The Marina Corricella, in Procida.
It's ten in the morning and the bells of the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie echo through the peeling alleys of the Marina Corricella. Frightened, a couple of seagulls take flight from its dome to seize a balcony. The wooden shutters of the neighboring houses are still closed. Sitting on a bench in front of the small pier, between tangled nets and colored boats, two grandparents reminisce nostalgically bygone times. Chapped hands, wrinkled skin from the sun... They seem to have a lot to tell.
Almost as much, perhaps, as this Italian island of barely 4 square kilometers in which time is measured by the schedules of the ferries that connect it with the outside world. With a reality in which life is something else. Because Procida always knew –it continues to know– more special than any: emerged, small and contained, from the blue waters of the Gulf of Naples, it is the little sister of the three islands that dot this little piece of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
She is the humble, the serene. The one who lives oblivious to all the luxury and extravagance of Capri; to all the activity and life of Ischia. In short: the unknown. But if they all share something –including the Amalfi Coast, which observes them in the distance–, it is the natural Eden that they offer to their visitors: steep cliffs, dream beaches, towns brimming with magic and their eternal relationship with the sea. Also that I don't know what that tempts those who step on them to never leave.
Fisherman anchored next to the Castello Aragonese, in Ischia Ponte.
Procida is reached after a 35-minute boat ride from the port of Naples. Just enough to feel how the waves rock us gently and that's it: we're here. If in August its few accommodations become somewhat more saturated, during the rest of the year things become very relaxed. The island does not have large hotel chains or luxury resorts. Some small intimate hotels, rental apartments and charming B&Bs are enough for him.
Nico, a native of the island, manages through his company, Gioi Apartments, the rental of small boutique apartments. Several are in the heart of Marina Corricella, the idyllic fishermen's neighborhood that represents the most popular postcard of the island. That this can only be accessed by sea, or on foot, through intricate steps and narrow vaulted arches, has its one.
Facing the Tyrrhenian, and with the amphitheater of facades in pastel colors behind it, Nico recounts how centuries ago sailors painted them to be able to identify them from afar when they returned from fishing. Here you can feel the saltpeter, the smell of that sea breeze that absorbs everything. Clothes hang out to dry from the windows.
The most select Italian delicatessen in Ischia Salumi.
Procida lived predominantly in the countryside until, after its conquest by the Bourbons at the beginning of the 19th century, many changed their farming implements for fishing. Land of abundant rabbits, it was the favorite hunting ground of Carlos III -later also of Fernando IV-, that, as compensation for his exclusive right to practice it, he gave its inhabitants part of the profits from maritime trade. Today, the heritage of that exchange translates into two details: they have the oldest Nautical Institute in all of Europe (1875), and more than half of the population still lives from the sea.
You have to climb the steep hill to Terra Murata, a worn medieval fortress built on the highest point of the island, to enjoy the best panoramic view, even if it means putting our lungs to the test. Up there is also the abandoned Palacio D'Avalos, one of the most disturbing places in Procida. This 16th century construction, which is barely standing today, was originally the home of the D'Avalos family, later it passed into the hands of the Bourbons and, already in 1700, it was transformed into a prison.
It was the Jesuits who, after a revolt in 1848, decided that the prisoners had to use their time in something productive, so they taught them to sew. Linen garments made in Procida reached such quality that they became famous throughout the world. They even represented an economic boost for the island. Touring the prison today, engulfed by vegetation that is at its widest, is sinister as well as captivating.
The charming Sant'Angelo, in Ischia.
So enigmatic is the place that it was strange that the producers of The Talented Mr. Ripley, filmed on the island, did not choose it as a location. The postman and Pablo Neruda were also filmed here, by the way. There are neighbors who still proudly point to the cafeteria where the young postino captivated the one who would end up being his wife. With such ease to conquer the arts, the news that Procida will be the Italian Capital of Culture in 2022 It did not catch anyone off guard, although its ten thousand inhabitants celebrated it in style.
At the western end of the island, Competing with Marina Corricella is another small fishing neighborhood. Marina Chiaoilella is reached by a pleasant walk between houses and chalets whose gardens full of lemon trees can be glimpsed behind the walls. It is Procida land of limoncello, and it shows. The port, where yachts and boats rest, has several peculiarities: it is located on an old volcanic crater, it is located next to the beach with the most beautiful sunset on the island –the Spiaggia della Chiaoilella–, and is linked by a pedestrian bridge to the islet of Vivara, which houses a nature reserve that can only be visited on certain days of the year. Observing it from the terrace of the Crescenzo,** the oldest restaurant in Procida, is perhaps the best plan for a farewell.** Although the journey continues. Ischia awaits us.
Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, in Procida.
Mediterranean elegance acquires all the strength of the universe when setting foot on the older sister of the islands, the second and last stop on our much more popular Italian tour. The largest in size counts, in its 46 square kilometers, with dream beaches such as Lacco Ameno, luxurious resorts that in the summer months hang the full sign, winding paths that explore its interior and a thousand corners waiting to be discovered.
One of those secrets is found inland and has its own name. Although La Vigna di Alberto does not have a sign on the facade, it is in the middle of a road to nowhere and its owner has humor as the day dawns, there will be no loss, because everyone here knows him. Dining in his rustic house, where Alberto himself was born, means enjoying a good Italian-style feast where whatever is available is served, which is always glorious.
But, even better, it means chatting with the host about his life and about the life surrounded by maroon peppers hanging from the ceiling beams, by the light of a couple of candles and while you drink a glass of wine, their wine, grown on the surrounding land, which is pure pleasure.
