Benedictines, florentinesscrambled, poached… eggs are the king of the Dear Breakfast concept, a Lisbon chain dedicated to the most self-indulgent brunch you can imagine and that plans (yum!) to land very soon in Madrid (still no opening date, we will keep you informed).
Its creator is Julien Garrec, who opened his first restaurant on rua das Gaivotas, in 2017, converting the inhabitants of Lisbon into lovers of slow breakfast, substituting toast and the traditional tall coffee with milk (galão) for creative and colorful dishes based on the versatility of eggs, revitalizing juices and very special coffees.
Julien Garrec, the king of brunch.
After conquering the Bica area, Julien opened a branch in Chiado, followed this summer by a pop up in a rooftop in Santos. In these spaces dedicated to delight, 'the most important meal of the day' is served throughout the day, in a profusion of mimosas, pancakes and fancy avocado toast that plays more in the category of brunch than breakfast (although we all know that you can have it at any time you want... and call it what you want, of course!).
At 34 years old, Garrec has managed to build the business that he always dreamed of opening: a cozy breakfast mecca in a neo-bistro atmosphere. Nothing seemed to indicate that his life would take him to Lisbon, since he previously lived in Paris, Madrid – “Living there was probably one of my best experiences in life, I love the energy of it!”, tells Condé Nast Traveler– and New York.
In 2013, Garrec designed a gastronomic laboratory in Nolite with Helena Ichbiah, of the Ich&Kar studio, whose objective was to bring European food closer to American chefs, diners and journalists. It was in New York where he knew that the restoration was not a passing fancy but the true love of his life. But, in 2015, Garrec's life was turned upside down by a car accident.
Dear Breakfast in Alfama, in Largo de Santo Antonio da Sé.
After a year of hard rehabilitation he decided return to Europe and settle in Lisbon. It was precisely during the flight to Portugal that he discovered the work of Lisbon artist and architect João Pombeiro Machado (from Studio Astolfi) –in an article in Air France magazine–, whom he met by chance days later at a party. They ended up talking about food, more specifically, about the magic of breakfasts... and that's how it all came about.
The first Dear Breakfast participated in the rebirth of the traditional neighborhood of Bica. João Pombeiro helped create the right atmosphere. They decided to go back to bare the walls, returning them to their original state and revealing the hidden tiles under the different layers of plaster. They built several arches and installed a giant mirror on the ceiling.
Breakfast time!
For its part, the Gaivotas restaurant –located in the triangle formed by Rua de São Bento, Rua do Poço dos Negros and Rua Poiais de São Bento– has recently been expanded expanding into the adjoining store and doubling the number of seats.
“I don't like to compare Dear Breakfast to other projects. We are trying to do everything with love from the beginning, every second… I really think our clients can feel that”, explains Garrec. “I like the idea of waking people up. A few weeks after our first opening, we were already full. It's not good to make anyone wait for their first coffee of the day, that's why I started looking for a second location in Chiado in 2018”, she jokes.
The one in Chiado, remodeled in April 2021, It is very popular for its mezzanine with views of the Calçada de São Francisco. His table by the window has a bird's-eye view of the tram tracks that is frequently featured on Instagram.
The ephemeral The Secret Rooftop, in Santos, opened during the summer on a terrace with a pergola and panoramic views of the river and the typical architecture of Lisbon. The format worked very well: fixed price brunch (€20) with cocktails. “It was a great experience to bring our clients there, to make them discover a secret place in the center of Lisbon. More than the idea of a chain, we like the idea of proposing new experiences”.
In September of last year, it was also inaugurated a new space in Alfama, in Largo de Santo Antonio da Sé, next to the Lisbon Cathedral, which has two large rooms marked by beautiful arcades and an outdoor terrace, and which maintains the simple and minimalist decoration of the other restaurants.
THE KEY INGREDIENTS: EGGS, BREAD, COFFEE
But who is in the kitchen? The chefs Raquel Patronilho and Steve Brown are the ones who have shaped, together with the businessman, a menu that combines international influences with the freshness of downtown Lisbon, always prioritizing local ingredients.
Champion's breakfast.
Fresh eggs are essential – purchased directly from small farmers. but also bread, a food as important in the neighboring country as it can be wine, cheese or bacalhau. They prepare it in all shapes and sizes: dried papo, mistura ball, mafra bread, Alentejo bread, broa de Milho, centeio, bolo do Caco, lêvedo dos açores.
Garrec wanted to bet on artisan bread, especially sourdough, that ferments slowly according to the atmospheric, humidity and temperature conditions, a bread that needs time and dedication. To do this, he partnered with Isco, the Alvalade bakery run by chef Natalie Castro. from here is born wheat bread for toast and brioche for eggs benedict, a morning classic.
