A summer in Pals.
We start this journey from the end, for that sunset that you are always looking for . That magical postcard that you take with you as a souvenir in your suitcase when one more year the summer closes. This one, the one from 2021, we will say goodbye at the Gola del Ter , where the Mediterranean Sea and the Ter River meet, which crosses the Empordà region, on the beach in the municipality of Pals.
Here in the Gola del Ter beach, with the Medes Islands in the background, we see one of the best sunsets on the Costa Brava , while some children run around and a dog takes advantage of the last hours of the day to cool off in the sea. This little unknown refuge is located in the Basses d'en Coll natural area , a protected ecosystem that brings together marshes full of dunes and native vegetation where rice is also grown, the most precious asset of the town of Pals.
In its surroundings, rice fields, apple trees, farmhouses and the sea rest peacefully while one more day the sun sets in this corner of the Mediterranean. Shall we travel to Pals?
Pals, the medieval town of the Empordà.
THE MEDIEVAL VILLA
Along with the towns of Monells Y Ullastret , Pals is one of the best preserved medieval complexes in Catalonia. This neighbor of Begur has been for many years one of the most famous towns to spend a summer on the Costa Brava : its stone houses with colored doors, its streets beautifully colored by their flowers and its luxurious gastronomy make it an essential visit.
The municipality has three nuclei: countries, the Masos de Pals (an urbanization made up mostly of renovated old farmhouses) and beach pals . The medieval town can be easily explored in a morning, but it is worth stopping at its corners to learn more about its history and enjoy its silence. Well, as the writer said Josep Plan , Pals does not deserve a visit, but 100 visits.
From the horizon we can already distinguish the historic complex embraced by its wall, dating from the 12th-14th century, and the tower of tribute , a Romanesque tower with a circular floor plan 15 meters high. The Plaza Mayor with the Gothic arch welcomes a historic center full of houses and shops with small windows that overlook cobbled streets from where bougainvillea, cacti and vines grow with pleasure.
We continue walking to the church, which already existed in 994 with its Romanesque base, Gothic apse and nave and Baroque portico. It is followed by the remains of the Castle of which only the Torre del Homenaje and the walls with four different towers remain. The ride culminates in Viewpoint of Josep Pla , a perfect place to contemplate the ** Medes Islands ** and the Baix Empordà.
Charming streets in Pals.
**ITS LANDSCAPES**
If we could see** Pals from the air**, with one of those planes that land at the Aeroclub Empordà, we would see that most of its territory is made up of its rice fields, which change color as the seasons change. The cultivation of rice has endowed the town with that unique gastronomic personality since the fifteenth century , and now so do the apple tree crops that dye the Empordà landscape green and red.
We would also see Quermany massif , from where the town sits, Basses d'en Coll and, finally, the sea. Pals beach is made up of 3.5 km of sand from which two different beaches emerge: the Great Beach , deeper and with more grainy sand, and the Grau Beach , smaller but with more ecological value due to its protected dune system. Both have services.
TO DO
The list is endless but there are essentials such as the ** bicycle routes through its rice fields and natural park **. From the Visit Pals website you can organize them to your liking.
Arròs Molí de Pals It is the most traditional mill in the municipality, which also offers guided tours. The Parals rice family acquired the mill in 1984 (dating from 1452). Since then he began to cultivate and market the cereal. You can visit it from the El Xiulet de Pals tourist train.
If you like yoga your address is aeroclubyoga , Nina Manich's yoga center that offers classes almost every day and for all levels. The environment and its passion for yoga will connect you with the most Zen Empordà . In this same space is the classic Aeroclub Empordà where they teach flight classes for years.
Beyond the beaches of Pals we discover some of the jewels of the Costa Brava a few kilometers away. How not to mention the spectacular route that goes from Cap de Sa Sal, in Begur, to Cala d'Aiguafreda . In this part of the Camí de Ronda you will find some of the most charming coves in the area.
WHERE TO EAT
Rice, sausage, apples, wine, fresh fish... The pantry of Pals is endless thanks to the products of the Empordà . The municipality has numerous restaurants in the area, so many that you will not know where to start. This is our recommendation:
The Pedro: The best rice dishes in the town of Pals are made and it is located in the heart of its historic complex. Here you have to try the classic Pals casserole rice.
Solimate: family restaurant with more than 30 years of tradition on the beach of Pals . Their paellas are essential, not only for their flavor but also for their generosity. You won't go hungry here, for sure.
Sivana Bosch: idyllic and hidden place between the wooded area of Pals. You would never think that you would find a restaurant with such charm here. You have to find out in the evening , when their lights come on and they offer live music. The embers are the best thing on their menu.
Mooma: restaurant cider house and agricultural project based on sustainability and respect for the land. They have two environments: a more relaxed one to order cider at a very good price and the restaurant where you can enjoy some of the best dishes in the area. You can't miss it: 100% Empordà cuisine, treatment and atmosphere.
More Sorrer: a few kilometers from Pals, in Gualta, is this magical space to eat and drink is the most important. Do not miss their agenda, every day they surprise you with something different.
La Cream Empordà ice cream parlor: If you are looking for good ice cream between Begur and Pals, this is your place.
Gravel Pals: From the creators of Funky Pizza in Palafrugell, Grava Pals has been born, a modern and casual concept to have brunch or enjoy a good atmosphere in the town of Pals. **The best are their hamburgers. **
WhiteSummer Festival: Until August 29 it is the most important Festival of the municipality during the summer. What is WhiteSummer? Culture, design, gastronomy and emerging musical talent.
WHERE TO SLEEP IN PALS
If you are looking for calm and tranquility, whether you like golf or not, you have to make a stop at Hotel Emordà Golf. The hotel, recently renovated, has everything for a getaway to Pals and the Costa Brava.
First because of its location, perfectly close to the beaches and restaurants by car; and second for its services since it has 86 rooms , eight of them suites, fitness room, outdoor pool with views of the extensive golf courses and two essential restaurants: Terraverda and Terrafonda.
In the first you will find all kinds of modern dishes but with typical Empordà specialties, such as rice or grilled meat. And in Terrafonda flexivegan cuisine , that is, vegan cuisine with some dairy dishes.