La Vall de Llémena, a hidden secret in Girona.
The Vall de Llémena is not the Garrotxa , nor does he need. He doesn't have his fame either, but he doesn't want it either. This hidden place quietly enjoys an unusual beauty, also in the land of volcanoes and among charming stone farmhouses . Straddling two counties, between Gironès and Garrotxa, and with an area of 184 km2, it borders the Finestres, Portelles, Rocacorba, Sierra de Cadalt and Bruguerol, Montcal and Sant Medir hills to the west.
It gets its name from the Llémena river , emblematic element and of territorial cohesion, which crosses the valley from the headwaters to its mouth in the river Ter. Endless fields of wheat and poppies will welcome you with open arms for a weekend getaway or forever, it's up to you.
The life of its four main municipalities revolves around the stream: Canet d'Adri, Sant Aniol de Finestres, Sant Gregori and Sant Martí de Llémena . And around it, small towns and unique farmhouses spread out as if it were a painting where everything is designed to please the visitor. Romanesque heritage, hermitages and churches from the Middle Ages, castles, sanctuaries and volcanoes that watch over the Vall.
Once you set foot here, you will surely think why haven't you come before . The reason may be that it is very close to the Costa Brava and Garrotxa, which with its beaches, imposing volcanoes and the Fageda d'en Jorda have kept it a secret.
We propose a route for you to get to know it in all its splendor. We promise to make you satisfied!
Rocacorba.
FIRST STOP: CANET D'ADRI
We arrived at one of its most emblematic places, Canet d'Adri , a small town of stone houses surrounded by nature. If you have arrived here, you will be called by the desire to explore the Valley on foot or by bicycle, but never by car.
Make yourself comfortable, its hiking trails are some of the best in the area. Canet d'Adri stands out for the Sierra de Rocacorba and El Puigsou , the highest point of the municipality at almost 1,000 meters high. The Rocacorba mountain is the culminating point of the Gironés region, included within the spaces of natural interest in Catalonia, with its highest point being Puigsou, where the Sanctuary of Rocacorba (at 977 meters). The cliff has impressive views of the entire region.
You can get here on one of the numerous hiking trails that you will find on the Vall de Llèmena website. We propose the one that goes from Adrian (not Canet d'Adri) to Rocacorba . It is a circular route of about four hours of travel, of medium difficulty, in which you can reach an altitude of 977.
As you pass you will see farmland, the Llémena stream, hazelnut forests, trails and panoramic views of the Alta Garrotxa, Banyoles, les Gavarres, the Illes Medes and Canigó. Always try to follow the road signs and not deviate from the marked route. You will have a reward!
The Fountain of the Tower.
In Canet d'Adri there are two other of the Vall's obligatory stops,** the Font de la Torre and the Puig d'Adri volcano** (one of the five that are in the valley). It is also one of the most popular hiking trails. Why? Simply because of its charm. La Font is a protected natural area , a stream that comes down from the Sierra de Rocacorba and that, when it reaches land, has shaped the volcanic landscape into pools and gorges of water where you can take a bath when the temperatures allow it. Small waterfalls, the fountain and “les gorgues” form the Font de la Torre.
To get to the volcano things get a little more complicated. It must be said that most of the volcanoes in the valley are covered with forest, they are not as easy to see as in Garrotxa, but everything is perfectly signposted so that you know that you are in front of a volcano. Here you can follow the route.
Surely after this walk you will get a little hungry. The place to fill you up? Can Joan d'Adri restaurant. Between fields and nature, this restaurant is one of the busiest in the area, it has a large terrace and a cuina cassolana.
Grilled meats (and also fish options from the Costa Brava), homemade escalivadas, sausages -such as melted cheese from the Vall-, mongetes, canelons, xató (endive, tuna, cod, anchovies and romesco sauce), and of course , pà amb tomàquet, and rich stews. The most extensive is its menu of homemade desserts . Don't leave without trying their cheesecake or the recruit with homemade jam.
A magical place: Masía Can Pou.
** SLEEP IN THE VALLEY **
The Vall de Llémena is also known for being a land of old farmhouses. Sleeping in one of them to soak up its essence will be the best option. Masía Can Pou in Canet d'Adri keeps that typical charm that we talked about , plus a nice story behind.
Can Pou has been standing since the 17th century and it has always been used as a country house, with fields for cultivation and barns (it currently has more than 3 hectares of land). Many farmhouses, such as Can Pou, ceased to be used at the beginning of the last century and, from the 1970s, were rehabilitated as family homes. **It was Eirene and Donatello who finally filled it with life and directed it towards rural tourism in 2018 with their project. **
Newcomers from Canada to Barcelona began looking for a country house to fulfill one of their dreams: "open the doors of our house so that people could rest, unwind and eat well."
After two years of searching they found her and fell in love. They opened Can Pou with five rooms and an apartment. And they kept working on improvements throughout the following year. Today they have seven double rooms, one of them a suite, an apartment for four people and an apartment for two people.
“What we are most proud of is having once again given birth to the farmhouse , of the reception of our concept and of the personal and professional growth that it has given us”.
The Masía Can Pou suite.
Its rooms breathe that air of an old Catalan farmhouse but with modern touches and very comfortable beds where rest is absolutely pleasant. The views of all the exteriors from its windows allow you to enjoy the Valley and relax, which is the main thing.
In its common areas there are natural teas and infusions, llar de foc in which to warm up on cold nights or read quietly, as well as a pool area with hammocks for summer days. They also offer other activities such as massages, bicycle rental and areas for teleworking.
But we highlight its cuisine as one of the essentials in the area . Donatello is the one behind the breakfasts, lunches and dinners that are offered, and his international hand (especially Italian) transports them to numerous places.
“Donatello was not a cook, he has always worked in haute cuisine and has always liked to cook, and also to eat! In fact, he spent his holidays cooking for family or friends. Our cuisine is homemade, local, we work with producers from the Valley and we also have our own garden”.
Everything is made by them, from delicious homemade bread, cakes, muffins, yogurts and jams that they serve for breakfast. The tasting dinners are magical, with local wine and some of the best local products. Do not miss it!
Do you want to sleep here? Masía Can Pou is part of the establishments of the portal Ruralka where you can book your stay.
Breakfasts at Can Pou.
SECOND STOP: SANT MARTÍ DE LLÈMENA
A new day dawns in the Vall. Prepare your backpack, do not forget to ask for a picnic at Masía Can Pou so you don't miss anything and delve back into the charms of the valley.
Another of its most beloved municipalities is Sant Marti de Llemena . There are several reasons, one of them is its scenic charms: gorges, fountains and volcanoes, as well as a qualitative gastronomy.
If you get here you can not miss the Gorgues de Llorà, eat or have lunch at Cal Ganso and enjoy the cheeses made at La Balda , which since 2012 prepares the best in the area. The most popular?** Fermío, a rustic cheese reminiscent of the French Saint Marcellin**.
La Vall has five volcanoes: the Banya del Boc Volcano, the Puig d'Adri Volcano, the Clot de l'Omera Volcano, the Puig de les Medes Volcano and the Puig Moner and Granollers de Rocacorba Volcanoes. Don't worry, because they are currently all asleep. It is in Sant Martí de Llémena where we locate the Banya del Boc, whose itinerary allows us to discover some of the most curious places in the town.
The circular route begins in the Pla de San Joan and covers about 8.8 km of route in which it crosses volcanic areas, trails and silent forests of oaks and oaks. . The path takes you to the crater of the volcano, nowadays covered with crop fields, and you arrive at the hermitage of Sant Medir where you can take a peaceful nap.
The area of Sant Martí de Llémena.