Ica, the cradle of pisco: let's drink Peru
That which is considered as “the winery of Peru” find yourself in the middle of a vast desert pacific coastal desert , which occupies almost 200,000 square kilometers, may sound like a joke. Because ica is like that : a complete oasis in the immensity of sand and dunes , of wild and inhospitable lands, that despite what we could imagine, give away the richest and tastiest broths from all over the Andean country . How do you stay?
And although most foreigners end up in this remote corner of the world to spend a couple of days of adventure among the palm trees and Huacachina oasis dunes , we have decided flee from the tourist And we do it with a good purpose: dedicate ourselves exclusively to tasting the liquid treasure of this country until we become experts.
It's time to learn everything about pisco.
The dunes of the oasis of Huacachina
But first, let's clarify what we're talking about. Pisco is the Peruvian national drink par excellence. , a sweet-flavored grape liqueur cultivated especially in this region of Peru since the Spaniards, in the process of colonization, arrived with their vines ready to grow them in the New World.
Precisely, a Spanish colony was established in Ica that during the 16th century produced its own wine on its estates. Wine that was later supplied to the different religious orders installed in Lima, but that was also sold to the sailors who departed from the coastal city of Pisco – hence its name — to Spain.
The way to store it, yes, it was far from the wooden barrels to which we were accustomed in Europe: in its beginnings in Peru the exquisite flavor of the brandy was combined with the work of the potters , which they elaborated clay pots to contain the elixir in which it finished macerating.
That pisco that began to be produced more than four centuries ago continues to write its history today. A path that has been changing over the years, evolving and perfecting , to give shape to three different types of liquor: the pure pisco, green must and acholado , all different from each other according to the type of pisco grape with which it is made. That to add juices and sugars and various ingredients , giving rise to the most delicious cocktails like ** pisco sour ,** would come a little later.
The good pisco route
Today a handful of wineries — about 10 — are scattered around Ica ensuring that the centuries-old tradition is maintained. Touring some of them is the best way to savor the most authentic Peru. To do this, the simplest is negotiating with a taxi driver a private half-day route through the most emblematic . And what are those? Here we give you some ideas.
**TACAMA, FALCON CREST VINEYARDS**
When the taxi passes through the huge iron gates that give access to Tacama Winery , and heads down the eternal corridor of immense trees that acts as a prelude to the great hacienda, one comes to feel someone important.
Around, and to infinity, what grows are vineyards. thousands of vines that each year they provide the fruit with which one of the most praised piscos in Peru is made: the one that has been produced right here since no less than 1540 , when It was founded by Francisco de Carabantes , pioneer of viticulture in the country.
The ideal way to understand the origin of this elixir is to join one of the free guided tours —there are in various languages—: only in this way will all the secrets of its production be learned. It will also be the way to visit the colonial-era winery , enjoy the views from e l viewpoint-bell tower and, of course, take a walk through its cellar. The end of the tour is obvious: taste the pisco , although you can also try some of the wines and sparkling wines that have also been produced since the mid-20th century.
Like Falcon Crest
THE CATADOR, TRADITION BY FLAG
is to enter El Catador Winery and breathe pure pisco: this is how Peru smells. This traditional business opened its doors in 1856 and since then it has striven to show everyone who Visit the primitive techniques of pisco elaboration. Namely: how it was processed 400 years ago.
And this is precisely how the guided tour of this traditional winery begins —also free, by the way—: strolling around the Main building, where the original facilities are preserved. You can even see remains of some of the clay jars where pisco was kept at that time.
The winery has a restaurant and a tasting area, a kind of authentic tavern in which, there will be no remedy —ahem—, you will have to taste the product.
El Catador winery shop
** BODEGA LAZO, THEY WILL NOT MOVE US FROM HERE!**
It is one of the least known and at the same time one of our favorites: also here Authenticity is breathed in abundance. Because if something has achieved Lazo Winery since its foundation in 1809 has been not to fall neither in the industrialization of its production nor in the latest generation technologies : here we continue elaborating the pisco as before , and you just have to take a look at its facilities to realize it.
It is found in some land north of Ica and is made up of a couple of rustic-style buildings that house the closest thing to a museum dedicated to pisco. Well, to pisco and a handful of other things that we would not even know how to describe: from its walls and ceilings hang farm equipment, paintings, antiques several and even some ship model.
On the ground, yes, dozens of clay jars continue to keep inside the pisco that one of the managers will be in charge of serve us with mastery through a rudimentary cane with a small hole: in the traditional way, come on . More genuine, impossible.
Pisco is made here like in the old days
** EL CARMELO, DRINK AND SLEEP**
In this beautiful colonial hacienda, the arts and benefits of pisco production are shown, yes. It is also tasted, of course, but in addition, you can sleep in it . And this is so because what you are looking for Manuel Bernales , the person behind the project and the fifth generation in charge of El Carmelo, is sharing through your hotel and with everyone who wants it, the beauty, the magic and the charm of his culture: the Peruvian
And within that culture is, of course, pisco, of which it even has its own brand: Mount Carmel . A wonder brandy that here is macerated in up to three different cellars: the artisanal, the artisanal-industrial, and the purely industrial. The storage of the resulting broth, yes, is done as we have already decided that we like it better: in clay pots. Because, what are we going to do, we like the usual customs!
Pisco grape vineyards in Ica
THE LADY OF PISCO
What a wonderful cover letter, don't you think? Because the work and effort that he has spent a lifetime devoting Mrs. Juanita Martinez de Gonzales , pisquera teacher, to the company that her ancestors founded back in 1856, continues to have her reward. We are talking to you this time about Three generations , the cellar in which it is made one of the most celebrated and awarded pisco —the list of merits, believe us, is infinite— from all over Peru.
And it is she, faithful to the traditions of an entire country, and with his 80-something years , who continues to imprint her stamp like no one knows how to do to the product that is born in these Iscan lands. A place where each grape is cared for and chosen with intention , always betting on the best of the best.
To taste and get to know their pisco first-hand, this time you have to **forget about the bodegas for a while and go to La Olla de Juanita **, the restaurant, also owned by the family business, which is in the hands of the daughter of "the Lady". Listening to the stories that have brought the family business to the place it is today is a delight, but much better if —here it is— it is made with a glass of pisco ahead . What a piece of homage to the national liquor. And long live Dona Juanita!
Here the dishes are always made with pisco first