Nevertheless, to the land where Elisabeth Taylor and Richard Burton let their passion flow during the filming of Cleopatra, Well, it was here where their romance was uncovered, they not only come to eat: also to feel how they emerge from their entrails its fiery volcanic roots, which give it hundreds of mineral springs and fumaroles. In search of a solitary bath in hot springs—with free access and no doors, please—we head south. Very close to the charming town of Sant'Angelo, at the end of a dirt road and after going down 300 steps, you reach Baia de Sorgeto, where the mixture of temperatures in its bubbling waters is the best therapy.
Cacti in the Giardini Ravino.
But the great landmark of Ischia, the Castello Aragonese, stands on a rocky islet in Ischia Ponte, the most touristic area. It was Hiero I who built the original fortress on this site in 474 BC. C., although its current image is due to Alfonso V of Aragon. Inside we cannot miss the old Cattedrale dell'Asunta and its incomparable frescoes, its viewpoints, patios and chapels; neither are its eternal views of the sea.
Although for panoramic views, the one that is enjoyed from the castle, at dawn, from Villa Lieta, one of the few that can boast of that luck. That was what convinced Anna, her owner, to open her B & B here, surrounded by souvenir shops, decorated restaurants and small businesses such as Ischia Salumi, where you can savor the most select Italian charcuterie.
And yes, the smoked bacon is wonderful, but The cactus cocktail —cactus fruit, passion fruit, pepper and chili— is also not bad with which they receive among succulents, lemon trees and peacocks in the Giardini Ravino, the madness that Captain Giussepe D'Ambra carried out in an abandoned vineyard that today houses 5,000 plants and receives 17,000 visits a year. And the crazy thing is not a saying. Many crossed out his project in this way when, in 2006, it opened its doors near the town of Forio. Perhaps they thought that the plants would not arouse passions among tourists, and yet, they were wrong. Blessed madness is the one that allows today to live experiences such as attending classical music concerts surrounded by this orchard.
Because it is already known that the spice of life, what really matters, is sometimes found in what others do not see. Y We have been saying it for a long time: here, in this little corner of the world surrounded by pure Mediterranean, they know that very well.
Mediterranean and hedonistic getaway to Procida and Ischia.
JOURNEY NOTEBOOK
HOW TO GET
Iberia has direct flights to Naples from Madrid and Barcelona, Once there, there are two ports from which ferries depart that connect it to Procida (40 min) or Ischia (1 hour): Molo Beverello and Porta di Massa. There are frequent links with the companies Caremar and Medmar.
WHERE TO SLEEP
in Procida
Gioia Apartments: The boutique apartments of this local company are scattered around the most emblematic places on the island. With spectacular views and all the comforts.
San Michele: Bohemian luxury is the great bet of this little hotel in Marina Corricella.
In these islands you will feel like the protagonists of 'Luca' (Pixar).
in Ischia
Villa Lieta: Wake up with a view of the Castello Aragonese? It is possible in this cute bed & breakfast run by Anna, that offers the best breakfasts every morning on its terrace.
Queen Isabella: The only luxury hotel in Ischia. Its opening in the 50s was in the hands of producer and editor Angelo Rizolli, which expanded the historic Baths of Queen Elizabeth with this exclusive accommodation. It has 128 rooms through which great celebrities have passed.
WHERE TO EAT:
in Procida
Crescenzo: The oldest restaurant in Procida offers the best fresh product from the sea at a good price. His spaghetti with mussels with lemon are a must.
gorgonian (Marina di Corricella, 50): Alone its pasta with sea urchin is already an excuse to test it.
Flamingo Cafe (Liberty, 90): Have an espresso for breakfast as God commands and a croissant with pistachio cream It is the beginning of the day that we dream of.
in Ischia
The Vineyard of Alberto (Giuseppe Garibaldi, 57): Reservations are required and they only accept cash, but the conversations with Alberto and the recipes of a lifetime savored in the patio of his native farm they deserve it.
Ischia Salumi (Luigi Mazzella, 100): Family business specializing in island delicacies, It has been producing all kinds of cured meats for four generations.
Dal Pescatore: With a terrace with views of the enormous rock that is the protagonist of the town of Sant'Angelo and surrounded by boutiques and art galleries, it is the ideal corner to bet on the sweet.
Da Ciccio (Luigi Mazzella, 32): Family restaurant specialist in seafood cuisine, although fame comes from its pizzas.
Viella Lietta.
WHERE TO BUY
Luigi Nappa: The gallery of this sea captain and artist is the climax to a professional career that made him travel and live around the world until you find his passion.
Ceramic Laboratory of Camillo Matera: One of the few that maintains the pottery tradition of Ischia.
TO DO
D'Avalos Palace (Terra Murata, 33): To visit the ruins of this enigmatic place you must request a guided tour at the Procida Tourist Office.
Cavascura Hot Springs (Iesca, 11): The oldest open-air spa on the island. It has Roman baths carved into the cliff and a natural sauna.
Giardini Ravino: Open every day of the week from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. for free visits. If you prefer to do a guided tour (for €16), you need to make a reservation.
***This report was published in *number 146 of Condé Nast Traveler Magazine (Summer 2021) . Subscribe to the printed edition (€18.00, annual subscription, by calling 902 53 55 57 or from our website). The summer issue of Condé Nast Traveler is available in its digital version to enjoy on your favorite device