Almadraba wild tuna
HE RAISES HER IN THE FIRST PERSON
Knowing well what one eats is a little practiced sport in this country, but it is more than beneficial. That's why, we start this route making an in-depth marking of the fishermen, the same ones who select the tuna and stick their harpoons in the trap. This word means place where hit or fight , and see and hear a few meters away fish weighing between 200 and 300 kilos fighting against the water, the nets and the fishermen's intuition, makes it possible to fully understand the origin of the word.
Almadrabas are one of the oldest fishing traditions that are maintained today and a specialty in Cádiz: every year, tuna comes down from the cold Atlantic to the Mediterranean and, in the middle of the Strait of Gibraltar, he is trapped in a labyrinth with no option of escape. Y you pick them up , moment in which the trap nets are raised and the specimens are captured, have been for centuries a space practically forbidden to fishermen. However, now every year an exclusive group of lucky people can enjoy this experience in first person.
One of the dishes that you can taste on the Tarifa Tuna Route
For the third year, Nature Tarifa offers visits to learn about this millenary tradition in the four traps from Cadiz . With the closest possible approach and respect for the work of the fishermen, visitors learn on the ground -the sea- everything related to the work in the almadraba and its history, in addition to seeing how the lifting of bluefin tuna is carried out step by step, the favorite fish on the planet. It is also a good time to learn technical vocabulary , because it is not easy to get used to the idea of what the raberas, the staff or the counter-legitimate network are. The groups are very small, so that annually only about 60 people can enjoy this experience in May and nearby dates. The waiting list is important, so it is advisable to book in advance and spend a few days in the area, in case the lift rises and there is no way to set sail. Not even fishing.
Las Rejas Restaurant
IN TARIFA NOT EVERYTHING IS WIND
The wind, despite its unbearable gusts at times, is more than welcome in Rate , reference for lovers of water sports. But since there is no trace of the tuna on its shore or on the kitesurf kites, it is time to fill your stomach. This municipality celebrates the third edition of its Tuna Route from June 4 to 7 , so we are more than on time (unless you read this report in a few weeks or months) . Numerous restaurants and bars come together to offer all kinds of tapas related to tuna , many of them created for these special dates. In its small and charming old quarter we find several places where you can taste this delicious delicacy: grilled tuna The French to smoked in The ugly one . And, outside the walls, Las Campanas is a good place to try a bite at a good price.
However, the one that we will never forget is the taste of tuna with butter from Las Rejas , where it is usually accompanied with roasted peppers , which makes it a pleasant experience as a starter and that would raise Guzmán el Bueno himself. Located on the beach of Bolonia, Las Rejas is a restaurant that is perfect to accompany lunch with the wonderful rock fish of the area -with the borriquete in the first place- or its homemade and unique chocolate croquettes . Depending on one's pocket, the Misiana hotel, the Vagamundos inn or the numerous campsites in the area are perfect for a nap, to recover strength for the next day... Or whatever comes up.
wanderers
FROM THE MUSEUM TO RONQUEO
What arises -don't be misconceived- can be rest and start the day on the beaches of Tarifa, What Valdevaqueros, Punta Paloma or the aforementioned Bolonia and its imposing dune. Also the furthest stretches of fine sand next to the silver cape, almost on land Zahara of the tuna and, since we are there, we can choose to understand even more the world of tuna. They know a lot about that in Barbate and its district, so we're in luck. Before opening your mouth, one option may be the Tuna Museum, to learn a bit of history, what the old chancas are like, and also have the opportunity to experience the butchering of tuna up close, an art known as ronqueo.
Tuna Museum
From the tuna, as from the pig, everything is used: even the walk. Depending on the fat, each specimen is separated into pieces in a job worthy of an artisan surgeon. For the ronqueo you have to have skill and a knowledge that is only transmitted from parents to children. “If the cut is not done well from the beginning, you will disgrace the tuna” , says Antonio, from the firm Gadira Productos Almadraba, authentic black leg of tuna and where the specimens are snored just 10 minutes after fishing. There, to be able to see this tribute to tradition live, you also have to have a bit of luck: it will depend on whether there is a Levante that day, something that is only known hours before. Also of what the Japanese have left, who take 80% of the captures from Cadiz.
Gadira Almadraba Products
Another Barbatean company, Herpac, solves seasonality by applying ronqueo to yellowfin tuna, the classic light tuna, so that anyone can learn this technique the rest of the year. By the way, they make guided tours (for three euros) through some facilities where they can also understand the entire manual process that accompanies the different products from which the catch derives: salted, smoked and preserved. To finish, a tasting is always offered.
Tuna loin in Iberian butter
And from there, everyone can continue his own route through the land of Barbate. One of the best known and a must-see is El campero , but for those who prefer classic sites, one of the most recommended is La Bocana, near the fishing port. Also Abelard's Tavern , with the appearance that if they don't recommend it you won't go in, but whose morsels of tuna in white butter or with onions take away your doubts. And the prejudices.
barbate rules!
There are also those who bet on innovation and win the prize, as in the Hotel Antonio, which has won the first prize from the professional jury on the Zahar tuna route with its tapa Red Hot Tuna Peppers and, like all the winners, they will continue to offer it throughout the summer. The establishment is located next to Cabo de la Plata and its extensive beaches, but you can also enjoy other options for bathing and relaxation to the north of the municipality, such as Mangueta, Zahora or the classic and formerly hippy Caños de Meca, on the way to Conil . And while we're here, let's continue to the town where Kiko Veneno opened a beach bar in the 80s, when there weren't even foreigners.
Tuna tartare
THE 300 TAPAS OF CONIL
Today Conil is a classic of bachelorette and bachelor parties, so depending on your plan, it can be wonder or hell. Here they have signed up to the idea that the tuna route, the longer it lasts, the better, so they started it on May 8 and will continue until June 8. Up to 32 bars and restaurants have joined this year with tapas based on tuna presented in the most varied ways: there are almost 300 different dishes.
This year they have won the Red Hot Tuna award from The Andalusian and the Feduchy Tuna Mordiente , but there are plenty of options for all tastes, such as the tuna Montaíto La Pepa al Ingot of red tuna tarantelo with caramel crust on humus base (there is nothing) of La Mejorana. But the month gives for much more, so there are also book presentations for the most knowledgeable and trips around the tuna traps on paddleboards for the most athletic.
And if not, of course, there are always its 14 kilometers of beaches : from the endless sands the fontanilla (with the restaurant of the same name) to the rocky coves of Roche, more sheltered from the wind and with crystal clear waters. Not forgetting Castilnovo beach , more difficult to access and with ideal waves for surfers who, yes, the tuna has not filled their stomachs and tells them that it is better to take a nap. And, why not, dream of tuna: a symbol of relaxation and meditation. Or so they say.
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La Fontanilla beach in Conil