bisavis
How he sees himself and how he perceives himself, he shapes and helps articulate the outcome of the kitchen of chef Eduard Ros . He declares himself non-conformist and tremendously demanding, a way of being that plays, at the same time, the role of virtue and defect.
Under a practically obsessive modus operandi, he intuits Eduard's formula for success under the walls of a tiny local (almost hidden) in the neighborhood of Sant Gervasi-Galvany of Barcelona : Bisavis. Meticulousness pierces and merges with a casual style and a very personal attitude . The architect of this tavern, he declares himself in love with everything that is found within the gastronomic universe. With a epicurean attitude , the chef defends a concept of happiness based on the pleasures of the senses , in his case, of any sense connected to the palate.
A personal project that was born with the desire and with the aim of turning a passion into a vocation. A vocation that comes “as standard”.
A VOCATION THAT COMES "AS STANDARD"
Following a perfectionist identity, of which he was once a lawyer, ** Eduard introduces us and brings us closer to his origins and tastes ** of him, through a different concept . After a vital approach a couple of years ago, Bisavis began to be built under two premises : the premises had to have (yes or yes) A bar and should be small so that he himself could take care of the kitchen, the service and the living room . “I wanted to do everything myself. From receiving the client when he walked through the door, serving him, cooking him, starting a conversation with him and recommending him, to saying goodbye when he had finished”.
After a long sifting, he found the jewel that in the past was a small carpentry and that today is already known by the neighbors as one of the reference restaurants in the neighborhood. There are only ten people who every noon and every night can enjoy the privilege of having a personal chef who live cooking . A unique and unusual experience that comes to life and forms around this small bar on Tavern number 11 street.
Bisavis Anchovy
"The bar brings you closer to the client and to the relationship you have with him," says Eduard, crossing his arms. Some tattooed arms that refer to his kitchen and his passions: work tools, "seny" (head) and the universe of wine. And it is that the Bisavis offer, presented on a plate or in a glass, goes through a meticulous selection process in which quality, origin and consistency prevail. As if it were a jam session, Eduard's kitchen starts from the beginning and takes shape without parameters or schemes. Like one who surfs on the water, the cook stands behind the bar, catches the wave at each service and lets the environment take him to new and uncertain terrain each time.
SELF-TAUGHT AND BORN FROM "TRIAL-ERROR"
What began with a more conventional offer has now become a rather short food and wine list with which Eduard feels much more comfortable and identified. He himself points out that he now has a higher quality product and a kitchen with more character . “I have gone from a more general or blockbuster format to a concept with much more personality. It is the kitchen that I have always experienced both inside and outside the home. I do what I want and I do it alone.”
HE COOKS IT FOR YOU TO EAT IT
The service begins with a sung letter, recommending the anchovies with sweet coca from Forn La Llibreria , an immovable success of the house and applauded by anyone who has tried it. Act followed: the first . These vary according to season: burrata with pesto and cecina; carabinero with sobrassada; salad with botarga or any of its pasta is a guaranteed success . Then go to the seconds with three pillars of the letter that came to stay: toasted butter stripe (wink at the Tasquita in front of Madrid), cheeks stewed with wine and chocolate or the old cow tartare with (spoiler alert!) smoked whiskey. As a sweet spot, Bisavis will never get rid of the panacotta (house brand) and acclaimed dish by all that assiduous and recurring public. "These are some of the dishes that I will not move, but the menu is alive and evolves according to the product that I find each week," says the chef.
In Bisavis, a method kitchen . The clear example that less is more. Where everything you eat is designed to be recognizable. The chef proposes a combination of primary flavors and he loves to play Contrasting humble products with other noble ones , as it can be with sweetbreads with caviar. He himself says that his intention is that in each dish both simplicity and complexity are perceived. And he adds, “If I made movies, my movies wouldn't be blockbusters, nor would they be auteur films. I think my job would resemble that of an independent film director.”
In the wine section, it has more than 70 references . "I like the delicacy of the varieties from the Jura area, the veiled whites for example." In addition, he confesses to us: “I am probably one of the few who offers the entire wine list by the glass . I want whoever comes to the premises to be able to taste, play and discover new wines”.
He loves taking everyone who enters his restaurant out of their comfort zone and is also delighted to be taken out of his. It is because of that he accepts challenges and requests . “Once I had to make a lobster sandwich, and one Christmas they reserved the entire bar for me on the condition that I cook them the Classic Christmas Menu. Everything happens here and I love that and it hooks me.”
After knowing him a little more, we are convinced that Eduard Ros created Bisavis to propose something new in the neighborhood and in the city , and to value the kitchen in which he believes. He does it by working hard but not stopping playing and having a great time. His house, his rules. “Here I have found my place. In the same way that I know that in 10 years I will be somewhere else.” So before time moves on, Bisavis deserves more than one visit to pay homage and enjoy while he has a tête à tête with Eduard along this great little bar.