Our minds go to neighboring France when we are told about the wine route that runs through the mountain range that bears its name. And it turns out not: that it is not necessary to leave our borders to enjoy an unparalleled wine universe . It is in the south of Salamanca, on the border with Extremadura, where this land rich in wines is found, in which the clear protagonist has its own name: the rufete grape.
But the Sierra of France It not only boasts of a unique and exceptional variety from which up to 12 wineries spread throughout its territory are nourished. No way. The Sierra de Francia Wine Route —let's speak properly— also has restaurants, wine bars, accommodation, shops, leisure activities... and even a D.O.P., that of Sierra de Salamanca , under which its appreciated wines are sheltered.
All this, as if that were not enough, with one more addition: the territory in which it is located, in the Sierra de Béjar-Francia Biosphere Reserve and the Batuercas Natural Park , which make up the ideal setting for this dream getaway. How to overcome this?
MASTERCLASS IN SIGHT
But before entering this universe in which vines have spread over mountains full of terraces since time immemorial, we put ourselves in the hands of Mikel Undina , who holds a glass in his hand while he observes against the light the whitish, half-yellowish tone of the white serrano rufete that we are about to taste.
How lucky are those who can boast —as yours truly— of enjoying a wine tasting at the hands of the D.O.P. Sierra of Salamanca. Much better if, in addition, the drinks are accompanied by the rich dishes served at the San Marcos de Cepeda Restaurant –Oh, those tumbling potatoes!; Oh, those Iberian grilled meats!—, one of the 22 municipalities that make up the Wine Route. But let's focus... we got sidetracked.
we raise the cup of white rufete imitating our host before taking the first sip and that the flavors and nuances flood our palate. Immediately afterwards, the explanation arrives: it is this variety of grape a Rare avis that is only found in this area , and of which only seven hectares of land are cultivated. If to this we add that for make a single liter of your wine many more kilos than normal are needed, we come to a conclusion: we are facing something exclusive that not many are lucky enough to taste.
And after the white, comes the red: the rufete grape in all its splendor, also native . In total they are 300 thousand bottles that are produced per year under the D.O.P. Sierra de Salamanca, a wine tradition that was resumed back in the year 2000 but whose origin goes back nearly another two thousand years : there are numerous cave wineries in the area , some dating back to pre-Roman times, which attest to this.
And again a different taste in the mouth. A tsunami of nuances that somewhat reminiscent of Burgundy wines, and it is not surprising: it turns out that in the Middle Ages the region of Salamanca was repopulated with inhabitants brought from Gascony, in France , and perhaps with them came these grape varieties. Also, of course, the name with which the area was baptized: calling it Sierra de Francia —ha!— had its reason.
THE CHARM IS IN THE DETAILS
As we have pointed out, There are 22 municipalities that are part of this beautiful territory full of magical corners. 22 towns in which, between glasses of rufete, get carried away by the charm of cobbled streets, mansions with facades full of stretchers —that's how it's known the wooden beams that cross the fronts of the buildings— and overflowing details of pure history.
Venturing to wander through each of these towns, letting instinct guide you, is absolutely essential when it comes to discovering the Sierra of France. And, beyond the charm that dazzles in every corner, is the environment: the valleys and forests, mountains and peaks that embrace the landscape , are worthy of the most beautiful fairy tale. Something that more than justifies the fact that some of them —seven!— have been declared Historic-Artistic Site. But what did we expect?
We explore, for example, San Martín del Castañar, which with its medieval castle Biosphere Reserve and its church of San Martín de Tours , already catches those who visit it. In every corner of the town, a gardener and a phrase that seeks to recover and teach lost traditional words of the area. On a tour of its alleys you have to get closer to discover its medieval bridge , but also contemplate the explosion of centuries-old pine and oak forests that invite you to get lost in the surroundings.
Not very far in distance, although a little more in kilometers —it is what you have to do to overcome the abruptness of the terrain— are towns such as Villanueva del Conde or Garcibuey , a collected space in which it has been betting, since 2019, on the urban art . The graffiti buey festival attracts the best in terms of muralists and graffiti artists around the world to leave your mark here. A total of 19 works make up a route of about 3.5 kilometers that should not be missed.
But there is more: towns with their own names such as Miranda del Castañar , which imposes and conquers when we reach its square parade ground —the same one that is transformed into a bullring every time the festivities arrive—. Also when facing its medieval castle, which can already be seen from afar: the thick walls that surround the perimeter of the fortress and its four gates remain intact.
Once inside, it's time to explore its narrow and steep streets and its gothic church , stopping to decipher the coats of arms engraved on the lintels of its mansions and its corn exchange. It is the Bodega La Muralla , another temple to wine and traditions for more than 20 years, a stop along the way more than obligatory if you intend to alternate between delicious food.
In the distance, Miranda del Castañar.
In Mogarraz the surprises continue: art is also a constant here, this time thanks to more than 600 portraits made on brass plates by Florencio Maíllo , who decided to immortalize all the residents of the town from the 388 passport photos from 1967 —later more were added— found in a old cigar box
Thus, and since then, those who inhabited and inhabit the picturesque houses of Mogarraz —some of ashlars, others of stretchers, and even there are those who dared with lithographs— decorate the facades of the old buildings with their faces. Nothing like getting lost on purpose in the heart of this unique place before stay in the Hotel Spa Villa de Mogarraz , a most successful decision if you intend to discover the area.
