Seville for those who already know Seville
A Seville You have to go more than to the dentist. The phrase is not mine. I wish. It was written a few days ago by a journalist colleague, William Alonso , on the eve of his umpteenth trip to Seville. He was asking for places to go when it has already been approved “ first of tourism in Seville ” (thanks, Guillermo, for so many pearls).
These lines are for those who have already visited Dueñas, climbed the Giralda, seen the saints of Zurbarán in the Fine Arts , taken soup from galleys in La Moneda, has its own ranking of shrimp salad and has wallowed in the romanticism of the city.
To those who already know Seville, we must tell them not to trust themselves: that Seville is much more elusive than it seems. It misleads because it seems that there is a lot, especially at this time, with its bursting orange blossom and its baroque style about to explode . Do not trust We do not trust. There is a Seville that, without being hidden, is for the third and fifth visits.
"You have to go to Seville more than to the dentist"
It is the one of the small museums in front of the hits, the one of the new hotels in front of the great ladies, the one of the churches that reopen, the small exhibitions and the spaces that are beyond the reach of the neophyte traveler . Let's flirt with her.
The first thing the recurring traveler has to do when he arrives at Holy Fair (where was poor Rufina at this station?) is to sharpen the senses. In a few minutes he will appreciate that, in spring, the city smells of orange blossom . It's like he's been floo-flooed with organic air freshener. In short, he will also perceive that there is less rush and noise here than it brings , people walk slowly and the streets are clean . That sensory walk also on a trip.
Let's leave the sensations and get to the point.
WHAT TO SEE WHEN YOU ALREADY KNOW SEVILLE
Let's start with the hotel . Connoisseurs stay in places like the ** Palacio Bucarelli ,** which break the expertometer . This house-palace is also known as Santa Coloma Palace and it is a perfect example of aristocratic construction of the 17th century. Antonio de Bucarelli, a Florentine, built it in 1615 and his descendants continue to live there.
The house is not open to the public, although the owners are kind enough to show you around. Yes, the place where those who already know the basic Seville would sleep is open . It occupies a wing of the palace and was, until recently, a college.
Bucarelli Palace, the accommodation of experts
Today, the Bucarelli Palace has six apartments that have the services of a hotel and the independence of a house. In them you impregnate yourself with History while you drink a wine at the courtesy bar or read in some of its corners.
Legend has it that every year dark swallows appear in the Palace and that Bécquer was inspired by them to write his poem . When the real heat begins, shortly, you will be able to take a bath in the small patio pool.
The expert knows that if you travel from May to September you have to chase a pool. He also knows that the city is growing in hotel offer, that a year ago they opened the One Shot Palacio de Torrejón, the Eurostars Torre Sevilla (in the tower of the same name) and that the renovated EME will now be part of the Mercer group.
At the end of this month he plans to open the Kivir Hotel, the only one on Paseo de Colón, with views of the river and Triana. Hybrid lodgings such as the aforementioned Bucarelli, Triana House and Palacio Mármoles, another connoisseur's delight They also gain weight.
We already know where to sleep, Now we're going out on the street. Once we have seen the main monuments, we will go to those destined for the following visits. One of them is the Palace of Lebrija.
Seville is full of palatial houses and, directly, of palaces. Among them there are categories and this is part of the first league. There, among Roman mosaics, they are exhibited from April 4 to September 22 , two paintings by Rubens : 'Hercules in the Garden of the Hesperides' and 'Deianira Tempted by the Fury'.
The exhibition is part of the project Masterpieces from the Italian collections , which will bring important pieces from Italian museums to the Palace. Mary Leon , to whose family the museum belongs, has also been involved in the exhibition. We asked her about places that she would recommend to travelers who already know the city. She replies without hesitation: “ the Ana Mari Abascal antiques shop, the María Trifulca restaurant, for views of the river and the Seco & Goldsmith goldsmith craft workshop ”. Annotated.
Palace of Lebrija
WE CONTINUE WITH THE WALK FOR INITIATES
The Bellver Collection opened last October at the House Fabiola ; this place exhibits the result of a lifetime of collecting Mariano Bellver . Here there is costumbrista painting, sculptures, furniture, ceramics, porcelain and gold work. It is a visit without queues, of affordable and unexpected dimensions.
This place borders on the Jewish quarter. In that neighborhood, which is sometimes skipped in favor of Santa Cruz, is the Church of Saint Bartholomew . This is one of the favorite places of Javier Rodríguez, founder of the agency Good Morning Brand Strategies . He, a great walker, likes “ the silent and monumental Seville , without fuss or spotlights”.
Another quiet place that this designer and branding specialist likes is ** La Galeller **, "a contemporary jewelry gallery with an ultra-careful selection." It is on a street with seven curves called Seven Revolts.
