get ready, because we will not stop in this 48 hours in Reykjavik. Surprising and unique, authentic and cosmopolitan, to walk through the streets of the capital of Iceland is to discover a city brimming with soul that surprises with its varied cultural offerings, its attractive culinary offerings and the overwhelming nature that surrounds it.
When you land on the land of ice and fire , in that of the impetuous volcanoes Y overwhelming glaciers who live in relative harmony, and put their feet in its modern capital , there is a clear trend that few of us can resist: that of throwing ourselves headfirst into the street ready to soak up its atmosphere.
And it happens, among many other things, because Reykjavik It is the main city of a country in which approximately 350,000 people live, a large part of whom are concentrated in the city itself. An open and welcoming population from which more than 10% are immigrants : here, life goes by without more surprises than those that nature itself, from time to time, gives them.
Willing not to miss a corner of the northernmost capital on the planet Whether under the midnight sun or with the company of Aurora borealis , we start 48 hours dedicated to Reykjavik. What, are you in?
Colorful houses in Reykjavík.
DAY 1: THE ZEN SIDE OF THE CAPITAL
9:00 a.m. The day begins in Reykjavik with a rich breakfast -The day is complete.
Despite its small population, it is a reality that the country has been receiving large amounts of tourism for years eager to discover its treasures, so the accommodation offer is quite extensive.
The Center Hotels Laugavegur, one of the hotels of the Center Hotels chain, located at one end of the most commercial street Reykjavík, is our place: modern, simple and practical. Why do we want more?
10:00 a.m. It didn't take long for us to start kicking up and down a historic quarter which, quite contrary to what characterizes other European capitals, it lacks skyscraper and of businessmen in suits and ties who run from one place to another carried by eternal anxiety.
In the Laugavegur shopping street.
Here there are no horns at all hours , the pollution caused by endless traffic jams or commercial franchises. Nevertheless, local abounds.
To explore their daily life we go through Laugavegur , the longest avenue. On both sides, houses and premises with two or three floors give life and color to the scene with its facades in pastel tones . Once in a while, attractive murals they make clear the love for the urban art of this city.
Souvenir shops abound, which have multiplied in recent years. Also they flirty cafes where to warm up with a hot chocolate, the designer shops and the fashion ones: in their shop windows, no matter how much time passes, the popular sweater lopapeysa he is still the protagonist.
A mural in Laugavegur street.
11:00 a.m. We avoid-or not-the temptation to enter each of the businesses, before reaching the monumental icon par excellence of the city: the tower of the unique Lutheran church of Hallgrímskirkja.
Inside, religious images and icons are conspicuous by their absence: not even the stained glass windows have drawings, is he minimalism taken to the maximum expression . A huge pipe organ crowns the front door. Sometimes, if you are lucky, you can coincide with the organist on duty filling the space with heavenly music for the faithful.
To go up the tower you have to buy a ticket, but the views bird's eye view of Reykjavik they are worth it . Outside again, we salute Viking sculpture Leif Erikson , who supposedly reached the shores of America almost five centuries before Columbus.
Then, it only remains to carefully contemplate the unique shape of the building's façade: the appearance is reminiscent of that of a rocket about to take off in the absence of his particular astronaut… Or wait: maybe not.
Hallgrimskirkja church, with its rocket shape.
12:00 p.m. Just a few meters down the neighboring Skólavörõustígur street, we come across a shop window that leaves us speechless: a black and white image shows the astronaut we longed for walking in front of the Icelandic temple… But hey, what is this?
This is Photography, the Photo shop by Ari Sigvaldason, a professional of the trade who has been putting the art captured by his camera at the service of compatriots and tourists since 2007.
Focused more on photographing the peculiar aspects of his city, than the nature of the country for which so many colleagues travel to Iceland, the walls of his premises are a absolute art gallery.
A mix of instant originals combined with dozens of vintage cameras and a shelf overflowing with Beatles records. The best? Except the records and the cameras, all images are for sale.
In the same street, a couple more businesses to stop : Frida, artisan workshop and shop jeweler's run by Frida J. Jónsdóttir, goldsmith and jewelry designer whose inspiration comes from Icelandic popular culture; and 12 Tonar, vinyl shop where you can listen to the album that most convinces you in situ or have a beer with the best music in the background.
1:00 p.m. At the end of the street, before the intersection with Laugavegur, the ground turns multicolored : Reykjavík has thus claimed, for years, its support and respect for diversity. The walk continues and we do it approaching until one of the recreational areas preferred by locals.
The Lake Tjornin It is a haven of peace in the already peaceful capital, which is only disturbed by the squawks of the more than forty species of birds , such as geese, swans or arctic terns, which inhabit it. Together with him, the National Gallery of Iceland treasures endless pieces of contemporary autochthonous art.
Lake Tjornin.
2:30 p.m. Time to regain strength! And to do it, a sandwich snack and refreshment in another cozy place in the center. In this case, Hús Máls og Menningar, a cultural center whose walls lined with books They are the best company while you snack on something or attend the concert of live music of the day: the cultural scene, as we have already said, is unstoppable in Reykjavík.
3:30 p.m. Moment to enjoy. to blend in with the icelandic customs as tradition dictates. Because geothermal activity has marked the way of relating in the local society since its earliest civilizations, what better way than to have a relaxed chat while we a bath in its pools of lukewarm waters.
To fulfill the task, the offer is becoming more extensive, although we opted for one of the most innovative centers, the Sky Lagoon, located in the capital itself.
In the waters of Sky Lagoon.
To enjoy it in every way is indispensable carry out what they call the Ritual , an experience in seven steps that starts with the bath in its steaming pools outdoors and with views of the sea —and if it is with a glass of white wine served in its outdoor bar, better than better—.
