
A small cove of black sand unfolds in the curve that leads to the Emigrant's Viewpoint –which, by the way, offers incredible views of Garachico- and becomes a paradise for those who flee from the rocks.
Aerial view of the Mirador del Emigrante
A GLORIOUS PAST
Despite being coastal, the slopes in Garachico are counted by dozens. Here it is time to pull the buttocks and legs to endlessly going down and up steep streets with cobbled floors that make us mentally go back to time immemorial.
Because that is the best way to enjoy Garachico: strolling, touring every corner without haste . Sensing the life that takes place on the other side of the curtains that sway, delicately, by the sea breeze. Letting us be infected by the calm and quiet rhythm with which they take life around here.
All around us, the traditional architecture of the archipelago shines in all its splendor. They are the same structures and forms that would end up moving to the other side of the immense ocean. Those that, when we tour America, we describe as “ colonial style ”. The original, the genuine, is found in these parts.
Castle of San Miguel
Now those houses robust facades and pastel colors where the wealthiest families once lived, have been converted into hotels, restaurants and shops. What The House of the Fifth Red , for example, which with its exterior facade painted in dark salmon is Instagram meat. In the 16th century it was the home of the first Marquis of the Quinta Roja, later a lodging for the Franciscan nuns and, currently, a country hotel.
Something similar happened with the House of the Pontes , the founding family of Garachico, which also ended up being rehabilitated as a hotel. Or with the Palace House of the Counts of La Gomera , popularly called the Stone house . Built between the 16th and 17th centuries, this was one of those that best resisted the fierceness of the volcano, although part of it had to be rebuilt as well.
It is in one of those charming-looking buildings that you find Gaspar House , just behind the city's old football stadium -today a public car park-, and the ideal place to start tasting what is cooked in the Garachiquense stoves.
And here we must not skimp: you come to Casa Gaspar to eat without hesitation . Good product, better elaborations, rich traditional recipes and excellent attention. Recommendations? Their stuffed baby squid, their grilled limpets and their croquettes are something from another galaxy.
The dessert -or the whim, let's call it that- we enjoy it in the Grandfather ice cream parlor , where they make homemade ice cream in a variety of the most surprising flavors. And that they take away the dance!
OF RELIGION GOES THE THING
Garachiquense historical heritage is rich in many things, but the churches are the most: There are up to 20 different ones scattered around this small municipality.
We stay with the Mother Church of Santa Ana , a jewel of the sixteenth century. Although it had to be practically rebuilt after the explosion of the volcano, it managed to recover the splendor of its beginnings. Inside, a couple of things to look at: the image of the Christ of Mercy , arrived from Mexico, and the baptismal font, made of marble in the 17th century.
A sign next to the door of the church warns us that Numen Creative Shop and Studio are two steps away, an oasis in the heart of the historic center –and a paradise for shopping lovers-. This small shop is only small in size: inside there is room for original products made exclusively by artists from the islands. Jewellery, prints, clothes, figures... Impossible to leave empty handed!
The curious sculpture of the Japanese artist Kan Yasuda in Garachico
A coffee can fall, why not, in the very liberty square . And here we fall in love with the outdoor kiosk-picnic area that governs the space. With its tables and chairs spread out in the square, We can't think of a better place to take the pulse of the town.
But we must continue investigating, that the religious heritage of Garachico goes a long way. And it's time to stop in front of the white walls of the Franciscan Conceptionist Convent , home to cloistered nuns since the mid-17th century. Although it was another convent, the Dominic of Santo Domingo , the only one who managed to escape the clutches of that raging volcano: its beautiful mustard facade and its seven balconies remain as they did in the past , and today they house a nursing home, a contemporary art museum and the municipal auditorium.
Before going to rest, more history: the one that remains despite time and the ravages of nature in the Land Gate Park . There, among the lushness of tropical plants and palm trees that seem to want to engulf us, is the mythical stone door that symbolized the entrance to the old port of Garachico in the 16th century.
Land Gate Park
THE EARTHLY PARADISE IS IN GARACHICO
To stay, we move a little away from the urban center of Garachico: the Casamarilla Rural Estate, in Los Silos, awaits us. And here we find a parallel universe in which we feel the firmness of having gone back many years ago: this 19th century estate is an absolute marvel.
At that time it was the home of the British engineer Mr Interian , who from there ran a neighboring sugar factory. Today, a total of 7 rooms , each decorated in its own style, welcome those seeking an oasis in the world. Of course: all retain their original walls and structure.
Surrounded by immense fields of banana trees, with the sea as a backdrop, Sleeping in this Eden of tranquility makes you wish with all your might for the days to be longer. May the experience never end. Something that is accentuated even more while having a delicious tea in one of its rooms, -all dressed with period furniture, by the way-, while enjoying the exquisite breakfast in its interior patio, or, why not, enjoy a swim in the pool.
The perfect place to confirm that, indeed, in this corner of the Canary Islands, time stopped long ago.
The earthly paradise of Garachico