A jewelry store that is actually an art gallery
Close, because here everything is close, there is the Antiquarium , located in Las Setas, a place that is known on the first visit to the city. Although you can see the building-square of Jurgen Mayer This archaeological museum is often overlooked; is in the basement and collects remains from Tiberius (ca. AD 30) until the s. SAW and one Islamic Almohad house from the 12th and 13th centuries.
The expert goes down to these rooms illuminated by light lanterns and takes a walk through Antiquity. In the Antiquarium it sometimes functions as an atypical theater; You can't always see a work sitting, literally, on so much of the past. These places do not escape the expert , just as it does not escape him that above the mushrooms there is a viewpoint, the Mushroom Balcony From which you can see all of Seville, a fairly flat city, by the way. Since we're in this area, let's explore it a bit.
What is hidden above the Parasol of Seville and under it...
A few meters away is chaotic , a very lively bookstore-cafe, where you read, talk, share, work and drink tea or beer, depending on the time and your desire. It's worth taking a look at cultural program because it is a way of taking the pulse of an open and active Seville.
Very close is also the hotel guinea house , opened a few months ago and decorated by Las Dos Mercedes and the famous (and highly valued) ** Cañabota **, a restaurant specializing in fish.
Oh, how hungry. The very exaggerated Sevillians say that in Seville you have to die. We won't get that far: here you have to live and that happens by eating . The expert has already combed the **shrimp omelettes at the Barbiana bar**, has ordered tagarninas at ** Don Carlos **, salad with artichokes at the Rosemary Winery and a piripi in the ** Piripi **. He wants more. and different.
For this traveler they are places like Holy hand , which serves a unpredictable mexican food ; here there are street dishes (those tacos…), from the interior, from the coast (fresh ceviches) and, a key fact, they are prepared by Mexicans. The cocktails are great and win over even those who are not into cocktails.
And when the weather allows it, that is to say, almost always, you can dine on the terrace, with the atmosphere of the Mall of children playing, bicycles and grandparents sitting on a bench. Madrid, that's terraces.
Mano de Santo carnitas taco
In the Santa Cruz neighborhood , a neighborhood where beginners and experts go, is Chic&Olé . This restaurant has been designed by Laura Parias (also interior designer of the Bucarelli Palace) and is all color and vegetation. And good meat and torrijas.
A curious fact: in the apartment on the top floor some members of the team of Game of Thrones when they shot in Seville.
If we cross the river and go to Triana we have two interesting restaurants. One is Of the O , which is located in an area of the river, the one that borders the Puppy Bridge , which is curious even for locals.
This place (with a terrace) is on a height, on a wide promenade frequented by people who play sports and walk dogs . In De la O it is good and you eat well: you have to try the sausages, the sea bass and some quite unique croquettes battered with shrimp. There you can meet the team of delaflor, a local brand of accessories . They say of this place that “it is the best in the city”.
All color in the neighborhood of Santa Cruz
They also frequent on Fridays at noon the fisherman, in the Arenal Market, but let's not leave Triana. There, on the ground floor of the Zenith hotel, is ** Almares **. This newly opened restaurant offers market cuisine with an emphasis on rice and fish. Coffee and post-dinner can be enjoyed on the top floor, overlooking the rooftops of Triana, next to the pool. But the time for swimming pools has not yet come. Reach.
Speaking of liquids, in Seville you drink well. The wine specialist Margot Coca share your favorite places in the city to take and buy them. She does not uda and throws three names: Master Marcelino, Our Land and De la Tierra. Word of expert for expert travelers.
This photo could be eaten
We have already eaten, drunk, visited museums and slept. We have some place left listen flamingo, What El Mantoncillo, in Triana, a bar on calle Betis in which one night not long ago Rosalía finished .
We are also missing hidden streets to explore , as the Green street, in the Jewish quarter and small workshops (visitable) such as Monphare ,; there are photographs and furniture designed and intervened inspired by the lighthouses and the sand of the beach.
this is just one weekend mini-guide for those who have already traveled to Seville several times . From here we say, with affection and firmness, to that person who, if he thinks that by going to the Cathedral, the Fine Arts or the Salvador You already know the city, you are very wrong.
Anyone who has visited a church can lower their pretensions because Seville has more than 120 of (here comes the shocking) of artistic relevance.
The expert knows just opened, after fourteen years of restoration, Saint Catherine , a jewel of Mudejar art. Who has crossed a bridge, let him know that he has several left. Who has been to the Rinconcillo, should know that there are still corners of the bar in which to elbow.
Who has visited the Alcázar during the day, should know that he has left to do it at night.
Seville is infinite even for Sevillians. And this is not an exaggeration of sevillana.