Let's see, let it be clear to all of us: The April Fair, this year, is going to be the bomb. Because three are many years without the mess and the joy typical of Seville's big week and because in Seville, when they want, they know well how to put together a good ruckus.
So, if the idea of joining the sarao is haunting you, you need to have a couple of things in mind. Because friend, friend, get out of your head that of standing up like someone who doesn't want the thing in the middle of the Royal —first concept to learn: that is how the fairgrounds are popularly called— willing to sneak into the booth on duty and get fed up with rebujito
No-no-no, put the brakes on: if you do it like this, you will probably end up frustrated and in a good disgust. But don't worry, because that's what we are for: we offer you the basic notions —because we want you happy— that all pro pitchman must know. Take note, you will thank us.
Seville April Fair.
FIRST OF THE FAIR
It is basic and fundamental that you understand one thing: 98% of the Seville fair operates from private booths. That is to say: each stand is financed by a number of partners who religiously pay a fee year after year for, when the party arrives, have your own space. A kind of “house” in which receive and entertain to as many friends and acquaintances as they like.
For that very reason, that of considering roam freely around the compound without any invitation, it can end in disaster: obviously, you can not pretend to sneak into the house of strangers by the face. Of course: if the brother-in-law of the second uncle of the cousin of a childhood friend has a booth, you know Who do you have to get close to? If the Sevillians have plenty of something, it is hospitality.
However, if you don't have anyone to give the touch to, all is not lost yet: the fair still has a good handful of spacious booths with free admission —that of the districts of Seville, associations or unions, for example— where they will not give you any trouble when carrying out your task. The atmosphere is usually very different, yes, but a gift horse… you know.
Fried fish in Seville.
EL PESCAÍTO: LET'S GO, WE'RE GOING
Okay: it's the big day. On Saturday, April 30, it officially opens —unofficially, probably, he had already done it a few days before— the April Fair, and he does it with the mythical dinner of little fish and the traditional lighting. A night in which, until 12 in the morning, the booths are open exclusively for those members who have reserved their place and in which it is served, eminently, fried fish -Sure-. Here there is no flamenco dress that is worth —he remembers, neither sevillanas nor gypsy, please —, but the most elegant outfit you have in your closet. Of course, without going overboard, We are not going to party either. The men, with jackets and ties or, at least, with jackets and shirts: the opening of the Real is well worth putting on a gala, of course. On the feet, please, elegance according to the dress: forget the slippers.
As if it were the Cinderellas on duty, all eaten and ready at 12 chimes because it is the expected moment: the more than 200 thousand bulbs of the Real light up once and from there, everything is lol. That yes: it will be necessary to dose energies, that the fair is very long and later, we will want to endure.
Real de la Feria, April Fair, Seville.
CALL ME AND... SHALL WE SEE YOU?
Inaugurated the fair, the party begins. From Sunday the city becomes a constant catwalk of flamenco and companions wearing their beautiful outfits at any time of the day. Horse carriages decorated everywhere. Lanterns even on the balconies. Sevillanas playing 24 hours a day. This is the April Fair, what can we tell you?
But it turns out that when you arrive at Real very prepared and try to call your friends to see where they are… there is no coverage. Well of course! Forget seamless communications in the middle of the fair, keep in mind that in the same enclosure there are concentrated thousands and thousands of people —More than 3 million in pre-mandemic!—, Each of them with their precious mobile phone in their pocket trying to do what you do: meet her group. Most of the time you will say bye bye to the connection: don't be surprised if whatsapp explodes once you return home.
Other fail as a rookie? Stay directly on the cover. But, but… how do you think? That immense structure that acts as the official door of the fair is the place where they have been mentioned two hundred million people besides you, so looking at your colleagues' hair will be like looking for a needle in a haystack. Come on, be original... or you will have it raw.
Flamenco dresses in a souvenir shop, Seville.
THE DRESS-CODE: THAT GREAT DILEMMA
Let's cut to the chase: What does one or one wear to go to the fair and not be out of tune? And yes, reread: “not to be out of tune”. Because you can go to the fair dressed as you really want, it would be missing more. Now, if you want to blend in with the environment and do things in “sevillian ways” —as well as making sure you don't get pushed back into any stalls where they might be a bit more picky—it's good that you have Some tips consider.
