Church of San Andres
Ponferrada it's found south of Asturias and east of Galicia and shares many elements with both communities, both in terms of landscape, gastronomy and culture. Although beyond these influences, it is an area with a marked identity of its own, in which a feeling of “love for the land” very entrenched.
Plus, it's a real paradise for lovers of good food and drink, so we are prepared to taste its most typical delicacies such as the botillo, the berciana empanada and the cecina. And, of course, don't miss a good DO Bierzo wine to toast, because the Bercianos know that the best time to celebrate is… always!
Ponferrada, capital of El Bierzo
FRIDAY AFTERNOON
Ponferrada, located in a valley surrounded by mountains , is a multisensory city where you can have fun, soak up culture and savor life with its exquisite gastronomy.
The Camino de Santiago passes through here, and that's where its name comes from. Around the Eleventh century ordered to build an iron bridge so that pilgrims could pass over the river that runs through the city, the Sil River , and that is how the name of its town originated, **'Pons Ferrata', which means 'Iron Bridge'. **
6:30 p.m. "Don't leave for tomorrow what you can do today", so we start by getting to know its crown jewel: the Castle of the Templars. The current construction is the result of works undertaken over centuries for different lords, counts and kings.
We get into the time machine to travel to the Middle Ages in which the templars raised this 12th century fortress to protect the pilgrims who entered the Camino Frances de Santiago. We go directly to library Templar to get up close their books and copies that remained hidden for hundreds of years and are authentic treasures of history.
We pass through a part of its wall that delimits a total of 8,000 square meters and we lose our sight a bucolic sunset nails on panoramic views of Ponferrada . Hey, it's the perfect time to take a selfie and remember our getaway forever.
castle at sunset
8:30 p.m. After the visit, we decided that it is time to give our palate an explosion of flavors with an avant-garde cuisine with typical local products . We chose the MUNA restaurant, which is right in front of the castle.
In command of their stoves are Samuel Naveira and his wife, Genesis Cardona , who have occupied the third place in the Madrid Fusión 2020 'Revelation Chef' contest. They have an extensive menu but we ask for the tasting menu (€49).
Would you like to start with a trout French toast from Sanz Fiz, goat cecina croquettes and vintage broth? Shall we continue with a crayfish rice? And a grilled fish? And have you tried his ensaimada stuffed with rabbit and mushrooms? They are small plates, which allows us to try their great gastronomic offer. We leave a small gap for their homemade desserts.
11:00 p.m. The place we choose to spend our nights in Ponferrada is the Hotel Aroi Bierzo Plaza, in the town hall square , in the old part of the city. It is a small hotel with a very special charm and with three restored mansions from the 17th century. We just arrived and we already feel at home.
SATURDAY
9:00 a.m. It dawns in Ponferrada and we decide to take a walk around its traditional market on the banks of the river Sil. Girl, these bras are uplifting! We laughed but let's go straight to the churros stand , that really raises it for us as soon as we eat the first one dipped in chocolate. We get lost in the market of this city known as the “Spanish Ohio”.
Views of the square from the Hotel Aroi Bierzo Plaza
Why? Well, because the electoral results of the municipal elections of Ponferrada they reflect what later comes out in the general elections. And this has been happening from democracy, without failing even once . What an aim the ponferradinos have!
11:00 a.m. We make a stop at Mercado de Abastos, located in the middle of the market , we walk its corridors and contemplate the genre on the counters. Fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, seafood... The variety is indescribable and we bought some vacuum packed jerky to take a piece of bierzo to our house.
We go up to the top floor, which they call Plaza Gourmet, and although the offer of bars and cafes makes us doubt we choose La Crepería (gluten-free) for breakfast. we ask a sweet crepe white chocolate and another salty ham and cheese . You can tell that its owner, José, has been making crepes for more than 30 years, since 1985 , They are delicious.
12:00 p.m. We get lost in the streets of the center of Ponferrada and arrive at Plaza de Lazürtegui, the nerve center of the city , in which a festive atmosphere is breathed thanks to some musicians who play happily in the street. we tour the avenue of Spain , a pedestrian street full of small shops and stores that keep this area of the city alive and colourful.
The market is held on the banks of the river
1:00 p.m. We knew that our trip to Ponferrada would be a true gastronomic festival, so it is time to have a little snack and start what Here they popularly call "go round" , in which each drink is accompanied by a generous skewer.
We sat at a table outside the Bar Gundín, with more than 50 years of history, and in which we savor an ear skewer and a cheese skewer Accompanied by a DO Bierzo wine that very kindly recommends us, Miguel, its owner.
As we have to continue with the round we arrive at the Fernando Miranda Square in which they emerge multitude of bars and restaurants in very few square meters.
Although those from "the north" have a reputation for being more reserved, here conversations and relationships flow at the minimum of change. In the north you can also breathe art and a lot of joy, man! We sat in the covered terrace of La Bodeguilla , its ham skewer with tumaca bread it's finger licking good.
