Coordinates to know Córdoba as a Cordovan
We use the verses Poet in New York, Federico Garcia Lorca , when he recited that of “Cordoba to die for!” , to celebrate the existence of this city, sensory where they exist, relaxed, romantic, ancient, family friendly… Cordoba, the Eternal City.
If we think of the south, places like Seville, Granada appear in our minds... but, be careful! Córdoba retains the wow factor . The one that makes a break become a global hard drive reset. In this city there are still not so many tips, nor so many websites, nor hundreds of hotels (although everything will work…). In short, you do not know very well what you are going to find far from the obvious 'must', and that is the best thing about trips, without a doubt. We can affirm that today's traveler attends live and direct the progressive international take-off that this small metropolis whose letter of introduction to the world is the Mosque, the patios, Medina Azahara and the old town.
Walls and Almodóvar Gate
Proof of all this was the mention of The New York Times as one of the 52 global destinations to visit in 2021 . And even Barack Obama used it as an example during a speech at Cairo University to defend respect and coexistence between different religions that represents . Well, he already plays: let's put Córdoba on our radar.
WHERE AND HOW TO SLEEP IN CÓRDOBA
Sleep in the Jewish quarter yes or yes
Stay in the middle of the Jewish quarter and do not deprive yourself of the pleasure of walk back to your hotel, breathing in the atmosphere, crossing medieval gates like the one in the moon alley , leaving you hypnotized by the spectacular walls of the Mosque golden in the sun. If it's spring (and at the end of February the sun is already hot here) there is no better therapy than walking through these alleys vacuuming the aroma of orange blossom that floods everything.
And although dozens of hotels are preparing openings, the reality is that the current situation has slowed them down. Meanwhile, the Hospes Palacio del Bailío must be visited with any excuse, even if it is to know the remains of the Roman domus of the 1st century AD. that can be seen under his restaurant.
Hospes Bailío Palace (Cordoba)
We also recommend delving into the history of the Hotel Casas de La Judería, whose location is already worth its weight in gold, and going up to the terrace of the H10 Palacio de Colomera, with the best views of the Plaza de las Tendillas , for a drink (or a photo). Without forgetting other charming accommodations such as Patio del Posadero, Viento 10, Balcón de Córdoba, Madinat… with views, charming rooms and good breakfasts.
SAVE AT LEAST TWO DAYS TO KNOW THE CITY OF CÓRDOBA
“It is not so much what you see as what you feel when you are in Córdoba” , comments the guide Laura Cabrera , Art Historian and specialist in Hispanic-Muslim Art. Cabrera recommends “avoiding those visits that in two hours intend to see as many monuments as possible. Because precisely in Córdoba the wonderful thing is to understand it and understand why there are Christian chapels with Mudejar decoration either why the Synagogue has written that 'Allah is great'” , she finishes.
The guide always remembers the anecdote of Mr. Toshimasa: “He came to Córdoba with a group of Japanese on a tour of those "run-that-you-catch"... and seeing that it was coming to an end and they had not been taught much more than the Mosque approached me and said: 'Where is Maimonides? I have come to Spain just to get to know his hometown.' I took him by the arm and made him run through the alleys (his bus left in 10 minutes) connecting with each other as only guides know how to do until we reached the tiny Plaza Tiberias . I swear I've never seen so much respect for an image. Toshimasa took off his hat, bowed slightly and said: 'Konnichiwa'. Today Toshimasa continues to quote the great physician and philosopher continually in his Medieval Western History classes at the University of Tokyo. ”, He remembers.
WHAT TO SEE AND WHAT TO DO
Return to the Mezquita if only to wander through the Patio de los Naranjos
Córdoba: a magical coexistence of cultures
If you have already gotten lost several times in the 23,200 m2 of this particular temple, you will have realized its magnitude. AND s the largest mosque on the planet, after Mecca and the Blue Mosque in Istanbul , and holds hundreds of secrets. Have you ever climbed the bell tower of its Cathedral? From the tallest building in Cordoba , with 54 m, you can admire the sensory Patio de los Naranjos from a bird's eye view ( ticket, 2 euros and children under 7 years are not allowed ). And if you don't feel like it, or you've already done so, go back in through one door and out through another, crossing this unique Eden that is the Patio de los Naranjos. Or stay a while in it to contemplate the staff, to read a book...
Art addicts? The route of the 8 Fernandina churches is for you
The entrance to the Mosque includes a free visit to the eight Mudejar churches . Walking through them is the perfect excuse to walk through the most authentic neighborhoods with a purpose, especially through its narrow streets. Do it with the help of the app, which you can download, or with a guide (much better).
These Mudejar churches, old mosques , they were ordered to be built by King Fernando III El Santo when he conquered the city, in 1236, and they are authentic treasure chests. little time machines . Some, like the San Agustin , represent the pinnacle of Andalusian baroque –and taking into account the hyperbolic nature of this culture, this is saying a lot–.
Church of Our Lady of Peace and Hope, in Córdoba
No map, no guide, no company
Comfortable shoes. Do not even doubt that. This huge old town is to be missed a thousand times. And if you have already seen the Alcazar of the Christian Monarchs, the Palace of Viana, the Calleja del Pañuelo and the poetic neighborhood of San Basilio , why not join a tour, like the one in Secrets of Cordoba , which "starts from the Plaza de las Tendillas and passes through emblematic places such as the Plaza del Potro, the Plaza de la Corredera, the Puente Romano or the Calleja del Pañuelo", he tells us Pilar Poyato, from the company Córdoba a Pie . "These are two-hour routes and travelers pay what they estimate."
