Rishikesh: spirituality to the beat of the Beatles

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Annual Yoga Festival in Rishikesh

Annual Yoga Festival in Rishikesh

In February 1968, the four Beatles accompanied by their respective partners arrive in Rishikesh, some 200 kilometers north of Delhi, to visit their guru, the yogi Maharishi Mahest . Here, on the banks of the Ganges, they would compose up to forty-eight songs, most of them included in their ** 'White Album' **. Today, Rishikesh is considered the yoga capital of the world and its scenic landscapes are the privileged refuge of those who seek a mystical experience or simply a little peace and serenity.

It's been four years since I last stepped foot Rishikesh , the city where Shiva, the Hindu god, drank poison and his neck turned blue; Today, under the magical light of an October sunrise, the image of the holy ganga (Ganges) winding between the two sides of this little town full of temples, ashrams and Ayurvedic medicine centers.

In the call "Gateway to the Himalayas" it always smells of incense and its streets are a constant bustle of colorful saris, cows and westerners engaged in yoga and contemplation. But we will not allow you to get lost in the midst of so much movement and we recommend: the key centers to meditate, the ceremonies to attend, the best Ayurvedic treatments, a western touch in Rishikesh's musical café and the best accommodations (whether you want a budget plan or if you prefer to meditate like a Maraha).

Rishikesh spirituality to the rhythm of Beatles

Rishikesh: spirituality to the beat of the Beatles

THE WORLD CAPITAL OF YOGA George, John, Ringo and Paul They lived for a month in the ashram of the yogi Maharishi Mahest (currently closed) under whose tutelage they would practice yoga and transcendental meditation. Since then Rishikesh brings together the best gurus of this philosophical doctrine having earned a well-deserved reputation as the yoga capital of the world.

There are courses of a week or a month and every day there are two-hour classes that can be attended without reservation by paying 200 rupees (just under 3 euros). The number of ashrams and meditation centers is innumerable in this corner of the Ganges. Here, our recommendations:

-Sivananda Ashram: attached to the call The Divine Life Society , this ashram has three gurus, direct disciples of Sri Swami Sivananda, and offers Vedanta (yoga philosophy) classes.

-Sri Ved Niketan Ashram: Seven times a year, one-month courses are held that include learning asanas, pranayana, and Hindu philosophy.

-Osho Meditation Center : Rishikesh also has a 'branch' of the famous Osho, the controversial guru who inspired a philosophical movement in the 70's and 80's that was of great importance among the hippies of the time. His exacerbated criticism of other religions and his particular version of Hindu Tantrism defending sex as a way to achieve enlightenment made him a charismatic and controversial figure. the one who was called “sex guru ”He continues to have thousands of followers from all over the world and meditating in one of his centers is, we assure you, quite an experience.

The Beatles surrounding yogi Maharishi Mahesh

The Beatles (along with their girls and Mia Farrow!) surrounding yogi Maharishi Mahesh

RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES Rishikesh is a holy city that attracts thousands of pilgrims from all over India. Its relevance is due to its condition as the starting point of the 'Char Dham' , the four places of pilgrimage revered by Hindus. That is why religious ceremonies and rites abound in the city. These are our favourites:

-Homage to the Goddess Ganges, Ganga Aarti: There are several photographs of the Beatles attending this ceremony on the banks of the sacred river, and John Lenon went so far as to say that it was the ritual that most impressed him during his stay in India. Every day at sunset, in the presence of a huge statue of lord shiva , religious chants (bhajans) and mantras are repeated endlessly in perfect choreography in the Parmarth Niketan Ashram.

Before a fire, the residents of the ashram, dressed in immaculate white, interpret the Hawaiian , a sacred purification ritual with offerings to the God Agni. The offerings, lit by candlelight, are thrown into the Ganges at the climax of a ceremony capable of moving the spirits of the most skeptical. The Ganga Aarti is a ceremony open to everyone. We recommend that you arrive early (about 5:30 p.m. in winter and 7:00 p.m. in summer) to get a good seat and fully enjoy the atmosphere.

