Eat, drink, sleep: Port for enjoyment
We assume it: we are truly obsessed with worldly pleasures. Of the good wines, of the rich gastronomy and of course from the beautiful places in which to rest from so much joy. That is why we have decided to head for Porto, a city whose name is enough to make our souls enjoy jump, shout and kick for joy like Carlton Banks dancing to the rhythm of Tom Jones.
Because yes, dear friend. It is very good to travel to this Portuguese city to fall in love with its alleys s full of tiles, stroll through Ribeira or admire the orange roofs from the top of the Clerigos Tower.
But let's be honest. Isn't it much better if all those surprises come with other delicacies? We do not blink in declaring a resounding YES.
THE PLEASURE OF REST
And the first thing, to give ourselves body and soul to delight, is to let go of ballast. So we go to the number 74 of Largo São Domingos , where it is located Armazém Luxury Housing , our home from now on. Here the exquisite treatment It is the first thing that we highlight, but of course, not the only thing.
To begin with, the exclusivity is given by its entrance: to be able to access the hall you have to ring the bell . After opening the door for us in person, and after offering us water with lemon and mint or one of the exquisite homemade sweets that they prepare daily, the time will come to discover the space.
Armazém Luxury Housing
Armazém is one of those places that smell of history in every inch. What during the nineteenth century was a iron warehouse in the historic center of Porto , today, and thanks to the initiative of Fernanda Gramaxo , the owner of it, has been transformed into a whole world full of magic in which to live unforgettable experiences.
She, who dedicated her whole life as a teacher to caring for children and showing them the way forward, now does the same with adults, leading them by the hand towards absolute happiness during the time they spend in their domains.
In Armazém the building itself is already a work of art. Iron and wood remain, as if wanting to flaunt its industrial past, but combined with such elegant details that we will want to stay forever to live within its walls.
Their nine rooms exude personality, each in its own way, in the same way as its apartments, located just a few numbers beyond the mythical Rua das Flores . There, in that other building -formerly a coffee factory-, there is also the study of Ricardo Vieri a, Armazém's life coach, with whom all clients can book, if they wish, an individual or collective class in which to investigate the interior of oneself.
The experience of staying in Armazém reaches its climax when, first thing in the morning, we go down to the basement . An open space in which every detail is there because it should be. And yes, here we leave time for the pleasure of eating: our breakfast can vary between scrambled, poached or fried eggs, countless cheeses and cured meats, breads, dairy products, fruits and homemade sweets. Is there a better way to start the day?
Breakfast at Armazém Luxury Housing
THE PLEASURE OF DRINKING
We decided to fall asleep before one of the greatest pleasures that can be enjoyed in Porto. Its wines are a sign of identity and a true benchmark throughout the globe.
Trying to understand its success we crossed the bridge of Dom Luis I in the direction of Vila Nova de Gaia, where the most historic and well-known wineries await us. The first stop we make it in Croft , the oldest in Porto: was founded in 1588, neither more nor less.
In the warmth of a fireplace we tasted the first of the wines. This is one of his novelties, Croft Pink : the first rosé made in Porto. He enters with amazing ease and accompanies us while we make time for the start of our guided tour.
Maria introduces herself after 10 minutes as our cicerone and she takes us by the hand through the history of this legendary winery.
Croft
a walk between huge barrels and huge barrels reveals the history of Croft, whose grapes, grown in the Duero Valley, are aged here due to its optimal climate.
We learn the technical -and basic- differences between a Tawny and a Ruby. Smells, flavors and colors that we write down mentally and that make us almost experts after a 40-minute visit. At the end, the fireplace returns to claim us with three more wines to taste.
Not too far away, a couple of streets uphill, is august's , a family winery founded in 1977, where three generations have been working hard to offer the most exquisite wines.
We go through its different premises to finish, once again, tasting its tasty elixir in the tasting room. If you have checked luggage, the option of taking a bottle home will be an absolute success.
Mythical wineries will appear in our path: Sandeman , Taylor s either calem It is also worth a stop. But not only in them you can learn and savor a good port wine . Just by walking the streets of the city we can see: the businesses dedicated to this treasure have increased considerably in recent years.
A walk through the cellars of Porto
In the 72 Rua Dos Mercadores we ran into The Wine Box . Its facade with a light bulb-based sign captures our attention. Its cozy interior ends up convincing us.
Here it is Ricardo Carvalho , the young sommelier, who advises us and presents a tasting of those that are enjoyed between talks and laughter. Ricardo was born into a winery family, but he hated everything related to Port wine until, at the age of 15, he tasted one of the wines.
Some time later, and after studying tourism, he specialized in wine culture and now travels the world in search of great bottled treasures. While he serves us some of his favorite wines, a cheese board -all from different Portuguese regions- accompanies us to make the experience more enjoyable.
