Baily Lighthouse, Howth
Today we will not cross the island in search of cliffs , we will not ** go north ** to explore the green landscapes nor ** travel south ** to discover the seafaring essence. We have it all right here next to Dublin .
The wind blows strongly from the harbour's jetties, dispelling the clouds and giving us the purest scent of the Irish Sea. Some fishing boats enter and others leave while flocks of noisy seagulls follow their trail. They say that here it is not difficult to see seals wandering between the pontoons, but today we were not going to be so lucky.
From the lighthouse, located at the end of the breakwater, our gaze is captured by the islet baptized as the eye of ireland just ahead, and just behind, the silhouette of this fishing port that dominates the cliff-top peninsula at the northern end of Dublin Bay. Calm and dynamic at the same time, touristy and authentic, very close and very far from Dublin. We talk about Howth, one of those fishing villages that fall in love without wanting to.
FROM URBAN TO SAILOR
One of the best things about Dublin is how easy it is to escape from. From the city center, the train dart (3.05 euros) transports us in just 20 minutes from the urban atmosphere to our shot of marine spirit. We can almost smell the saltpeter now.
Like half Ireland, the history of Howth is written with viking ax In 819, the Nordics would invade and dominate this island, now a peninsula, until the 12th century, when the Anglo-Normans took over their feudal rule. The site was an important trading port until the 14th century. Since then, it has been transformed into the charming fishing village that we find today as soon as we get off the train. And that's how we want it to stay.
Howth falls in love unintentionally
Howth (population 8,000) is famous throughout Ireland for its fresh fish and shellfish , for that calm atmosphere that catches you and for the coastal routes that force you to escape towards its cliffs and that are suitable for all types of legs. In short, a seaside paradise for Dubliners.
PORT TRANSFER
From the train station we went practically straight to the port. The sailboats and fishing boats accumulate in the dock and the colorful houses on the steep streets of the hill that protects it. We walk to the end of the West Pier between illustrious restaurants where shipments of freshly caught seafood and fish arrive non-stop. We take our time to admire the island of the Eye of Ireland (Ireland´s Eye), a sea bird sanctuary which can be visited by boat (from 20 euros), while we delight in the seafaring movement of the pier.
In it, we find in the Howth tourist office the best place to get in situation and to plan the hiking routes. To realize that everything goes at a different pace here, the best thing to do would be to get lost in its hilly streets and browse through its traditional taverns, its cafes and its well-cared food, handicraft or naval items shops . In our search for the best views of the port, we discovered places such as the ruins of the church of Santa María (6th century) surrounded by a small cemetery, and the Martello Tower, which guards the anchorage from the hill and houses a museum about Radio.
ONE PENINSULA AND FOUR ROUTES
Howth Head is a squat-shaped peninsula located 15 kilometers northeast of Dublin. Its outline is sculpted by cliffs up to a hundred meters high and long sandy beaches, while its green interior is dominated by the Howth Summit (171 meters), a hill surrounded by moors of heather and gorse where the inhabitants of the capital go to let off steam in their s idyllic golf courses with sea views.
port transfer
**Cliff Path Loop, Tramline Loop, Black Linn or Bog of the Frogs Loop **. There are four routes that start and end at the train station to explore this landscape. From least to greatest difficulty, they will satisfy both Sunday hikers and hikers with their tours along the rugged coastline lasting between an hour and a half and three hours, six to 12 kilometers long and slopes of up to 240 meters. It won't be a technical challenge, but you will want to hit the trails, breathe some fresh air and merge with this protected environment as part of a 2.3 square kilometer Special Conservation Area.
If you're still in doubt, imagine climbing to the top of the Nose of Howth precipice just before you lose sight of the harbor and continuing along dirt tracks that weave through bushland to skirt sheer cliffs. To the north you can see in the distance Lambay Island and to the south the Baily lighthouse, Located on a narrow headland from where it has guided ships to the cove since 1814. The path continues to the top of Howth to offer us the best views of Dublin Bay and Wicklow County in the background.
Back in the village and before losing ourselves in the temptations of the sea, we will stop at the ** Howth Castle ,** hidden next to the entrance. Its origins date back to 1235, and its ownership by the Gaisford-St Lawrences family for 800 years. Although it is not the Neuschwanstein , is well worth a short visit, if only to admire its surrounding gardens, the ruins of St. Mary's Abbey (1042) and Corr Castle (6th century) or the dolmen known as Aidenn's Tomb. Howth Castle is open to the public for guided tours in the summer months (€20) and is home to the cookery school Kitchen in the Castle.
One of Howth's trails
WEST PIER, SEAFOOD AND ACTION
Anyone who doesn't come to Howth for the walks will come for the seafood, and those who only come for the walks will also succumb to the treasures of the Atlantic, just like that.
At noon, the West Pier it becomes the most vital point of Howth. On one side, fishing boats, and on the other, restaurants, fishmongers, markets and seafood restaurants in total communion. It is seen, smelled and tasted. As if there were no incentives, on some occasions, live music is heard in the street, and on others, at gray seals ordering their lunch from sailors and tourists. The traveler will have to make the hard decision to choose between the many restaurants and venues that pay homage to the Irish seas with their fresh fish and shellfish. Here are some ideas.
start with a seafood chowder, a delicious fish stew ideal for windy or rainy days; look in gourmet markets like the one in Beschoffs the best oysters and prawns to eat right there, at the bar; try the cod in The Brass Monkey, the salmon in The Ear House , the line on the aqua or the fish “n” chips at either. Deep , Octopussy´s , Crabby Jo's ... in these shellfish restaurants they have managed to maximize the concept of this classic of British fast food. Of course, whoever comes here does so for the seafood and grilled fish, where it is eaten in all possible ways: in tapas, in refined compositions or to take away and eat it on a terrace in the sun.
Before you take the DART back to Dublin, stop by the Howth Market to shop for Irish crafts, handmade jewellery, antiques or any organic food or international food you can think of. If night falls on you, think of pubs like The Abbey Tavern Y The Bloody Stream and in a perfect excuse to delight in performances, live music and some good pints to say goodbye to ** your new favorite town in Ireland .**
Beschoffs delicacies