Mogarraz, Salamanca.
But the charming towns continue, and there they are Sotoserrano and its flowery decoration, or Cepeda with its imposing church , its traditional mountain embroidery or its clock tower. Here, as in most of the towns in the area, it was built to avoid having to pay the usual toll to the Church whenever it was necessary to notify of an event. To big troubles, big solutions.
PICNIC, WINERY OR HIKING? HERE IS THE QUESTION
The good thing about this piece of Eden in Salamanca is that, when it comes to inventing excuses to enjoy its innumerable pleasures, the options are endless. Combine good food and the best wine with walks and visits is more justified, and the list of proposals is long: until 56 experiences different can be contracted through the website of the Sierra de Francia Wine Route.
But to inspire a bit — hey, we're good at that — here are some ideas. For example, warm up engines walking : Cheer up with him mycological path that connects Cepeda —declared Magical Town—, Madroñal and Herguijuela It takes us into a colorful postcard that turns color depending on the time of year. This route allows us to follow part of an old Roman road, although if we opt for alternatives such as the Lagares, the Miradors de la Sierra or the Path of Mirrors , the attractions will be others: these are never lacking.
Like, for example, running into a picnic organized especially for you in the middle of the landscape: it can happen on land full of vines that abound in the Camino de los Rodales, a circular route next to Miranda del Castañar . A bite to a good hornazo of the Tahona de Miranda , and a toast with a Tiriñuelo cup, They will be enough to keep you going for several more kilometers.
Terraces in autumn.
Nature is also the protagonist —wow, it is— when we dare to cross the border between Salamanca and neighboring Cáceres to reach the Melero Meander viewpoint : the point from which to enjoy the landscape is Extremadura, yes, but the incredible views are absolutely from Salamanca.
To celebrate the most beautiful picture of the area, again a bit of wine in Sotoserrano: the visit to the Fourth Generation Winery gives us the opportunity to walk among centuries-old vines , discover details about the local traditions in your Wine Museum and taste – did anyone have any doubts? – its rich wines. Soaking them, of course, in exquisite viands such as the delights of Jamones Parra López , which never disappoint.
It's not a bad idea to sign up for another tasting —that's what we've come for, right?—, this time paired with heart-stopping views. Among the ancient terraces conquered by the hundreds of vines Wineries and Vineyards Rochal, that grow to 611 meters high above sea level, awaits another table overflowing with Iberian hams —those from El Valle, on this occasion— and some glasses ready to be filled with new references. The rufete is still the standard-bearer, this time, of the Calixto wines, that we tried with the landscape of the Sierra de las Quilamas and the Sierra de Béjar as witnesses. Chin Chin!
A TABLE SET
And now let's talk about eating itself: sitting at the table and enjoying, relaxed, the good things that they strive to produce in these lands. In the glass, always, a few fingers of native wine: the list of wineries of the Sierra de Francia Wine Route It is, as we have already verified, extensive, and much remains to be discovered.
They will be the ones from the Bodega La Zorra, located in Mogarraz , which probably accompany the delicious croquettes, carpaccios and rice who serve in Restaurant The Native Tavern , just a few meters away. It will not be necessary to move from the town of portraits to choose to give everything to the pig: in Ibéricos Calama, Antonio de Luis takes pains to explain every detail of a company, his, in which he has opted for carry on the family tradition always taking care of the product.
A bite to your Iberian ham freshly cut with a knife is to reach ecstasy, especially if he comes seasoned with a chat between friends and a toast with a glass —ahem— of cambrian, another of the firms in the area. What a pleasure.
You have to get to the outskirts of Miranda del Castanar, where the river France itself runs, to run into a mill today transformed into a restaurant high: El Molino, of course.
Its cozy rooms are the ideal place to dare with one of the most authentic dishes of the entire region: the serrano lemon, among whose ingredients are lemon, orange, egg, chorizo and even fish marinade, it turns out to be—yes, believe us—surprisingly delicious. Silvia's attention will leave the bar as high as the display on the table: the scrambled eggs with black pudding, cochifrito or Iberian meats are excellent options.
Serrano lemon from El Molino restaurant.
And the proposals for the gastronomic feast will end, at least in these lines, in La Botica, the newly opened space that Miguel Ángel and his sister have opened to its usual clientele: the one that has been going for a long time to Saint Stephen of the Sierra looking for your kitchen. A refined and very successful cuisine that knows how to play with the traditional flavors giving them a different touch. It will be time to fall exhausted before its suggestive scallops or its stuffed piquillo peppers, its sticky rice or its kid.
And so, with a stomach full of happiness, the time will come to say goodbye. A temporary farewell - there will be no doubt - to an unknown land but rich in traditions, people and charming towns . Sheltered by those terraces full of vines —and life—, we toast one last time with rufete grapes to the unexplored territories full of treasures. By the Sierra de Francia Wine Route , yes sir.