Zaragoza has been one of the cities that has suffered the most from restrictions during the pandemic. So much so that there are dozens of restaurants, some of them mythical, that closed during the past year and part of the present.
But this begins to be a photo of the past, because Zaragoza begins to move, to reinvent yourselfto make noise again. Because the capital of the Ebro is one of the gastronomic jewels of our country and has just opened a new stage. We eat, we cover, we drink Somontano and we discover the reasons why Zaragoza has returned to the gastronomic scene. and has done all the way up
Borage with clams.
BORAGES, TERNASCO AND SIGNATURE CUISINE
The banks of the Ebro have served as backbone for all the gastronomy of Aragon in general and Zaragoza in particular. We are in a land rich in fruits from the orchard thanks to the climate of contrasts that we find in all the Aragonese territory.
Especially when we point to borage, a cousin of thistle that is in season right now and is very typical of the Zaragoza table. The borage, that great forgotten of our field, much appreciated by the French in their kitchen and that here in Zaragoza it acquires a very peculiar role.
we are too in the land of crumbs, lamb, slaughter and chilindrón chicken. All of them sticking their heads out of the menu of any self-respecting restaurant in the city center, both in its traditional version, as in lamb (Cinegio, 3), as in its most avant-garde modalities such as those of Cancook (Juan II de Aragón, 5) or La Prensa (José Nebra, 3), the two Michelin stars of Zaragoza.
But with its differences, those that may exist between the classic that has been reinvented and the creative newcomer where staging is an essential ingredient of its menu. The reservation waiting list continues to roar and that is a sign of good health.
People from Zaragoza are liking signature cuisine more and more, discover that the flavors of always can be reinterpreted and live new experiences. And they are working on it. In Zaragoza there are also strange people, and they are proud to be. Because Gente Rara (Santiago Lapuente, 10) is one of the gastronomic hypes of the capital of the Ebro, an old mechanical workshop transformed into a haute cuisine restaurant where you will live an entire experience.
They have been around for barely a year, bringing a breath of fresh air to the city, with minimalist rollazo and flavors of before transformed into sophisticated dishes where an eel, a mullet or a pigeon appears. It is undoubtedly the gastronomic must of the moment, although there is more, much more.
Arriving at the Plaza del Pilar, in Zaragoza.
FINALLY TAPAS?
Until a few months ago talking about tapas or going to have some wines with some pinchos in Zaragoza were big words. The Aragonese capital during 2020 was a desert with the restrictions and little by little it seems that the hustle and bustle returns to its streets.
The maños like to hang out in the bars, because they are people who eat well and drink well. If you are one of those who does not know Zaragoza, take it easy because the tapas route here is long.
The incursion into the world of tapas in Zaragoza must be done in the Barrio del Tubo, in the historic center of the city. This tangle of alleys is full of bars and taverns that open practically every day of the week and almost appear between the remains of the wall Caesaraugusta Roman.
In fact, the Puerta Cinegia was located in the Plaza de España, one of the four gates that allowed access through the walls And that can serve as a starting point. From here, under the watchful eye of a large handful of houses that are more than four centuries old, the smell begins to perceive the aromas of each of the premises.
Each with his specialty, like Doña Casta's croquettes (Estébanes, 6) which is one of the essentials. Doña Gracia, at the forefront, surely has the best croquettes in the city, leaving no one indifferent with creations such as black rice with aioli, Cabrales with apple and even chicken with chocolate.
Bodegas Almau, Zaragoza.
Crossing to Libertad street you have to stop at a few heavyweights of the city's tapas scene, with a certain nostalgia since Casa Pascualillo closed last year after 81 years serving its fried garlic sprouts. Here is El Champi (Libertad, 16), where, now that the address has changed, They have decided to bet on recovering the prawn on top of their mythical mushrooms.
With courage you have to go further and get the crumbs from La Miguería, the best way to pair with a Somontano and think only of rolling downhill. And hundreds of other references such as the sherry potatoes from La Ternasca (Cinegio, 3), where the famous lamb from Aragon chair, the meatballs at El Balcón del Tubo (Estébanes. 7), or the wines at Bodegas Almau, open since 1870. And on your visit to Seo del Salvador, do not forget to look for Taberna El Lince to ask for a “Civil Guard”.
CITY OF GASTRONOMIC FESTIVALS
On May 27 in Zaragoza appeared out of nowhere the Zaragoza Burger Fest, a gastronomic event that brought together fervent lovers (and bandits) of hamburgers. And they smashed it. So much so that a light began to be seen at the end of the tunnel after so many months of restrictions. Until the cachopo arrived in November.
Eating cachopo has become a national sport, that is more than obvious. And in Zaragoza they were not going to be less. And it is that the people of Zaragoza, who are good eaters, have known very well how to take advantage during the month of November which means sitting at the table in front of a good cachopo.
Zaragoza has wanted to give the 'cachopada' celebrating during this month its first edition of the Cachopo Fest, a foodporn conference that has brought together no more and no less than 41 establishments willing to show that in Zaragoza they know very well how to prepare a good cachopo.
Zaragoza is also to savor it.
And the cachopo has come to the capital of the Ebro to stay, because the Festival del cachopo has been a complete success. Starting from the cachopín for beginners to more sophisticated elaborations with truffled poached egg and piquillo pepper mustard sauce. We have even come to attend creations where cheeses such as Idiazábal or Cabrales have had a great role.
The resurgence of the Zaragoza hotel industry with these top initiatives have led to the creation of the brand Zaragoza Food Festival, quite a declaration of intent a Phoenix Bird that is reborn from its ashes and is bringing life back to a city so punished by the “bug”.
The capital tomorrow is now a gastronomic destination to be taken into account, a city that has proven to be creative, authentic and above all surviving and delicious.