For them, the most comfortable -although a priori it may seem the opposite- is to plant a flamenco dress and throw miles. Why would you go crazy thinking about the right outfit when you are going to be delighted with your dress? In addition, an extra detail: under the suit is superlicit to wear comfortable esparto wedges that will allow you to endure the hours that are needed giving everything. Going without a suit but elegant would mean going in high heel shoes: to see how you do so that your feet survive the fairground, to the kilometers walked from booth to booth... and on the way home —we'll talk about this later—.
April Fair, Seville.
Also, you know very well: There is no woman who is not beautiful in a flamenco dress. And if you don't have your own suit, you can always borrow one from a local friend, or buy your own - there are shops that They offer cheap suits very competitive. Even, as a last option, you can rent it. Yes who doesn't become flamenco is because she doesn't want to.
And while we're at it, remember: the flamenco better with hair up, the flower high up - and the bigger, the better - and some good earrings. no bag —for that there is already the secret pocket of the suit, the one that will make you end the fair with a good bruise on your shin— and always, always, put on a shawl Eh, now yes.
Men, meanwhile, have it easy: they repeat outfits. The best thing is to wear pants with shirt and jacket. And if you add the tie... you'll be fine.
Poster for the centenary of the April Fair, Seville (1948). Illustration by Newell Convers Wyeth.
ORGANISATION: BE ABLE TO GUIDE YOU
We admit that the fair, with all the commotion of people, with the booths that all look alike, with the bobbing of horse-drawn carriages... and with the liters of rebujito/manzanilla that you are going to ingest, can lead to disorientation. So stay with this: the Real works like a mini-city, with its street names —always of bullfighters: Ignacio Sánchez Mejías, Gitanillo de Triana, Juan Belmonte… — and their numbered booths: the even ones on one side, the odd ones on the other. Many, in turn, have names to make them more easily recognizable. And beware, because they do not usually skimp on ingenuity: you can have a good laugh.
Among all the crowd, several more locations that will help you to locate yourself. Starting by the street of hell —which are actually several—, where all the fairground attractions are located. And by the way, impress on your mind the following: although at 3 in the morning you think it's a brilliant idea to ride on it Viking ship after a whole day based on rebujito, no, IT IS NOT.
You will be surprised to know that it exists a booth for lost children, and even one for arrangements of sewing Who hasn't caught their suit on a corner at some point, huh? At one end of the enclosure, a handful of booths around a kind of small square are the last stop before going to sleep: there are the chocolate donuts that will help you get home a little less affected. And they taste like glory!
Rebujito at the April Fair, Seville.
THE CARRIER'S MENU
know that there is not ham, no croquettes, no montaditos, no lace fritters, that feel as good as the ones you eat at the fair. Much less, the caldito de puchero that you drink in the wee hours of the morning. From there, the gastronomic level rises —or low, that there is, there is everything— depending on what the catering of the booth on duty has wanted to work on.
To accompany the solid, the mythical pitcher of rebujito —a mixture of manzanilla with 7Up— or, for those with trained livers, dry stick chamomile. Be very careful with constantly soaking the liquid in food, otherwise the thing can end very badly And don't think about the hangover the next day, you'll deal with it when the time comes. The prices in the Real, yes, they are not usually too cheap, but a week is a week.
Any self-respecting booth usually has at certain times of the day with his live music group. Remember that what sounds at the fair are sevillanas, so look for a tutorial on Youtube and go practicing. As soon as you've been in the Real for a few hours, we'll tell you that art, the kind you didn't even suspect you had, will come from your soul. Don't be shy, the least important thing is to dance well. You put desire and ready.
Exterior of the Hotel Alfonso XIII, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Seville.
TIME TO COME HOME
That time will come, no matter how much you want to delay it. And suddenly you will be aware that several thousand more people have exhausted their strength at the same time as you: the queue to catch a taxi it reaches almost to the confines of Seville. Here will come the time to make an important decision: take courage and religiously join the line; do the same, but bus shuttle stops... or start walking. Trust us: very possibly be with this last option as you arrive home earlier.