Then he will play a dazzling panoramic sauna , a exfoliation based on natural salts, a Turkish bath and cold water pools . On the way out, a kit-kat in their fancy cafe and presto: we'll be new people.
A different option is the mythical Blue Lagoon , next to the Keflavík airport. Another enclave surrounded by the most spectacular Icelandic landscape, perfect for unwinding.
6:30 p.m. We must now remember that "wherever you go, do what you see", and adapt to the meal times of the Icelanders. And, like good Nordics, this happens very early. We lean towards Hédinn, restaurant that occupies the old steel factory building of the same name in the trendy Reykjavík 101 district.
In an environment of modern design and evocative, and with a open kitchen in view of the diners, it is time to taste some of the proposals of the Icelandic chefs Karl Viggó Vigfússon and Elías Guđmundsson, founders of the project.
The best bet? Their five course tasting menu in which, of course, there is room for a delicious toffee beetroot , and for him cod and the lamb , star products of the country. Before —and if necessary, also after— nothing like livening up the evening with some cocktails of the house
The Sneaky One —gin, strawberries, rhubarb liqueur, sweet vermouth and tonic— is, we can attest, a safe bet.
DAY 2: DON'T STOP THE RHYTHM
9:30 a.m. Today we dedicate the morning to art, and we have already been able to verify that Reykjavík does not skimp on it. We return to district cool of the city, the Reykjavík 101 , where some of the museums More popular.
View of the Reykjavik Maritime Museum.
The Maritime Museum provides first-hand insight into the Icelandic relationship with the sea over the centuries, while the Art Museum, located in Hafnarjhús, a former port warehouse, offers constant exhibitions of local and international artists with special emphasis on one of the most revered national pop art scene icons, erro.
Finally, the Museum of Photography , which occupies the top floor of the Municipal Library , also has temporary exhibitions of local and foreign photographers.
The best, however, is when you go downstairs: the walls are decorated with a whole collection of old images that show scenes from an Iceland very, very far away from the current one, are a revelation.
The National Library of Reykjavik.
11:30 a.m. After a quick coffee at the always appetizing IDA Café-Library, right in front of the museum, we head for the port. A 15-minute walk takes us to the newest attraction on the island.
FlyOver Iceland uses the latest technology to to transmit , with great success, the sensation of flying over Icelandic landscapes . An immense spherical screen of 20 meters and special effects such as wind, aromas and even fog, will make us feel excited on a most unique journey in which even vertigo will make an appearance.
1:00 p.m. Time to bite! We headed towards the Old Port to fill the stomach . Along with the boats that rest on the pontoons , three small buildings painted green give away one of the most authentic postcards of the city. In them, various catering businesses will make it difficult for us to choose.
Restaurants in the old port of Reykjavík.
How about an Icelandic smoked salmon sandwich at Reykjavík Röst, a laid-back cafe? Among his specialties, smoked lamb or homemade soups.
For the most daring, they propose a challenge: try the traditional shark fermented accompanied by a shot of Brennivín , Icelandic liquor based on fermented potato pulp. But beware, because colloquially it is known as " black death”.
2:00 p.m. And now, yes, the time has come: we collect all the outerwear we have by hand and we got on board one of the boats of Elding, a pioneer company in excursions for whale watching in the zone.
An experience magical, unique and unrepeatable in which, for three hours, Facing the cold winds that press in these latitudes and rocked by the brave waves of the sea, we will scan the horizon together with specialized biologists in search of the slightest sign that indicates that a whale or dolphin is nearby.
A humpback whale in the Icelandic seas.
The most common species? The Humpback Whale , the minke, the porpoises common or the dolphins white-snouted, visible especially in summer, when they arrive in the area in search of food.
5:00 p.m. Back on solid ground, how about a relaxed walk along the sea? We want to get drunk pure air that is breathed in these parts , where the landscape of mountains with snowy peaks across the bay.
The first stop? In Harp, one of the most striking buildings of Reykjavík for its facade of multicolored glass : Since it opened its doors in 2011, this cultural center and concert house has hosted countless shows.
The Harpa concert hall.
A little further on is The Ship of the Sun , possibly the most emblematic sculpture of the city: built in steel, it is a fascinating piece by the artist Jon Gunnar Arnason that symbolizes the skeleton of a ship . No one, absolutely no one, should leave the capital without immortalizing themselves in front of him.
7:30 p.m. And the time has come to say goodbye to this unique city, and we will have to do it in a big way. We can't think of a better proposal than having dinner at one of the fashionable restaurants: monkeys.
Jón Gunnar Árnason's sculpture symbolizing the skeleton of a ship.
With its casual atmosphere, its elegant decoration Oh, those flowery carpets, those vertical gardens and those neon signs! – and its modern design, takes us into a parallel universe dedicated to the purest hedonism.
Above all, thanks to the gastronomic proposal inspired by the nikkei flavors by chef Snorri Sigfússon, whose 12-course tasting menu is pure fantasy.
To finish off, and by the way, lower the dinner, we look for space in the cocktail area , if possible in the converted old train carriage in Champagne Train, the favorite corner for Instagram lovers.
The night is long and the spirits, in this country, invite you to take advantage of it, so we let ourselves be advised by mixologist Martyn Lourenco , and we decide what flavor to assign to this 48-hour northern escape through the capital of Iceland.
BONUS TRACK
To travel to Reykjavík, the young and modern Icelandic company Play has just started operating to Spain , offering direct flights between the capital of Iceland and Spanish cities such as Madrid, Barcelona, Alicante, Malaga, Tenerife or Mallorca —from 2023, also Gran Canaria—. And beware, because at very competitive prices.