3:00 p.m. We left the city center and in 20 minutes we go up to the old town . We have to lower the skewers to make room for our first Ponferradina meal. We arrive at Town Hall Square and we sat on the covered terrace of the Violet restaurant. From here we can see the most important square in the city, with its baroque tints.
In this restaurant they have a wine cellar with a great variety of wines from all parts of Spain, We opted to try the typical ones from the area that your meter recommends.
We know that this is the perfect enclave to savor the best wines because this area has more than 80 wineries , which they make godello and mencia , among other varieties.
the godello It is a white wine with fruity notes: peach skin and citrus . It is fresh, balanced and also goes down very well. While Mencía wine is a red wine with an aromatic flavor , a characteristic velvety palate and flavor of the land in which it has been grown.
We learn a little about wine since this area is DO for 31 years , although with a long tradition of more than two thousand years. Shall we order some botillo dumplings to accompany the wine? Or do we try to make room and better a good berciano botillo with vegetables? Come on, you have to try it!
the bottle It is the most peculiar product of this land, the king of Bercian gastronomy since time immemorial. It is a dish that has been made essential at parties, celebrations and especially in winter time . It is mainly composed of pork rib , to which is added salt, paprika, garlic and other spices.
Tips for foodies: You can't leave the restaurant the violet without trying its great variety homemade desserts like the delicious cheesecake with red fruits and biscuit base, his chocolate tiramisu or his nougat ice cream with brownie.
5:00 p.m. We have to get off the delicious botillo with which we have put on our boots, so it's time to explore the old town. oh before we went up to our hotel Let's freshen up and brush our teeth! This just above the restaurant The Violet.
On one side of the Plaza del Ayuntamiento, we passed under the Arch of the Ages , the only door that remains medieval wall, here it rises Clock Tower and it is one of the emblems of Ponferrada. This arch communicates the **two most important squares of the historic center: the Plaza Mayor and the Plaza de la Encina. **
we hear how the clock shows 5 in the afternoon ("pam, pam, pam, pam, pam…"). After hundreds of years, it continues to mark the good moments of life.
We walk along Calle del Reloj that leads us around the old town . We walk quietly enjoying the silence and peace that is breathed at this time in this neighborhood. We arrived at the square where the Basilica of the Virgen de la Encina, the patron saint of El Bierzo.
Oak Square
6:00 p.m. Next we arrive at the Radio Museum of Luis del Olmo, Ponferradian journalist. This is not a conventional museum because it is located in an imposing 18th century building called La Casa de los Escudos. We didn't think about it for a moment and we entered to discover the radio collection most prominent in Spain.
That last! There are more than 300 devices with exclusive parts , rarities, microphones, emission valves and other objects related to communication, journalism and the figure of Luis del Olmo.
They tell us about the technical and aesthetic evolution of these devices, from the first galena receptors even the little ones 1970s transistors , going through the state-of-the-art digital radio through your sound file.
8:30 p.m. For dinner today we opted for a restaurant with the most beautiful sunset in the whole city and what do you usually have live music . We go up to the top floor of El Casino and, while the sky turns orange and melts into blue to welcome the night, we take a look at the varied menu of this restaurant.
Regardless of whether we choose meat, fish or its various tapas, everything is delicious . This place is a safe bet. We see that they don't stop toasting at other tables so we do the same with “cuturrús”, a typical shot from the area , while live violin music plays.
11:00 p.m. The atmosphere buzzes in every corner of the old town, the streets are full of life. We dare and decide take "the last" in a cocktail bar which is walking three minutes: La Obrera.
we ask a strawberry daiquiri and an irish coffee in this cozy bar with a decoration that does not leave us indifferent. We savor our glass and toast once again, on our last night, for having chosen Ponferrada in this special getaway.
SUNDAY
10:00 a.m. It is our last day, and although we still have several things to visit, we chose The Energy Museum, which also has a cafeteria. We ate breakfast here. Although we are already a bit tired, we know that this is not the typical museum and the effort is worth it so: up the hearts!
We lose ourselves by extensive facilities while a guide explains how electricity was produced in the early 20th century which is part of Ponferradina history in which coal was its fuel and symbol of expansion.
The amazing architecture of its facilities is so surprising and each room is rehabilitated with such taste that they tell us that here Many events have been held, including weddings!
To finish, a walk with views of the river Sil
1:00 p.m. The climax to our 48 hours we do it by giving one last walk under the centennial bridge and on the banks of the river Sil, as we listen to how the water rushes down and hits the rocks in its path.
Meanwhile, we remember some of the corners that we have discovered in this city so unknown to many and that was the venue for the World Cycling Championships in 2014.
In Ponferrada you will always find something to discover, and you will always have something left to find, that is why we take a piece of this city with us in our hearts. An escapade in which If we had to make a wish, it would be to stop time.
We escaped?