El Rocío, in Doñana, one of the stops on this magical 'road trip'
This road trip through Andalusia covers the roads of an essential triangle: Huelva, Seville and Cádiz. It is a little piece of land in the south of the south where there is no shortage of wonderful views, panoramic viewpoints with the sea as a backdrop, aromatic pine forests, marshes and rich cuisine , as well as captivating accommodation where you can disconnect from the world. Of course, you put the playlist.
As soon as you cross the natural border that is the Despeñaperros Natural Park –from Despeñaperros down– and to get into the wave of the summer rhythm (much slower), the most relaxing thing is to cross it along the old road . This way you will enjoy the views and the mountain curves, remembering how you traveled before. In addition, you can stop for breakfast -or whatever- in one of those endearing places along the way, such as Los Jardines de Despeñaperros. On its terrace overlooking the park, the hours fly by.
Head to Seville. And although yes, we are aware that heading (and stopping!) in Seville in the height of summer is a risky sport , the idea is that, if you don't know the city, take advantage of the prices of the charming little boutique hotels in the historic center. Important: have a pool –We love the Hotel Fontecruz, with views of La Giralda–. As night falls, take a walk and cross the river over the Triana Bridge . Goal? dine in Walk of the O seeing the city and the tower of Gold in the other side. A clue: the restaurant De La O and its charming terrace offer Andalusian cuisine with a contemporary touch and an amazing wine list.
Seville in summer is quite a challenge, but the views are worth it
But let's get back on the road. Because to enter a landscape and get to know it while driving, you will have to leave Seville. In just over an hour, you will find yourself in the province of Huelva, which portrays itself in a few kilometers: the Odiel marshes, the sunset on the Avenida de la Ría with the pier in the background…. and the spectacular nature of some of its roads that surround natural parks. few like the Malpica Landscape Road, that goes from El Portil to Cartaya, with those enormous stone pines that cast circular shadows on the reddish earth, and whose intense green contrasts with the blue of the sky. Pure traveling mysticism.
At the height of San Miguel beach, in El Rompido , stopping at the viewpoint at the foot of the road is almost a ritual for travelers in the area. Then passing through Umbria Point , the dunes and the beaches will accompany you during the journey: it is the best time to stop and take a bath in these enormous extensions of fine sand.
Following the N-442 (A-494) that goes from Huelva to Mazagon and that runs in some sections also along the coast, you will find more wild beaches to choose from, like Castile , with its cliffs, the beach of Mazagon Parador wave of breakers , extensions of fine sand where you have to try the classic shrimp cartridge accompanied by ice cold beer offered by street vendors.
The Arrow of El Rompido, framed between the Piedras River and the Atlantic Ocean
The next beach is Cuesta Maneli , the last one before reaching the most urbanized area of Matalascanas . At this point, it leaves the coast to tour the Doñana national park crossing the Charco de la Bota to the picturesque village of El Rocío. Is about a unique environment practically in all of Europe –only the Camargue regional park bears some similarities to it– which must be visited in a romantic key. For example, enjoying the sunset in the Coto de Doñana or sleeping soundly and eating some of its rich rice dishes in the charming Hotel La Mavasia.
DIRECT TO CADIZ
Though Matalascanas is only 30 kilometers from Sanlucar de Barrameda in a straight line, to reach it by car you have to do more than 200, and practically return to Seville. Here, as in those adventure books, you choose the route . You can return to Seville and head for Sanlúcar – the ideal plan for those who want to have a homage of wines and tapas in places like La Taberna der Guerrita , with more than 200 references–, or follow this romantic road trip towards Cádiz to then drive to Tarifa, completing 104 kilometers of pure enjoyment behind the wheel.
Let's say we choose Cádiz, and wake up the next morning at the Casa de las Cuatro Torres hotel, overlooking the Plaza de España, a stone's throw from the cathedral. The night before we have already taken a walk through the historic center, and we have tried pork rinds and shrimp tortillas in the castiza Manteca House Tavern.
Cadiz is always a good idea
All that remains is for us to head for Sancti Petri and continue along the CA9001 to visit the summer hotspot, El Cuartel del Mar, in Chiclana de la Frontera, in the middle of La Barrosa beach and next to the Torre del Puerco. You can eat grilled or, if you arrive in the late afternoon, take some of their signature cocktails of the extensive menu, always with the sea in the background, in a building that is an old Civil Guard barracks.
The county road Costa de la Luz It connects one town with another through dozens of roundabouts that link towns such as Cabo de Roche, Conil de la Frontera, El Palmar, Caños de Meca, Zahara de los Atunes… From the Cabo de Roche lighthouse viewpoint to the Atalaya viewpoint there are 14 minutes, and both offer a spectacular panorama and they are options to make small technical stops.
One of the most Martian roads in the province of Cádiz –and the most beautiful– is the section that diverts you from the N340 towards Tarifa along a tiny road –the A2325– towards pigeon point , and that leads you to the beach of the same name behind the giant dune . We walk through it to reach our destination: El Mirlo restaurant, where we will eat one of their whole grilled fish. In the background, on clear days, you will see the Strait of Gibraltar . And here, in the heart of the Parque Natural del Estrecho, with views of the African coast, you will find dotted rustic houses perfect to disconnect from the world, with direct access to virgin beaches where you will only see fishermen.
The fashionable quarter is in front of the sea
You can't miss the Breña Park and Marismas del Barbate , with its dense pine forest on the cliffs and the contrast of the turquoise waters. There are numerous paths to explore it and six kilometers of beaches between Barbate and Caños de Meca to enjoy it in a maritime key. The park can also be crossed by car on the CA-2233. And since you're in the area, make a reservation at the camper , the Olympus of tuna in all its varieties, one of those that will mark a small milestone in your gastronomic history.
In the northern part of the city, you can go up to Vejer de la Frontera, a town that serves as a balcony over the coast, one of those little white villages where it is worth spending the night –or several nights–: it has dozens of charming accommodations and it is a stone's throw from excellent beaches such as Bologna . In addition to its enormous dunes, which even reach 30 meters in height, and the ancient Roman city of Claudia Baelo (from the 2nd century BC), its viewpoints are also noteworthy, with unique views over the Strait Natural Park . Do not miss the archaeological site The Pope's Chair , about 20 minutes on the CA-8202 highway through the Sierra de la Plata. And keep your eyes wide open -and your mouth- along the way, because small artisan dairies, honey shops...
But if there is a classic stop on the Cadiz coast, it is the Strait viewpoint , which is reached by the road that ascends from Tarifa. It takes ten minutes to reach this iconic point at 300 meters high. The tuna sandwiches from its cafeteria-terrace they are almost as famous as their views, which, on clear days, allow Ceuta and Tangier to be clearly distinguished.