-A new day: Every morning sunrise is celebrated in the ashrams with the chanting of bhajans and mantras in a unique ritual. Yoga and meditation students join the child priest apprentices in an intimate ceremony, perfect to start the new day in "total spirituality". You will find them everywhere but those of the Divine Life Society Ashram they are especially interesting.

John Lennon sings 'Prudence Come Out and Play' in Rishikesh

John Lennon sings 'Prudence, Come Out and Play' in Rishikesh, where they wrote some 48 songs

AYURVEDA OR 'KNOWLEDGE FOR A LONG LIFE' Although the cradle of ayurveda is actually in Kerala, in recent years a multitude of centers of this system of traditional Indian medicine have proliferated in Rishikesh. And it is that someone must have thought, correctly, that if we were to immerse ourselves in the spiritual world and healthy life, why not do some herbal treatment and natural ointments.

Put to try everything, we have visited the doctor ML Maurya . This competent doctor with long experience in Ayurvedic medicine determines the type of profile of each person (the so-called dosha ) through the analysis of the pulse, eyes and tongue. Based on this profile, a plant-based treatment of health problems (if any) and adapted feeding guidelines are established. The consultation of about 15 minutes costs 300 rupees (about 4 euros).

The process is usually completed with purifying body massages , the panchakarma (This is the best part) . The 7-day treatment costs 11,000 rupees (157 euros) and although I could not claim that all the problems disappear, at least one ends the sea of ​​relaxed.

Rishikesh birthplace of yoga

Rishikesh, birthplace of yoga

60'S COFFEE More than a place, the 60's Café It is the experience of an unforgettable time. Only open in January 2012, this cafe located in Laxman Jhula it is the perfect place to literally relax at sunset. While the sun hides in the icy waters of the most sacred river, while the landscape is bathed in saffron dyes, in the 60's the chords of the music of The Doors , Jimi Hendrix , bob dylan and of course the Beatles They transport us to the time of the _hippie_s and those others who dreamed of changing the world.

Your owner, Keith, you're a real sweetheart . This young entrepreneur, only 25 years old, dreams of expanding his project all over the world. For now, he lasts the hotel construction (in the same building as the cafe) with rooms almost touching the Ganges and decoration (of course) from the 60s.

The food is especially good, combining Indian food dishes with more western ones . Now yes, neither here nor in the rest of Rishikesh expect to find some meat. Keith tells us that Ringo Starr and his wife weren't too fond of a vegetarian diet. This would be one of the reasons why both would leave the legendary meeting of the Beatles in India two weeks earlier. Whether or not you are a vegetarian, we assure you that you can eat very, very well here.

oh! and do not forget to take a souvenir, Keith records the music you hear in his cafe (the same one I hear right now as I write this article). Oh yeah!

ananda himalayas

Ananda Himalaya = Luxury + Meditation

ACCOMMODATION Low budget version: India is undoubtedly the most appropriate place to travel in times of crisis. In Rishikesh you will find a wide range of guest house and simple little hotels at ridiculous prices. There is also the option of stay in an ashram at the same time as taking classes, although the rooms are usually very spartan. For a total experience, we recommend Ayur Pack (in the Laxman Jhula area), a beautiful house with a dream garden run by a friendly Indian couple, experts in Ayurvedic cuisine. Nervous or stomach problems? Don't worry, Vishal Gupta recommends the best dish for you to end all your problems, and if not, it will still be great. The rooms, new, clean and beautifully decorated, cost 500 rupees per night (about 7 euros).

Marahas Luxury : For deeper pockets, Rishikesh offers more and more luxury options. And within this range, the perfect option, without a doubt, is the Ananda Himalaya (opened in 2000), an ancient palace of a Marahá with scandalous views over the Ganges and the mountains of Narendra Nagar. Its Spa is considered one of the best in the world. (the 'normal' room costs 18,000 rupees, about 258 euros, and one of the villas with a private pool 75,000, about 1000 euros per night).

For those who are not so rich in finances but without much backpacker spirit, the Glasshouse Hotel is the perfect alternative (rooms from 6500 rupees, about 93 euros).

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Glasshouse Hotel

Have breakfast at the Glass House Hotel on the banks of the Ganges

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