The thing can liven up as much as one wants -and for us, curiously, we like the march-, and continue trying any of the exquisite wines that make up the offer of 450 wines that the business has. And yes, thanks to a modern system that allows the liquid to be extracted without letting in oxygen that could damage the wine, they are all served by the glass!
The Wine Box
THE PLEASURE OF EATING
Wine makes you hungry. A lot. But, as in any place in the world, it is good to know which are those places where the yantar will be an experience to remember over time. We decided to aim high: How about we try the only two Michelin stars in the city?
The Yeatman , a five-star luxury hotel whose owners have been linked to the wine business through its cellars since 1838, presides over Vila Nova de Gaia from above allowing you to enjoy the most fascinating views of the Duero and the historic part of Porto.
Opened in 2010, It has the best restaurant in the whole city. Try to describe its essence in a simple way? Let's try: a traditionally based cuisine inspired by the flavors of Portugal, but interpreted and presented in a contemporary style. Nothing like walking through the doors of The Yeatman to understand what we're talking about.
The Yeatman
Received and treated with an unbeatable treatment, we are encouraged -and pampered- with one of the tasting menus offered by the Chef Ricardo Acosta.
When you sit down at The Yeatman's table, you never know what you're going to find: in addition to the dishes included in the proposals, there is always room for special surprises designed for every occasion. And all, of course, washed down with the best portuguese wines. ¡ That for something we are in Porto!
The food and wine experience can easily be extended beyond four hours during which the explosion of flavors and sensations is continuous.
Up to 14 dishes as suggestive as the tuna and seaweed trilogy , the cauliflower puree with lobster gyozas , the cod risotto with freeze-dried seaweed wave veal with gurumelos and Jerusalem artichoke purée will pass will test our palate. Unforgivable not to leave room for the selection of desserts.
The Yeatman
But if Porto gastronomy has something, it is that it is adaptable to all tastes and pockets. At the other end of the city we sat at the table O Paparico , a cozy restaurant whose kitchens work under the direction of its executive chef, Frenchman Jonathan Seiller who puts heart and soul into his work.
Here the flavors of Portugal are once again the protagonists of a menu that is renewed according to the season. Customer happiness is the most important, and that attention is part of the experience in the restaurant, whose fame has come through word of mouth.
Located in what was formerly a stable, and in a most intimate environment - to the point that there is no sign on the outside that identifies the restaurant - you have to ring the bell to gain access to the interior.
By candlelight, with black and white photographs and surrounded by stone walls that take us back to the past, you can taste proposals as exquisite as oxtail or lamb in three textures. Their tasting menu based on 8 dishes -and some other surprises- is an excellent option.
O Paparico
But gastronomy is revolutionizing the Porto panorama to such an extent that we never get tired of discovering options.
This time we stayed in the center of the city to get closer to the 222 Rua da Madeira. We arrived to Tapabento , a charming two-story restaurant that has become a benchmark in guides. In fact, it won't be unusual to find long lines of customers waiting at your door at opening time. –Warning: it is recommended to book in advance!-.
Isabel, its owner, tells us about the passion and enthusiasm with which she started this project back in 2014, when after landing in her hometown after a period living in Moscow, she decided to bet on her own business. she. Only 3 employees worked with her at the time: she couldn't afford more.
Today the Tapabento family is made up of 25 people with the most diverse roots – from Cape Verde to Russia, South Africa or Tunisia – who take care of every last detail of this place that has been transformed into almost a home. An advice? The cod at 72 degrees or the duck magret with sweet and sour mojo are to suck your fingers.
Tapabento
Without moving from the historical part, we suggest snacking on some food and local delicacies at ** Mercearia das Flores .** A spot at one of its high tables and the confidence in letting us be advised by your shopkeeper will be enough to enjoy the moment. The huge cupboard full of colorful cans of preserves makes a wonderful and authentic picture. And maybe it's a matter of gluttony, but we would take one of each!
Although the offer of places to make our palate happy is infinite. Almost as much as the slopes that make up the landscape of Porto. In one of them, the Rua de Sao Nicolau , is ** A Grade **, a small family business where you can taste the best grilled octopus with boiled potatoes that we can imagine. Achieving a space on your narrow terrace is a difficult but not impossible task: this way we will breathe the soul of Porto with each bite.
You will also have to climb some hills to reach the local Gazela Cachorrinhos da Batalha . Here, leaning against the bar and surrounded by a very folksy atmosphere, we'll cheer ourselves up with the mythical –and exquisite- puppies , some small Portuguese-style hot dogs that will taste like glory.
A perfect enjoyment delicacy with which to demonstrate that, even in small things, Porto knows how to surprise.
Porto knows how to surprise