"I never imagined before coming that it would be so intense," he says. the voice in off of Maria Grace Chiuri about Greece. We have Greek culture inside us, says the creative director of Dior, who gave carte blanche to Athenian filmmaker Marianna Economou to unveil in an exclusive documentary, The Greek Bar Jacket, behind the scenes of the Cruise 2022 fashion show.
For this collection, the designer of the women's lines has developed an open speech with several Greek artisans, making their ancestral and family traditions shine, thus linking Dior's heritage to Greek culture, and dragging us into a very inspiring journey to the very origin of the concept of beauty.
Dior Cruise 2022 Collection at the Acropolis in Athens.
Marianna Economou – who studied anthropology, photojournalism and film production in London– she has portrayed these exceptional synergies in a documentary film that captures the virtuous conversation between the savoir-faire of the Dior workshops and the Greek craftsmen.
The journey begins in Argos, with a visit to the workshop of the embroiderer Aristeidis Tzonevrakis, that has reinterpreted the iconic Bar Jacket (hence the title), and continues to Souflí, in the Silk Line manufacture –directed by Kostas Mouhtaridis and Dimitra Kolotoura–, where the precious silk fabrics that sublimate the looks of the French house were born.
As a finishing touch, on the island of Thassos, Economou captures the illustrations of Christiana Soulou.
Giola, a natural rock pool on the island of Thassos.
Since 2000, Marianna Economou has directed and produced documentary series and independent films produced in Greece and co-productions with European broadcasters such as the BBC, ARTE and YLE, she being awarded numerous times.
Athenian filmmaker Marianna Economou.
We take advantage of the premiere of this fashion film, which you can already see on YouTube, to chat with her about the film and, of course, your favorite places in Greece.
How did this project with Dior come about?
It was in October 2020, when an e-mail arrived from Dior Paris saying that they had seen my documentary Tomatoes listen to Wagner (available on Filmin) and that would like to work with me on a project to be held in Athens in the summer of 2021.
My producer, Rea Apostolides, and I were taken by surprise, but it was definitely a very interesting proposal and a challenge.
An open door to the backstage of Dior and to Greek craftsmanship.
When we met with Maria Grazia Chiuri in an empty hotel lobby in Athens, Due to the pandemic, she told me that she was looking for a fresh Greek eye to make a documentary about the making of the Cruise 2022 parade.
When I asked her what she meant by 'fresh', she smiled and said that she wanted a Greek perspective and a human-centered approach. for the artistic and cultural exchange that would take place between the maison and the local Greek artisans. We talked for a while and then they gave me carte blanche.
Detail of the craftsmanship of the Dior Cruise 2022 collection.
Was there a lot of interaction with Maria Grazia Chiuri during the shoot?
My film crew and me we follow her almost everywhere in Greece, but since she had a very tight schedule, I was only able to have a couple of interviews with her and a more informal conversation outside an archaeological site.
What did you like the most about working with her?
It was very interesting to watch her interact with her team and the Greeks, in order to build the concept of the show and the collection. She is a person who really talks, she is open to listen, learn and cooperate.
She has a great 'Mediterranean' temperament and she always expresses her enthusiasm or she openly and generously praises the work of the artisans.
Cruise Collection 2022 Dior.
Was it your first time backstage at a fashion show? How was the experience?
For me, fashion was a completely unknown world and Being able to witness the preparations for such a large parade was like entering a magical world. I could never have imagined how many people were involved, hundreds! It was a great production and a miracle how all the pieces came together in the end giving a spectacular result.
It was a very stressful and emotional experience for everyone, and there was great relief and happiness when the show was over and everything had gone well. I was very impressed the attention of all the teams to the details, to the last touches. I guess this is what makes the difference, ultimately.
The Greek embroiderer Aristeidis Tzonevrakis.
Were you especially interested in fashion before this experience?
I wasn't particularly so until I made this documentary. Having the opportunity to be so close to the people who design and create the garments, and visiting the Dior Haute Couture ateliers in Paris was a great revelation. I was very impressed with how those magical fingers transform fabrics into art forms. I definitely see clothes differently now.
Did you know some of the Greek craftsmen?
I did not know them personally and I feel very fortunate to have had the opportunity to meet them through this work. Each of them is unique in its field. I was impressed by Aristeidis' skill in cord embroidery, his passion, dedication and openness to learn and develop.
Photo shoot for Dior's Cruise 2022 collection, at the Acropolis in Athens.
The fact that Maria Grazia decided to cooperate with the family factory of Kostas Mouhtaridis, Silk Line, the only silk factory still in operation in the small town of Souflí, was a challenge that resulted in Dior combining traditional Greek designs, colors and textures, and the production of beautiful silk fabrics that had the feeling of the people.
In Thasos we met Christiana Soulou, an artist who was isolating herself due to the pandemic. Her sketches of her women convey a transcendental and mythical feeling, and her thoughts on the creative nature of her cooperation with Dior They added an interesting new perspective.
The embroiderer Aristeidis Tzonevrakis.
In Piraeus we document the oldest hat maker in Greece, run by the Tsalavoutas family. They worked closely with the renowned Stephen Jones and the Benaki museum to produce a Dior version of the famous 'Zorba the Greek' fishing hat.
For me it was a magnificent trip to creativity, crafts and cultural exchange, with a human touch.
As a filmmaker, what has been the biggest challenge of this project for you?
I feel very honored that the House of Dior trusted me and gave me complete artistic freedom. They were open to my ideas and agreed to bring Aristeidis Tzonevrakis, who created embroidered versions of the Bar jacket and Book Tote, to Paris to also photograph it in the Dior workshops and thus highlight the cultural exchange and cooperation of both parties.
The biggest challenge of this project was the short period of time we had, which forced us to rush at some point. Sometimes I felt anxiety that the material was too 'reportage', my intention was not just to produce a making of.
Detail of the Dior Cruise 2022 collection.
However, once Maria Grazia decided on the people she would work with in Greece, I was able to start focusing on specific characters and their collaborations.
It was very important for me to be able to tell a story, highlight the essence and special meaning of this fashion show, emotions and relationships that arose from the meeting of these two completely different worlds.
Who are your role models in the world of cinema?
There are many filmmakers that I admire and find their work very inspiring. In the documentary world there are the Maysles brothers, Pirjo Honkasalo, Kim Longinotto, Patricio Guzmán, Victor Kossakovski.
Fictional, Michael Haneke, Asghar Farhadi, Tarkovsky, Pawel Pawlikowski.
The ancient theater in the city of Argos, Argolis ("Argolida"), Peloponnese, Greece.
What are your most special not-so-known corners of Greece? Tell us about any that you discovered during the filming.
For the shooting of this film, we traveled to the north of Greece, to Souflí, a small town that once flourished thanks to the production of silk, and to the island of Thasos. Both destinations have a special beauty and are not on the main tourist route. We also travel south, to meet Aris in Argos.
On the other hand, I like Nauplia (Nauplion), a city near the sea, which has a magnificent castle, and its long history is evident in the architecture.
The Peloponnese is one of my favorite areas of Greece. It offers it all: beautiful traditional villages in the mountains, long beaches along the coast, important archaeological sites (Olympia, Mycenae, Pylos, Epidaurus, Methoni, Koroni...), towers in Mani, rivers, small fishing villages, good food.
Mulberry field in the northern Greek city of Souflí, a key center for Greek silk production since the 19th century.