Octopus and sunsets: or why Galicia is the indisputable summer gastronomic paradise

Anonim

These are not knives, they are not a full-fledged orgasm

These are not knives, no: they are a full-fledged orgasm

we propose eight coastal destinations and 21 local (although there could be many more) in which enjoy the product of the sea like a native on a tour of the ** Galician coast from north to south .**

TO MARIÑA LUCENSE AND ORTEGAL

The Galician Cantabrian counties hide among cliffs, endless beaches and viewpoints some gastronomic treasures . The nice roll , for example, is a summer specialty that we share with our Asturian neighbors. you can try it on To Lonxa , a restaurant in the heart of the port of Burela famous precisely for its catches of this fish. And if you're lucky maybe Meli, the cook , prepare you a little more in a sandwich to go.

The perfect table overlooking the sea and full of great products in Galicia Hotel Ego restaurant Nito

The perfect table, looking at the sea and full of great products, in Galicia

A few miles further west one step away from Viveir or there is the restaurant **Nito**, one of the Galician seafood temples , overlooking the spectacular area beach . Anything you order here will be fine, but to start somewhere, why not order some clams , nail coquinas (which here are locals. Something exceptional in Galicia), if anything some barnacles and then let's see?

Simpler is the proposal of ** A Cabana de Fos **, together with the Morouzos beach, in Ortigueira . Uncomplicated cooking using local products -what many of us look for in a getaway to a quiet beach- with dishes such as Stingray caldeirada or grilled razor clams among the most popular on their menu.

This is a piece of lobster at Nito restaurant

This is a piece of lobster at Nito restaurant

CEDEIRA

It is one of those secrets that keeps the North Coast , a place where you don't really know if the little old town or the estuary is more charming, full of incredible bends that will make you think you're in the Caribbean until the temperature of the water brings you back to reality.

Still safe from the tourist massification the town is known for some of its cooking specialties, such as monkfish with peas what you can try in the restaurant The Badulaque or the shortfin mako tapas that they offer in the small and always noisy Muiño Kilowatt . If you get one of the stools that they have on the street, in front of their windows, and enjoy the tapas with views of the estuary, you will have the complete experience.

Anchors and oxen at full speed

Wild crabs and oxen at full throttle

DEATH COAST

Corcubio It is, surely, the most charming town in the region of the end of the world. In a bend in the alleys of its convoluted historic center is 1764 Gastro Space , a small charming restaurant that occupies a fishing house built in the year they use as the name of the place . Seafood noodles, mussel omelette, sardines... seafood cuisine in a space that will pleasantly surprise you.

Also particular and very interesting is the offer of living sea , a hybrid of fishmonger and restaurant in which the formula is as simple as it is attractive: enter the fish market, select the fish that you most want, choose between having it cooked or grilled, choose a side dish and go up to the dining room on the upper floor to have a drink while they prepare it for you. What could go wrong with a formula like this?

1764 Gastro Space

In full Corcubio

End the day with a secret well kept by the people of the area: the sunset from the beach bar , in lires , a village about ten minutes by car. The omelette is not bad, the squids are good, the razor clams... but that's almost the least of it. With a sunset like that, the difficult thing is that something does not taste like glory.

BETWEEN WALLS AND NOIA

We are at that point where the Costa da Morte becomes the Rías Baixas combining the best of both worlds: more protected beaches but without the hustle and bustle that you will find further south, seafood from the estuary and the open sea.

A good place to discover it is the ** Restaurante Ríos ,** in the small port of O Freixo, with a menu of fish and shellfish of enormous quality. You can't leave without trying the oysters. End the day having a drink on the terrace that the Bar Carrillo has on the Parameán beach, at the entrance of Esteiro . Home cooking portions while you see how the sun hides behind the pine forests that cover the hillside to the beach.

The crab of Mar Viva... speaks for itself

The crab of Mar Viva... speaks for itself

PORTO DO ARE

One of the towns that have best known how to conserve its marine atmosphere in this part of the Galician coast.

Stroll through its old area, go up to the Atalaia viewpoint, stroll to the beautiful baroque church that rises just 10 meters from the seashore and, on your way back, stop to have **one of the best octopuses at the fair in Galicia at Bar Chinto**, in the middle of the port, and then choose between a grilled fish or a wonderful squid sandwich at El Hórreo restaurant.

This is how you will be received in the Hórreo with a lot of love from the sea

This is how they will receive you in the Hórreo, with a lot of love from the sea

REGION OF O BARBANZA

On the other side of the estuary you will be seeing **Cambados, O Grove ** and all those towns that surely sound much more familiar to you (especially now, if you have seen the series farina ) . However, on this lesser-known north shore, you can find lesser-known sites such as or Rianxo, A Pobra, Aguiño or Palmeira in which to enjoy the best local product.

A good gastronomic plan can begin by eating at ** Casa Isolina (Taragoña, Rianxo) **, which has more than 130 years of history and whose cook was, among other things, chef of the Spanish soccer team during a World Cup.

My recommendation is that you go for the classics on the menu, such as the cockles and cornbread empanada , in which the stuffing cockles come with a shell (yes, it is more uncomfortable, but the flavor they give to the dough when they open up during cooking is worth the effort) or the xoubas, those tiny sardines that are at their best in summer, baked and served with potatoes.

Galician cockles

Beautiful Galician cockles

For the afternoon the plan continues with a few beers and some steamed mussels in the tiny bar of the Cabo de Cruz Náutico , which for something is the main port Galician mussel fish , and ends with a classic among connoisseurs of the area: the octopus and cheese sandwich San Simón da Costa –in my case with an addition of grilled onion- at the ** New Bar in A Pobra do Caramiñal.**

LANE

You've heard a thousand times about clams of this port but, why are we going to deny it, take them here, with the shellfish banks in sight, in front of the Cortegada Island , which was once owned by the Royal House, is not the same.

To the scallops we would make a temple

To the scallops we would make a temple

Try them in their most classic version, a la marinera, at the ** A Castelara ** restaurant. Although if you want **to explore other seafood, your option may be Casa Bóveda **, recognized by the main guides as one of the best restaurants of traditional seafood cuisine in Galicia.

If what you are looking for is to have an authentic experience of contemporary seafood cuisine yours is O Loxe Mareiro . Few gin and tonics will taste better than the one you drink there, literally two meters from where the waves break against the docks, after enjoying one of their amazing menus.

VIGO RIVER

The remote part of the estuary, where it meets the Pontevedra , hides hidden coves, forests that reach the sea, spectacular views of the Cies Island and eating houses, those with a humble appearance and a menu that changes daily depending on what comes from the fish market, such as ** A Curva , in Nerga,** where the prices are reasonable and the views are up to par. of what arrives on the plate.

Extreme simplicity and pure flavor of the sea. Try their crabs, their shrimp or, if they have it on the menu that day, the sea bream.

If you have the base camp in Vigo and you want to have an authentically local experience, be sure to come to The monkey (the official name is Harbor Bar , but hardly anyone knows him that way), in the small port of canid , a few kilometers from the center. Have an octopus at one of its highly valued tables overlooking the beach scores very high on the advanced viguesismo scale.

Back in the center you can finish the tour in style at the Bitadorna , famous for its pan-fried clams, for its lobster rice and, in general, for its seafood offer. But if your path continues south, don't worry: Bitadorna has its mother house, founded in 1995, in the port of A Guarda.

Read more