For coffee, they work with a local family business, Flor da Selva, created in 1950. They roast coffee in a giant toaster – it can contain up to 120 kg of grains – and it is heated with cork oak firewood. Wood gives it flavor, although it is more expensive and generates more maintenance and cleaning work: in fact, this is one of only two roasters in Europe that still use wood.
In addition to its classic blends, Flor da Selva now works with single-origin beans from small growers and organic farms in Ethiopia, Nicaragua, Honduras, Brazil and Colombia. Espresso (or bica, as it is known in Lisbon) is the most popular type of coffee, but its variants go from the coffee without principle, where the first drops of coffee are not used, to the peculiarities of choosing a hot or cold cup. The barista also turns it into an art form.
Dear Breakfast, in rua das Gaivotas, Lisbon.
ON A TRIP WITH JULIEN: FIVE QUESTIONS FOR THE CREATOR OF DEAR BREAKFAST
You have lived in Paris, Madrid and New York. What are your three favorite places in each of those cities?
In Paris, the pâtisserie Sébastien Gaudard (rue des Martyrs); Le Pantruche and the Perrotin Gallery. The Montmartre / Abbesses neighborhood. In Madrid: Bodegas Ardosa; Vinegar Brothers; lula nightclub (recently inaugurated in Gran Via); Sala Equis, where I saw the incredible Poetic Brothel show. from neighborhood, I stay with Lavapiés.
In New York I would highlight EGG Brooklyn and Lafayette (Nolita) for breakfast, MoMA ps1, Inness (upstate New York) and I can't wait to visit the project of SteveGold, also located in the north of the state, the hotel-spa The Aurum. from neighborhood, I choose Midtown Manhattan, Williamsburg/Bushwick, NY Upstate.
French businessman Julien Garrec, creator of Dear Breakfast.
What did you learn from those three cities that you have applied in your kitchen?
All the new ways of consuming food: local, organic, raw... and new concepts such as slow life hotels, specialty coffee shops, small bakeries, new mixology bars, which when I lived in Williamsburg almost 10 years ago they were really new and inspiring.
France made me learn about quality in terms of ingredients. Our croissants, for example, are made with 80% butter, so it is important to choose a very good one. We use butter from Normandy for his incredible wealth. The waves hit the cliffs of Normandy, the salty touch on the herbs that the cows eat... All this makes its flavor unique.
I like the festive way of drink and eat together in Spain. In the end, eating tapas is mixing different types of food with drinks; this is a concept not dissimilar to having brunch.
Lisbon is always a good idea.
What do you like most about Lisbon?
I moved to Lisbon five years ago. I like it because it is a small city if we compare it with New York or Paris… but with many options, and everywhere! We have incredible places in 20 minutes around: Caparica to surf, Sintra to walk or Comporta, Ericeira, a little further, to relax. The nature around you is incredible.
What are your favorite places in Lisbon and why?
I would say Caparica for sure. The Irmão beach club is a true dream: a class at the Omar surf school, a delicious cocktail in the sun listening to his incredible playlist… In the city it is easy to find me: I like to have a drink in Vago (a cocktail bar located on rua das Gaivotas, next to the first Dear Breakfast) or with my friends Guilia and Max from true wine. Like in Damas, in Graca, where I go out, or in Misc by Tartar-ia, with Maria the owner. Probably one of the best restaurants in town, in my opinion.
What are your favorite hotels around the world?
Hotel Parco dei Principi (Sorrento), without a doubt, would be one. It is a 1960s hotel imagined by Gio Ponti. The decoration (white and blue tiles) and the furniture (now reissued) became iconic. I like the smell of the beautiful garden when I arrive… and the possibility of taking a boat a few minutes to spend the day in Capri.
Il Palazzo Experimental (Venice): I love following the beautiful projects of the Experimental group. I think the interior designer Dorothée Melichzon did an amazing job here! She reimagined an 18th century palace with an elegant blend of fun and sophistication. A very interesting attraction in the city, away from the crowds of the center but with easy access to places of interest.
Santa Clara 1728 (Lisboa): I like minimalism and this small boutique hotel located in Santa Clara is, in my opinion, the perfect place to unpack. Designed by the famous Aires Mateus, the relaxing view over the Tagus River exerts incredible power over me. Special mention for the bathrooms [laughs], They inspired me a lot when I had to renovate my flat! They are simply beautiful, with beautiful stones and tiles from Portugal. Come down and enjoy twice a week the Feira da Ladra, the local flea market.