A unique southern weekend
Flamenco, tapas or Mudejar architecture often weave a preconceived image of a Seville that no one denies exists -and that should not be missed-, but as he rightly recounted Agustin de Rojas Villandrando in his book The Entertaining Journey at the beginning of the 17th century, “Seville and the world, everything is one, because in it, without a doubt, everything is abbreviated”.
DAY 1
**9:00 a.m. Seville ** is a very walkable city and given the walking tour that lies ahead, it is good to start the day with energy. In The china shop they serve a delicious breakfast , of course fresh orange juice, toast with seeds or white bread accompanied by oil or homemade jams of various flavors, bagels and Serrano ham sandwiches among others, fruit smoothies, cakes and huge muffins... There is a lot to choose from and everything is delicious.
The best breakfast in town?
10:30 a.m. The General Archive of the Indies It was created in the eighteenth century and currently houses more than 40,000 volumes that are a historical chronicle of the voyages of Spanish explorers and conquerors to the New World, including letters from Christopher Columbus or Hernán Cortés . The ordinary visitor does not have access to the documents, but it is worth make a visit , however quickly, to take a look at the building.
The Cathedral and the Real Alcázar They are two of those indisputable places that it would be a sin to miss. And one reason for unintentionally missing them may be the endless queues that depend on what dates and what temperatures are unbearable. For this reason, it is best to buy tickets in advance, both for the Cathedral and for the Real Alcázar.
Seville Cathedral is the largest Gothic-style cathedral in the world and the third largest cathedral on its own – just behind St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican and St. Paul's in London. its lovely Patio de los Naranjos, as well as La Giralda , currently the bell tower -24 specifically- and the most iconic symbol of the city of Seville, are part of it.
Courtyard of the Orange trees
1:00 p.m. Before eating it is worth enjoying the atmosphere -very crowded- and the orange wine ( a sweet wine macerated with orange peel ) , the vermouth Melquíades Saenz or a cane in the tiny Alvaro Peregil Tavern .
Nothing like betting on the modern and casual Seville to have lunch and take a break from the monumental visits. black sheep either mamarracha They are two fashionable places located a few steps from the cathedral. Managed by the same team - led by Genoveva Torres and Juan Manuel Garcia , who trained with masters of the stature of Ferran Adriá, Gordon Ramsay- at Ovejas Negras the duo offers modern dishes, while at Mamarracha they specialize in grilled tapas.
Grilled tapas and fun atmosphere
3:30 p.m. The Royal Alcazar , the royal palace, with its patios, like the one with the maidens , its gardens, its spectacular rooms and the water, whose murmur seems to surround everything, received last year more than 1.6 million views with a 20% increase in visits from Sevillians themselves.
The three buildings ( General Archive of the Indies, Cathedral and Real Alcázar ) have enjoyed World Heritage status since 1987, and in 2010 UNESCO also declared them an Asset of Outstanding Universal Value.
In its surroundings there are street stalls selling dried fruits from the country that are a perfect snack to regain strength.
5:30 p.m. . Not far from this wonderful complex is the little store The lathe , where you will find a good souvenir to take home: sweets and preserves produced in Sevillian convents . There they have the best pastry from the cloistered convents in one place. The jams from the Convent of Santa Paula and San Clemente, the egg yolks from the Augustinians from the Convent of San Leandro and the pestiños from the Carmelite nuns from the Convent of Santa Ana are very popular.
Royal Alcazar
6:00 p.m. Sierpes and Tetuán streets They are the main commercial arteries of the city. There you can find international clothing chains but also some local businesses, such as Casal bags, founded in 1929.
7:30 p.m. The Hotel Alfonso XIII it is one of the best luxury hotels in Europe. Located in the center of Seville, it has been renovated at the beginning of this decade and although staying there is not within everyone's reach, it is worth making a stop to have a drink at the american bar before dinner. Decorated in an Art Deco style that makes you dream of the days when people like Orson Welles, Winston Churchill, Ingrid Bergman or (of course!) Hemingway were dropped around the city, the American Bar is named after the long bar counter, 10 meters long, since in the past the taverns that had such long bars were known as American bars. It is a delight to have a cocktail – of course there are also coffees, beers, champagne, cava or juices – at the bar and enjoy the serene calm away from the hustle and bustle of the city.
