Gastronomic Coruña neighborhood by neighborhood, enjoy!
We have all heard about how good it is to eat in Coruña, of its fish and shellfish, of the Betanzos-style tortilla, of the empanadas and the octopus.
But there is a gastronomic Coruña that goes far beyond clichés, that goes unnoticed by a large part of the tourists and that is worth exploring neighborhood by neighborhood, like any other Coruña:
Bocanegra, a place with an industrial air with an open kitchen and a menu according to the market
MARIA PITA
We start the tour through the heart of the city, through the Plaza de María Pita, through the terraces of the Marina and its surroundings.
Without leaving the square, ** Arallo Taberna, ** which has a twin sister in Madrid, offers the most traveled and carefree version of A Coruña cuisine in a place without reservations, without desserts and without coffee that is worth knowing.
If what you are looking for is something more classic, with a Galician cuisine with the right dose of updating and where the product commands, You will only have to travel just a hundred meters. ** Pablo Gallego ** will make you forget in his pleasant place of the same name, that you are in the epicenter of tourism in the city.
Next to the Rosalía de Castro Theater you will find ** Bocanegra, ** popular thanks to its squid sandwich (it's very good, I can vouch) but where can they surprise you with dishes with more depth like a hake with grapefruit or a spicy squid stew.
To finish, do not forget to visit shoot cafe, a tiny place that can go unnoticed but in which coffee culture is taken very seriously.
Finish your route in María Pita with a delicious coffee in Dispar
THE OLD CITY
t is the perfect area to wander around, have a coffee in one of its medieval squares, visit a Romanesque church, a small museum such as the Colegiata or, when the time comes, make a stop at Raw , one of the places that has been the most talked about in recent months, to try things as tempting as their haddock with velouté of oloroso and chipotle or her shepherd fish taco, with hake, achiote, kaffir lime mayonnaise and jalapeños.
SPAIN SQUARE
It is the natural link between the María Pita area and the Montealto neighbourhood, one of those places that alternate terraces, traditional venues such as ** A Pulpeira de Melide, with what many consider to be the best octopus in the city** – don't forget to ask for their potatoes, which are served separately, and leave room for their omelette and the suggestions on the blackboards, which usually include very tempting things– and more current proposals such as Crumb, the small restaurant in which Adrián Felípez offers a contemporary version of the local cuisine.
Raw, the place that is on everyone's lips
MONTEALTO
The working-class neighborhood in the center of the city, almost an independent republic with its own character, combines traditional taverns and grocery stores, such as O Bebedeiro and O Fiuza with more current proposals.
Albert's is a classic among people from Coruña while Hokuto Tavern combines the Japanese technique with the local product in a unique proposal.
THE CROSSING GALERA - BARRIER
These two streets are home to much of the most interesting tapas in the city. Lovers of old-school taverns can't help but stop by O Tarabelo or La Bombilla and indulge in their traditional tapas –parrochas (sardines) and pickled mussels in one; broth, tortilla or some good fries in the other–.
Vinoteca Jaleo, Peculiar, Alma Negra, Pachinko, Vita-K, Taberna da Galera... It does not matter if you are looking for something more informal, a restaurant or a good menu of the day, local cuisine or exotic influences. Here you will find something to measure.
But for staying with only one, Martinez Vermouth offers the perfect balance between vermouths and a small product bar in which you can find a red tuna belly ready to go on the grill as well as some minchas (winklers) or a more than correct empanada.
Alberto's, a classic from the Montealto neighborhood
THE AXIS OLMOS - STAR
If you haven't had enough with the Galera and Estrella shops, or if you start from the other side, the axis continues along Calle Olmos, with Cheese Me either Warehouse Concept Store.
We are now in Calle Estrella with a classic of the best product of the sea such as To Mundiña and, next to him, ** O ** Lagar da Estrella , one of those places always full of local public, in which You have to try their classic eggs with Norway lobsters and then, if you want, continue with one of their marinated fish, maybe a rice...
At Lagar da Estrella, local fish is king
BETWEEN PLACES
The triangle formed by squares of Lugo, Vigo and Ourense, a little further west, it also has a lot to offer.
If you visit it in the morning, be sure to stop by Market of the Praza de Lugo, perhaps the best stocked fish market in Galicia and complete your purchase with a selection of artisan cheeses from Praza de Vigo cheese factory, surely the best cheese shop in the province.
If it's time for an aperitif, come to O'Secret Tavern , one of those places where wine lovers will enjoy like a child in a park, while you think about where you are going to eat: culuca, that we were talking about recently, and Bido They are two great options in the area.
Praza de Vigo cheese shop, surely the best cheese shop in the province
THE STARRY
If you travel to Coruña gastronomically, you cannot miss its starred restaurants.
** Alborada, with Iván Domínguez at the helm,** offers a radical cuisine without disguises, essential, for lovers of the Atlantic product.
** Árbore da Veira, by chef Luis Veira and his right-hand man Iria Espinosa, ** presents an up-to-date cuisine from A Coruña that is not lacking in more playful winks.
Don't get distracted, because he is about to change his small place on Calle San Andrés for a space with spectacular views on Mount San Pedro, the best viewpoint over the city.
Alborada: radical cuisine and quality product