A man jogs along the Charles River
Such is the fever to see this natural phenomenon that there is even a website called yankee foliage which reports, more or less in real time, the progress of this phenomenon throughout the United States. This show can be seen in any of the states of the country. Even so, guidebooks recommend the east side and specifically New England (the states of Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island and Connecticut), as one of the best places to enjoy the colors of the 'foliage'.
As can be seen on the web, this phenomenon has different phases: green, turning, moderate, peak, fading, gone . Add, yes, a nuance to know in advance. What the web announces virtually as 'peak' (climax), has not just been a festival of reds in harsh reality. Let's say that the diagnosis of the web is somewhat more advanced than what one finds later on the ground.
With the feet in New England, one of the best urban settings to enjoy the 'foliage' is the city of Boston . The trees of Boston Common, the city's central park, offer a very good example of what this event represents. The best photos of this lung are during these dates and the postcards of the souvenir shops attest to this. Don't expect to find New York's Central Park either: Boston is a city of just over 600,000 inhabitants and its area is much more secluded than that of any American metropolis. Of course, these limitations make it closer.
Thus, walking just 30 minutes, one can plant on the banks of the Charles River. This watercourse, which separates the capital of Massachusetts from the city of Cambridge -home to Harvard University or MIT-, is a bucolic place to get a pleasant impression of the chromatic values of autumn. The river has paved roads on each side, wooden docks to get closer to the water -which by the way is completely frozen during the harsh winter- and numerous bridges that allow you to observe the 'foliage' phenomenon from both shores.
Foliage to the urban in Boston
Now, far from the asphalt and the madding crowd, one can rent a car or escape by train to enjoy the foliage in a completely natural context. We choose the historical route of the Mohawk Trail just two hours drive from Boston. The itinerary takes its name from an ancient trade route traveled by Indian tribes to link the Atlantic coast and upstate New York. Part of its residue is present in monuments, nomenclatures or souvenir shops -the 'fashion victims' will be tempted to buy moccasins like the ones worn by the natives-. And of course, the place is incomparable. The Mohawk Trail winds through the Berkshire Mountain Range and enjoys numerous viewpoints to immortalize the landscape of trees dressed in autumn. Finally, the route has its dose of cultural 'moderneo' since the city of North Adams, at the end of the Mohawk Trail, is home to the Massachusetts Museum Of Contemporary Art, better known as Mass MoCA.
With the GPS running, as one moves away from the city, one becomes aware of the richness of the landscape in terms of flora. The imposing trees are imposed on each side of the A2 motorway -by the way, without tolls-. The sensation of fusion with the landscape is more intense in the outskirts of Orange, an hour and a half away. In those parts, one already circulates on a road that goes into mountains, rivers, trees and leaves that hover on the shoulders.
It is not an exaggeration to say that here one can already have an aperitif of what deep America is . True, we are not on Route 66, nor Kerouac's pen -despite being from Massachusetts- puts a lot of details in these corners. But looking up, one will also run into groups of bikers, care trucks, sixties neons, shops with denomination of origin and locals who make one feel like a foreigner . Why not? Orange is therefore a good stop to have a brunch, try the seasonal genre or simply stretch your legs and contemplate the Yankee aesthetic.
Mohawk Trail: a taste of deep America
Later, reaching Shelburne , at the entrance to the Mohawk Trail, one will have already come across farms offering artisanal maple syrup. Do not be scared to see that all the bottles that contain the syrup are the same. Whether farm, store, trade or supermarket, the container is always the same. That certifies that it is organic. On the back, one will find a label with the details of the farmers who have prepared this syrup. If one wants to sweeten their breakfasts and snacks, it can be done with doses ranging from half a pint to a gallon. , that is, from 5 to 50 dollars.
Shelburne is a plan B to put the brakes on. Especially if the Deerfield River Dam is open (a server had no such luck). However, it offers more charms like the Bridge Flower. In the early 20th century, when the tram that ran over the bridge fell into disuse, the community decided to adorn the structure with flowers instead of tearing it down. The result is a structure that gives shelter to 500 different species.
Shelburne's Bridge Flower
Along the itinerary, one will cross numerous state parks -'Forest State'- that abound in the area. The Mohawk Trail, between Charlemont and Florida, is a good option to do some hiking , inhale fresh air, walk through paths full of dry leaves and experience the 'foliage' from within. There are several routes and one can get lost in the mountains with tours that range from half an hour to the whole afternoon.
In the middle of the forest, one will enjoy from within all the colors that the autumn spectacle offers. Looking up, one can appreciate greens that resist the first bars of cold, yellows that suffer from drops in temperature, oranges that languish and bright reds -without a doubt the most spectacular - who have breathed their last photosynthetic breath. In addition, rivers and streams that irrigate the area provide the stage with greater visual and auditory richness. With luck, one can run into some squirrels, birds and even some wild cat. By the way, deer and black bears walk through these corners.
Ah, in summer and the first measures of autumn, it may be that in the most rural areas the visitor comes across notices of ticks . In numerous signposted paths there are notices that attest to this. The recommendations are to avoid very remote areas, often check legs or arms and wear pants tucked into socks, just in case.
Greetings from Mohawk Trail
Once oxygenated by the richness of the forest, the road makes a notable ascent. Along it, one can stop the car at some loophole to enjoy the landscape of the berkshire from the heights This panorama is a feast for the eyes and, without a doubt, the motley richness of the mountains represent the stamp of the trip that is worth immortalizing . The appearance of a double rainbow would give for a Stendhal Syndrome.
In the city of Florida - guidebooks say it's the coldest in all of Massachusetts -, there is one of these parking lots indicated to enjoy such perspectives. Next to it, there is a store with all kinds of material typical of the Indians. Leather garments, t-shirts with wolves howling under the full moon -warning for hipsters-, feathers, necklaces, wooden flutes and moccasins -on sale, if you're lucky-. And more syrup, of course.
Once the mountain pass is crowned, a steep descent begins on the way to North Adams . In one of the tightest curves, is the restaurant 'The Golden Eagle' that offers another of the best landscape views. If you have time, it is worth stopping on the side of the road next to the numerous cars that make 'pit stops' in the place and looking towards North Adams one can see the Greylock Mount (1,064 meters) -the highest mountain in Massachusetts-.
already in North Adams , we put an end point to the route. At the entrance to the city, there is an artists' residence that serves to introduce the modernist broth of the town presided over by the Mass MoCA. Warning, the museum closes at 5 pm, so it is worth leaving one of the stops mentioned for the way back.
The next day, to curl the curl of the 'foliage', one option is to crown the Greylock Mount . A road open to car traffic leads to a peak dominated by a monument in honor of American soldiers. The views, a spectacle. And the routes through the forest, numerous. One of them links to the Appalachian Trail. But those are big words.
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North Adams, Massachusetts