Old fishermen's houses in Cala S'Alguer, Palamós.
Four things, only four, are needed in Palamós to be happy. Of the 200 kilometers of coastline that the Costa Brava has, we will occupy the scarce 60 meters from Cala S'Alguer.
From the portentous and multi-awarded gastronomy of Girona, we will order a good plate of red prawns from Palamós grilled. From the varied hotel offer in Girona, We will choose to sleep at the La Malcontenta hotel. And of the rich and extensive history of the area, we will stay with the curious story that accompanies the Barraca d'en Dalí, in the surroundings of Es Castell beach.
The fishermen's houses of Cala S'Alguer have been passed from generation to generation in each family.
CALA S'ALGUER
It is not extensive, it is not made of fine sand, you cannot sleep in any of its houses with colored doors and windows and, even so, Cala S'Alguer is one of those places that you have to see in life before you die (as we like to title journalists). Why? Well, precisely because of its uniqueness.
Its origin is documented in the 16th century, when the counts of Palamós gave permission to a local fisherman to build his hut on it. Later, other co-workers followed his example until they raised a historic architectural complex today declared a Cultural Asset of National Interest by the Generalitat.
The traditional fishermen's houses of Cala S'Alguer have a rectangular floor plan and are covered with barrel vaults.
Don't bother looking for rentals online. Don't ask the groups of friends or family that you will find resting or eating under the enviable porches. The answer will always be the same: all the barracks are private family property and have been passed from one (lucky) generation to another (lucky) generation. Also, They don't have running water. only with fresh water wells inside and with deposits to collect rainwater in the upper part in the roofs –with barrel vaults– of each building.
To the south of Cala S'Alguer, we find the Cala de la Fosca –formed by the beach of la Fosca and Sant Esteve (San Esteban)– and to the south, the wild Es Castell beach, a large sandy area with beach bars and a path that leads to an Iberian settlement from the 6th century BC. C. and, beyond, to the secluded cove of Foradada, perfect for snorkeling since, due to the adequate depth of its crystalline waters, it looks like a natural pool.
Playa Es Castell, a wild sandbank surrounded by fields and reed forests in Palamós.
PALAMÓS RED SHRIMP
Canyons and slopes form the rocky and transparent seabed of the Costa Brava, refuge for the red shrimp which, living between 80 and 2,000 meters deep, needs to feed on algae and minerals. A unique 'Mediterranean' diet and specific that makes the flavor of the Palamós prawn is sweeter.
You will recognize it very easily if you closely observe its qualities: the hard and red head must be moist, its texture is firm and crunchy and it must be presented on the plate intact and without injuries.
If you do not want to make a mistake in your choice, we recommend you go to The gel (ice) factory, a restaurant located in Plaça Sant Pere, in the town of Palamós, where they used to transform water into ice and, now, the product of the sea in succulent dishes.
The quiet cove of Foradada.
HOTEL LA MALCONTENTA
Although the name of La Malcontenta is a tribute to a magical woman that everything was compared to the moon and therefore nothing was good enough, really In this five-star boutique hotel, everything is superlative: charming rooms (some even with a private garden), a huge swimming pool where you can spend time and a restaurant based on the seasonal product of the Empordà.
Carrot and orange cream, sausage with beans, fideuà with clams and aioli are some of the dishes you will find on their menu, that you will taste surrounded by nature in an environment as elegant as it is charming.
The Malcontenta (Empordà, Girona)
A STORY ABOUT DALI
The history of Es Castell is strongly linked to that of Mas Juny, an old farmhouse, owned by the Catalan painter Josep Maria Sert (author of the paintings in the lobby of the Rockefeller Center in New York and the mural in the great Council Room of the Palace of the League of Nations in Geneva), through which they passed, among other illustrious personalities of early last century, Marlene Dietrich, Coco Chanel, Visconti and a young Dalí.
After a family misfortune, the property it was sold by Sert in the 1940s to the Puig family. It was the bon vivant Alberto Puig Palau who, after buying the nearby Mas Castell, surpassed his previous neighbor in terms of parties and glamour. Manolete, Ava Gardner, Frank Sinatra... are just some of the names of the guests at his lavish parties, flamenco concerts and bullfights.
Barraca d'en Dalí, next to the cove of Es Castell (Palamós).
Mind you, Alberto (to whom Joan Manuel Serrat dedicated the song Tío Alberto), also had a clear vocation as a patron, so he decided to give Salvador Dalí a small workshop near his country house (today empty, but can be visited from the outside).
known as Barraca d'en Dalí, There are photos of the surrealist genius taken under the threshold of his turned door, but there is no record that he ever worked on it. Let us remember that at that time the painter was already in love with Cadaqués, another one of those places in the world that we should all see before we die...