Panoramic view of Naples.
Cyrus Olive , a fourth-generation pizzaiolo, makes some of the best tarts in Naples at Concettina ai Tre Santi . To mark the 70th anniversary of his pizzeria, Oliva launched a rebranding this summer with a meticulously researched vegetarian initiative. Garden-inspired foods on his new menu include "Green Boom" pizza, an homage to the farm from which he sources his produce.
This interview is part of "The World Made Local" , a global project of Condé Nast Traveler in the seven international editions , which gives voice to 100 people in 100 countries to find out why his own territory should be your next destination.
How would you describe Naples in his own words?
Naples is a fascinating and enriching city on the sea, steeped in centuries-old traditions, all set against the magnificent backdrop of the Vesubio mont . But above all, Naples embodies an energy rooted in its people. To really "arrive" in Naples, you have to absorb its energy. you have to listen to the traffic hum , the roar of scooters and horns, and you have to meet and talk to people. Neapolitans are warm, welcoming, lively and incomparably hospitable. Naples has a big heart and the people are the heart of Naples. Seeing the kids in their Maradona jerseys kicking a soccer ball around Rione Sanita (where I grew up and still live and work), the Spanish Quarter or the neighborhood Aranello captures the true spirit of the city.
Tell us something about your connection with your city
I live in the best pizza city in the world and I make pizza. It's humbling to be able to do what I do here. People from all over the world come to Naples not only for the Neapolitan pizza, but also to eat at Concettina ai Tre Santi , and I am very grateful. I am the fourth generation pizzaiolo in a pizzeria my great-grandmother founded in 1951. When I was a child, she helped my father at work every day, but my parents wanted me to forge a different career. They wanted me to be a doctor or a lawyer, and here I am, preparing some of the best pizza in the world . Being part of such an important institution for the culture of the city is indescribably satisfying. Also, Neapolitans have a strong sense of community and conviviality, and I notice that energy in my restaurant every day.
What would you say to someone who comes to visit Naples for 24 hours?
It is a “must” to drink coffee in Naples, and two of the best places to have a true Neapolitan coffee experience are Caffè Gambrinus , in Piazza Plebiscito , a historic bar that is one of the oldest in the city, and Chalet Cyrus , in the district of Mergelina.
You can't come to Naples and not eat pizza either, so have lunch or dinner at Concettina ai Tre Santi.
Other options for lunch are 'O Tabaccaro , one of the best restaurants in the city located in the Castell dell'Ovo , the 12th century Norman castle on the water. The specialty is seafood - I love the clams and mussels, and the mozzarella and tomato bruschetta is also delicious.
For dinner, my three favorites are: L'Altro Cooloco Y Terrazza Calabritto they are great for contemporary seafood, and when I feel like sushi, I go to the Japanese restaurant J-Contemporary.
What to buy and where to buy it?
If you are going to buy something in Naples that is typical of the city, it would have to be a Christmas figure in Marco Ferrigno in Saint Gregory Armenian , the street dedicated to this type of shops. In addition to traditional figures such as the Virgin or the baby Jesus, the artisans also create personalities such as Maradona, global politicians and even movie characters.
Where would you recommend him to stay?
The Atelier Ines is a B&B/art gallery in the Rione Sanita . The owners are Vincenzo Oste, a jewelry designer, and his wife and his artist, Inès. Vincenzo's father is Annibale Oste, one of Naples' most famous contemporary artists, and the B&B houses several of his works.
What is the best view of Naples?
From Via Petrarca and from Via Orazio. The view from the first is a little closer to the water, with a wide panorama of the sea, the port, the castle and Vesuvius. The other also has views of the sea and Mount Vesuvius, but is set a little further inland, capturing some of the city's colorful and distinctive architecture.
Why should we travel to Naples (when we can)?
There are people who hesitate to come here because of security issues. You have to be careful in certain places, but that should not deter you: there is no other place like Naples. It's a city vibrant and lively . Have culture, museums amazing artworks, royal palaces , the subsoil and a volcano . We have beaches. We are close to Pompeii. We have the best food in Italy. I can go on and on. But above all, what really makes Naples unforgettable are the Neapolitans. They welcome everyone with open arms, and it is their energy and their work that will remain in your memory. Naples is a beating heart and the city will steal yours.