American Bar: Churchill was here
9:30 p.m. We went down to more earthly environments, but just as charming and we had tapas in traditional bars, such as the little corner , which boasts of having been founded in 1670, which makes it one of the oldest restaurants in Spain, or Casa Morales , another classic (closed on Sundays) of Sevillian tapas that has been open since 1850. Las Teresas, in operation since 1870 and with bullfighting and religious decoration and its hams hanging over the bar, it is a classic. A little younger -it has been open for seven decades- than the previous ones is the Rosemary Winery (closed Sunday afternoon and Monday), where they serve excellent montaditos de pringá and cheeks.
11:30 p.m.. Anselma House It is already part of the tourist route of the city. Located in the Triana neighborhood, this bar is a good place to enjoy folklore and art in the Andalusian capital. Run by Anselma, admission is free – given the queues it's wise to try to book **(+34 606 16 25 02) ** - but make sure you always have a drink in hand or you'll risk being pointed at by the famous lady with the finger. The show is always closed by a salve rociera.
DAY 2
10:00 a.m. The ** Dulcería de Manu Jara ** in the Triana neighborhood is the perfect place to have a coffee and try their delicious croissants and French pastries, as well as the torrijas.
10:30 a.m. In the Triana Ceramic Center , a two-minute walk from the candy store, you will be able to see pieces by Aníbal González -responsible for the design of the Plaza de España-, as well as part of the equipment from the old Santa Ana ceramics factory (kilns, lathes or boards in where the tiles came to life) . In the museum premises Ceramic activity has been developing since the 16th century and this is part of the origins of the Triana neighborhood.
In the center of Triana, sweets to fall in love with Seville
11:30 a.m. On leaving, we cross to the other side of the river and enjoy the atmosphere on the banks of the Guadalquivir, reaching the tower of Gold . Before indulging in the pleasure of a morning stroll through the María Luisa park –until 1893, the year in which the gardens were ceded by Mary Louise Fernanda to the city of Seville, the park was part of the gardens of the Palace of San Telmo you have to drop by Spain Square.
Built for the Ibero-American exposition of 1929 and designed by Sevillian Aníbal González, the square responds to the regionalist architectural style , highlighting the exposed bricks and ceramics. The 48 benches in the square are decorated with representations of the Spanish provinces – if you are a Canarian, do not be surprised to see that the islands only have one province, by the time the archipelago was divided into two provinces in 1927 the work was already completed, or almost -. It is practically inevitable to take a photo under the representation of your province. Scenes from films such as starwars : the Attack of the Clones, Lawrence of Arabia either The dictator.
In the southern corner of the park is the Archeological Museum which houses everything from ceramic or stone objects from the Valencina de la Concepción Copper Age site to Roman mosaics.
Plaza of Spain in Seville
1:00 p.m. **La Cantina at the Feria street market** is a perfect place for a fresh fish lunch. It is best to be recommended by those behind the bar. If you visit it on a Thursday, do not miss the open-air market that is in the surroundings. The basilica of the Macarena is a five-minute walk from there. A little closer to the María Luisa park is the ** new Lonja del Barranco market **, less traditional than the Feria market and with gourmet dining options.
3:00 p.m. In the Plaza de la Encarnacion is the controversial space Metropol Parasol, better known as The Mushrooms of Seville and designed by German Jurgen Mayer-Hermann . This gigantic wooden sculpture with a viewing platform is very different from the rest of the city and is well worth a visit.
4:30 p.m. The Jewish quarter of Seville occupied three neighborhoods that are currently known as Santa Cruz, Santa María la Blanca and San Bartolomé . It is worth getting lost in its narrow streets. In the Jewish Quarter Interpretation Center of Seville They offer guided tours of the old Jewish quarter. There is the option of making night visits with a prior reservation of one month.
The famous (and controversial) 'mushrooms' of Seville
7:00 p.m. The Red Rooster , a new cultural and creative space where there are always interesting events and it is a good stop in the middle of the afternoon. There you can have a craft beer, like the April ones, and enjoy the natural light and interesting conversations.
8:30 p.m. The farewell dinner has to be in container , a restaurant that defends the principles of the movement slow food -fresh, ecological product when possible and local-, and whose crispy rice dishes (the one with duck and mushrooms is a classic) arouse passions. On Tuesday nights, diners can enjoy live music and in its menu, which changes daily depending on the availability of the product, there are always rice dishes, fresh homemade pasta of the day, fish with scales and seasonal vegetable dishes. Making a reservation is the only way to ensure a table at this restaurant with an alternative soul where art also has its place.
Slow food and live music
Jewish quarter