Take a walk, a packet of potatoes and watch life go by in the square
Yes, Andalusia as a whole is romantic, contemplative. Sometimes, in a square, plof! an orange falls and you realize the passage of time... In Córdoba there are those squares away from the hustle and bustle, picturesque, lonely … where to unleash love or simply spend a few minutes contemplating a tile, a dove, an ancient gate. Note: Capuchin Square , better known as the Christ of the Lanterns Square (which we recommend you also visit at night).
“A great plan is to buy a bag of chips at the frying house of the Christ of the Lanterns -on the Alfaros street – and eat them sitting on the Cuesta del Bailío”, explains the official guide Elena Pérez, from Córdoba Única. There, on one of its 31 steps, watching life go by, you will witness the spectacle of one of the most beautiful bougainvillea in the city, the one on the wall of the Capuchin orchard spilling over the white wall. It is the perfect prelude to the austere square, rectangular, with high walls, solitary... Other small squares of the style? Note: Plaza de Abades or Plaza de San Miguel.
Watch life go by from a square in Córdoba
In search of a “family friendly” oasis
But if we talk about spaces with personality, where you can also disconnect while the children have fun (and you rest in the sun with your glass of wine) this list could not miss the Jeronimo Paez Square , also known like the Archaeological Museum. At La Cávea restaurant , one after another, all the popular classics of Cordovan cuisine.
Another of these oases of calm are the Orive Gardens , where feline lovers will make many friends. A curious place to get carried away. And to take a good walk Riverside of the Guadalquivir where to take a look at Sotos de la Albolafia Natural Park . the only protected natural space within a historic center in Europe, with more than 120 species of birds and historic flour mills: San Marcos or the Albolafia mill.
Jeronimo Paez Square, Cordoba
OTHER POSSIBLE ROUTES
Walk in the footsteps of Manolete or visit the birthplace of the Andalusian horse
“There is not in Spain Royal Stables from the time of those of Córdoba, from 1570, in this state of conservation”, explain the pair of guides Rafael Morales and Azahara Pérez de la Concha, from Córdobafilia . “Our new horse route, for those who want to get to know this other part of Córdoba, goes through the Royal Stables , among other places related to the world of horses, which are fascinating”, they explain.
“We also do the route of the bull, which here, in Manolete's homeland , is another highly recommended classic. We visited the statue of the bullfighter, in front of the church and the Santa Marina square, the bullfighting museum, his birthplace, we reached the La Salud Cemetery, where his tomb is, and we passed some bullfighting taverns that were frequented by the Caliphs – the bullfighters – and that are a bit out of the traditional tourist bars. Entering those neighborhood taverns and seeing grandparents playing dominoes and drinking wine is the most celebrated by travelers. We had a Fino there and enjoyed the lifestyle of the people here” (€10/per person, 2 hours, each route, the horse route and the bull route).
From tavern to tavern and for the penultimate Montilla-Moriles
Leaving wines and taverns is also getting into the thick of it. But beware, do not ask for any wine. Let it be a Montilla-Moriles . If they have it, it will be the unequivocal sign that you are in a 100% Cordovan tavern and not in a place for foreigners. “For a fine wine and a tapa I love the Guzmán Tavern, on Judíos street , one of the oldest taverns in Córdoba, in a hidden street of the Jewish quarter, near the statue of Maimonides”, comments the guide Elena Pérez, from Córdoba Única.
Although depending on the area you are walking you will find reference taverns, among the favorites are "la La Montillana Tavern , the Tavern El Pisto or The Sacristy of Santa Marina ”, explains Mara de Miguel, award-winning sommelier from Córdoba and member of We Love Montilla Moriles, a group of addicts to these local wines who encourage Cordovans and foreigners to take a good sunbath and Wine Culture in the heart of the city. Cordovan countryside.
WHAT TO EAT IN THE CAPITAL OF SALMOREJO
In search of flamenquines and salmorejo… the most enjoyable cuisine Fried aubergines, oxtail, the best potato omelettes... Here you can eat wonderfully well on the street, even near the Mosque. But an infallible place is the Los Berengueles Tavern . Interior patio and pleasant atmosphere. By the way, if you are a hamburger lover, Vaquena Burger is rocking. Their secret is the beef from their own livestock that they use . And in addition, the place is central, a stone's throw from the Puerta de Almodóvar.
More picturesque places: the Plateros Tavern , a place that the painter used to frequent Julio Romero Torres and that has its own warehouse, or Salinas House , another hit. Now, if you also don't want to leave without having a long after-dinner conversation with a good PX wine and unique views of the Mezquita tower from its rooftop, head to The House of Pedro Ximénez , on Deans Street. Or to the Taberna del Río, also great views (these of the river and the Roman Bridge) and options also for vegetarians.
Salmorejo from Los Plateros Tavern
And if you have one of those days of browsing among market stalls, snacking among gastrobars, and trying from here and there, a little of everything from the province of Córdoba... the Victory Market offers the possibility of sinking teeth into recipes as tasty as oxtail rice or those Iberian pork cartridges from Los Pedroches ...
Haute cuisine experiences in the gastronomic capital of Andalusia
But if you've already tried the classics, you've walked around the Jewish quarter, the market and you're full of flamenquines, it's time for you to experience one of the most successful restaurants in Andalusia, the Noor by Paco Morales , a two-star Michelin for which you will have to leave the city center and go to the chef's hometown: sugarcane.
There is also Choco, by Kisko García. But if what you are looking for is to boast of being up to date, Terra Olea It is the place that everyone talks about. It is on Avenida de la Arruzafilla, to the northwest of the city, on a street, that of Maria the Jewess , converted into a small foodie epicenter of the city.