Baños de la Reina: swimming among archaeological sites in El Campello
Once upon a time there was a Moorish queen as beautiful as capricious. So much so that the sea was never enough for her and she needed to have her own private pool in the most remote place from her. That was how, at some point on the coast of the current town of El Campello , in Alicante, her court ran into a peninsula butted by an ancient Roman fish farm . These deposits, built hundreds of years ago, had been erected by the great mediterranean empire in other points of the coast such as the current Calp to extract and collect as many fish as possible. This is how these natural pools, cut by the pattern of history, became the exuberant Baths of the Queen.
The tip of the tongue of land that today forms the Illeta dels Banyets (also known as The Islet ) is the jewel in the crown of an archaeological site next to the El Campello Marina, which was once a peninsula. After an earthquake, it was divided giving way to an island and, already in the 1940s, a certain “tinker” reconnected the island with the land in a bad way through an isthmus.
Although today, those errors seem blurred by the many blues that surround this site made up of remains of Roman baths, Iberian ruins and vessels dating from the same Bronze Age . But especially, for the reward of walking a path traced to the most historic pools on the Costa Blanca.
THE MOORISH QUEEN THAT PRACTICED SNORKELING
Early or at sunset. There is no middle ground when visiting the Queen's Baths if you want to enjoy this little paradise without crowds or Sundays. Although the sand here is not styled, the rocks that surround the old fish farms they keep salt stains and reckless seagulls will not hesitate for a moment to approach your towel looking for Cheetos. It's just a matter of choosing the moment to feel like a privileged swimmer. If, on the other hand, you don't mind sharing the beach with other people, The Baños de la Reina is the ideal place to spend the day.
Illeta dels Banyets
After unfolding the hammock and the table (here the umbrella is not welcome, but everything is to try), the Mediterranean awaits among the remains of natural rafts that draw this complex of many shades: in the sunlight, it is a translucent emerald green And as the day progresses the blues are confused naked, full of tonalities.
The Baths of the Queen not only is it the closest thing to a natural sea pool , but it completely transforms the concept of "beach" turning it into a more playful and curious one. The coastal rocks open to the sea in different ways: through two large sea trenches and the perimeter of the ancient submerged pools , all of them connected through small caves forming a labyrinth for the senses.
In fact, as long as you respect the experience of other visitors, you can jump into one of the pits from the rock itself. And stand on each section while, not far away, you can hear the cry of joy of a child with his diving goggles. It is the first warning of a bottom covered with hundreds of minnows.
As a suggestion, yes, we recommend not using the fishing rod in a public space like this. A more usual practice than you imagine in some corners of the bathrooms and that it endangers both adults and, especially, some children who came here looking for fish, not bait.
The practice of diving and snorkeling It is almost a must in the Baños de la Reina as well as other pastimes: for example, touring the contours of the peninsula and trying out the different beaches (two at each end) or taking photos of the many perspectives while the fish tickle your fingers. Yes, besides you stay at sunset , magic is guaranteed in this little piece of history from which to contemplate a horizon covered in hundreds of roses.
Roman sites of El Campello
HOW TO GET TO THE BATHS OF THE QUEEN
To get to La Cove restaurant, wrapped in lime and bougainvillea, you will find a car park. To your right will be the Club Náutico and the beach of El Campello and, in front of you, the Torre de l'Illeta , a surveillance construction erected in the 16th century by order of the Viceroy of Valencia to defend the coast from Barbary pirates. To your left, the peninsula of La Isleta invites you to start the route.
Upon entering the path, you will find a paid entrance for those who want to visit the fenced site. But it will be there in a corner, where you will see the first bathers camouflaged between caves and secret beaches.
Through the access enabled next to the entrance of the site, we walk through the narrow curves for ten minutes (be very careful here). At some point, you may prefer to stay earlier, or simply find a base port from which to get to know the rest of the peninsula. In any case, if you get to the end of the path (and respect other visitors by keeping a safe distance at all times), you will reach the brand new Baños de la Reina.
Of course, do not forget a certain essential ally to visit the bathrooms. Because surely that Moorish queen never walked the path to her baths with some booties . A complement here required when taking advantage of history.
Illeta Tower