Loja is one of those incomprehensible miracles that nature offers. It appears almost on a whim, because of the Genil River, a scandalous tributary of the Guadalquivir that crosses the arid Sierra Gorda with the countenance of a great lord.
And in his wake, the water gushes out in lively springs that make Loja its reason for being. Because the history of the water of the Genil is what allowed the one who is one of the most beautiful villages in the province of Grenade, very close to the border with Malaga.
The abundance of spring water was one of the things in which surely Muslims set out to make Loja a great city. Today, up to 42 fountains can be counted, scattered throughout streets and squares that still retain some reminiscences of a n glorious past signed by illustrious names of Al-Andalus. And they all invite you to stop to drink and take a picture, because they talk about the history of the city itself.
Source of the Mora or of the 25 Caños.
CITY OF BATTLES AND ILLUSTRIOUS PEOPLE
Possibly the most lasting imprint of Muslim culture can be found in Loja in one of its greatest treasures, the Alcazaba. It is inevitable to arrive in Loja and go directly to this defensive fortress that was built in the 9th century (although it was finished in the 13th) and It is a Historical Artistic Monument since 1931.
Its state of preservation is admirable, considering that after a dozen centuries keeps the Torre del Homenaje standing, which had to be rebuilt several times due to numerous attacks, the cistern and the octagonal dome.
Here the imagination soars, because it is easy to imagine the sieges in the War for the taking of the Kingdom of Granada. The Torre del Homenaje even preserves the trapdoor through which boiling oil was poured on the invader. This and much more can be found in the Historical Museum of the Alcazaba, located inside the enclosure. in the place that occupied the House of the Christian Alcaides. Of course, it is better to call first to confirm the visit.
Historical Museum of the Alcazaba.
The Alcazaba is located at the highest point of the city, a strategic point that, in addition to serving as communication with the watchtowers, It gives spectacular views from above, especially from the Mirador that is located at the top of the tower.
From there, we make our way down, feeling the humming of the water that gushes out of the pipes of the fountains between resplendent whitewashed houses. Because El Genil wants to make himself felt in this small city who, for those who do not know, has been the mother of great illustrious characters.
The Plaza de la Constitución is our next stop, leaving behind the Tourist Office and colliding head-on with the old Casa de Cabildos, a Renaissance building from the 16th century which was the town hall for more than four centuries.
In the 20th century, the Consistory would move to the Palacio de Narváez. Ramon María Narváez, born in Loja, in addition to being the first Duke of Valencia he was a decisive politician in the History of the Spain of Isabel II. In fact in the center of this square he has his own monument to him.
Narváez Palace was ordered to be built by himself, with the inspiration of a French architect. Narváez wanted a residence in style and got it. Today, in addition to being the seat of the Town Hall, it can be visited for free. In the same way you can visit his mausoleum, although we should go back and go down Antequera street to the other side and leave the Tourist Office behind.
FROM SACRED ART TO GROUCHO MARX
Loja has been in the spotlight of historians and filmmakers. In fact, very close to the Narváez mausoleum is the Sylvania Lookout, one of the fetish locations of goose soup, the famous Marx Brothers movie.
Recorded in 1933, Sylvania threatened the peace of the Republic of Freedonia in a hilarious story that It would go down in history as one of the jewels of classic cinema. Sylvania was Loja, and in that viewpoint history was made. Today it is inevitable to take a photo there, next to some eternal Marx brothers swinging on the balustrade.
In addition, lovers of sacred art find in Loja everything a paradise of religious architecture in all its representations. If we continue in the area of the Narváez mausoleum we can visit the Hermitage of Jesús Nazareno, an 18th-century baroque temple that hides some work attributed to Alonso Cano and a truly impressive altarpiece with Solomonic columns.
Though the Iglesia Mayor de la Encarnación is the benchmark in terms of religious architecture, a collegiate church in Gothic-Mudejar style from the end of the 15th century, inside which is guarded a good collection of artwork.
The other great surprise is found in the Church of San Gabriel de Loja, one of the most exquisite exponents of Granada's Renaissance. This 16th-century temple, a Historic-Artistic Monument since 1991, boasts a beautiful vault with polychrome details and busts in relief where it is sometimes difficult not to lose sight of such perfection.
THERE YOU EAT AND TAPAS… WITH CAVIAR
The gastronomy of Loja we can say that it has its own name and surnames. They have their own club, the porra lojeña, halfway between gazpacho and salmorejo. Experts in ajoblanco and fish stews from Genil, Lojeños do not hesitate to invite a table in which Riofrío caviar is not lacking, as it is in Flati (avda. Andalucía, 40), an obligatory stop in Loja where you have to come hungry. Hungry for their flamenquines made with love, their cod confit or some of those matured meats that on the grill are an operetta for the sense of smell.
To Loja too they come to tapas, because they do it very well there (and they know it). There are many great tapas places in Loja. In fact, near Flati, two good options are La Barrica (Rafael Pérez del Álamo, 1) for lifelong village bar lovers where you can have a wine with a montadito and Alacena (Rafael Pérez del Álamo, 20), a simple restaurant bar for start chopping sausages and finish with sirloin. And so hot!
Well, and it would be a crime to leave Loja without trying their famous donuts, a delicacy that ovens and bakeries compete for of the city to hold the banner of "the best". The meringue shell it reminds us of the breaths of the Alpujarra, but they have nothing to do since the Loja donuts have stuffing. The perfect souvenir.
Loja donuts.
PLUS...
There are many districts that belong to Loja and are well worth a look. One of them is Riofrío, the place where the most appreciated Spanish caviar is produced inside and outside our borders. The visit to the fish farm It can become a whole gastronomic experience.
The natural environment that surrounds Loja and its surroundings are a real scandal. Although it is not necessary to go far from Loja to enter Eden, since only two kilometers away is the Los Infiernos de Loja Natural Monument, a karstic phenomenon with beautiful waterfalls that demonstrate the unruly character of the Genil river. One of the most instagrammable corners is in the waterfall known as the Cola del Caballo.
Natural Monument of the Hells of Loja.
Such is the importance of water in Loja that the city has its own Water Interpretation Center. There are those who play to take a photograph in each and every one of the fountains scattered around the town. The photo that cannot be missed is in the Fuente de la Mora, a beautiful fountain with 25 spouts that is said to have been legendary scenario between the love of a Moorish maiden and a Christian knight.