Benahavís: the pleasure of living the Costa del Sol
The heavy traffic so typical of summer days is noticeable as we walk along the N-340 at the height of Estepona. When we reach the limit of its municipal area, where it borders on Marbella, we see the sign: to continue in the direction of Benahavis we will have to leave the lively activity of the coast and venture for 8 kilometers towards the foothills of the Sierra de las Nieves . Eah, well here we go.
On the car radio, an announcer recalls in perfect English that success that Cher and Sonny became popular back in 1965. It is one of the many British stations that can be tuned in throughout the Costa del Sol. It is no coincidence that, precisely Benahavis , count in your census with more foreign population than Spanish: neither more nor less than 63%.
The first notes begin to sound. 'I've got you babe' when we start to climb in height and the road becomes winding. Next to a small roundabout we are surprised by a street stall where the expected melons and watermelons have been replaced by colorful bags of… golf balls? Exactly: it is nothing more than the ingenious business of those who take advantage of the thousands of lost balls in the surrounding fields to earn a living, and a preview of what we are yet to discover. Oh, what things.
We advance a few more kilometers when, to the right, we find the canyon than the Guadalmina river has labored to create over the centuries: it is about Narrows , one of the jewels of the town of Malaga, declared Natural Monument . That is why while the narrow road continues to strive to give us curves and more curves, our eyes go after those steep cliffs full of paths to follow. When we come to realize it, we have reached the heart of the people.
Narrows
Benahavis is a coquettish town with an Arab layout , white houses and colored pots that define so well that image of a southern town to which we are accustomed. The origin of its name comes from Ben — “son” in its original meaning— and Avis or Havis , as was the name of the notable Arab who reigned in the Castle of Montemayor , a construction from the 10th century of which there are still remains and which can be accessed after a short hiking route. In 1485, with the delivery of the keys to the city to Ferdinand the Catholic , the Arabic denomination was terminated.
The town appears calm, as if still stretching after the long days spent in the shade of their homes, and somewhat sad because all those tourists who usually invade their corners are yet to come. But it is precisely that tranquility the one that makes us gladly recreate ourselves in the tour of its alleys, many of them pedestrian , in search of its most picturesque corners: the small squares, the old Moorish towers, the beautiful facades and the viewpoints with views of the mountain They add charm to every step.
Castle of Montemayor
However, of the almost 8 thousand inhabitants that Benahavís has, only 2 thousand live in its historic center . The rest is distributed throughout its wide municipal area, which encompasses some 145km2 and goes into the foothills of the neighbor Serrania de Ronda in the north, and almost to the Mediterranean in the south. That their domains have some of the most luxurious developments in Europe - let's say, for example, The Zagaleta —, makes Benahavís, curiously, have the highest per capita income in the entire province.
And what does this translate into? Well, to begin with, in the immaculateness of its urban furniture or in the careful care of its streets and parks , which seem freshly swept every second. But also in the satisfaction of its inhabitants and in details such as the municipal taxes are free or what Benahavileños have access to all kinds of courses and public classes at no cost . For example? In its Municipal Golf School , in which from a very young age they can already be seen, golf clubs under their arms, pointing out ways.
BETWEEN BALLS AND PIGLET WALK THE THING
The point is that the passion for golf, in this corner of Andalusia, is not a coincidence: Benahavís has up to 11 courses spread over its territory , some of them grouped in the most select clubs, which makes it the third Spanish town with the largest number of them and an absolute paradise for lovers of those who practice it.
names like The Farmers , designed by Severiano Ballesteros and famous for its demanding ecological protection policy; La Quinta Golf & Country Club , one of the busiest on the entire Costa del Sol; the Marbella Club Golf Resort with its impressive views of the Mediterranean and the African coast or the La Zagaleta Country Club , where discretion and intimacy are two fundamental pillars, are some of them.
Alleys of Benahavís
And since we are here, and because all this mystery that surrounds this exclusive development makes us curious, we ask: What is the history of La Zagaleta? And the locals tell us that in its day it was the private hunting ground of Saudi tycoon Adnan Khashoggi , and that since 2001 in its 900 hectares of Mediterranean forest are distributed around 200 mansions only suitable for a few pockets around the world. About who they belong to, absolute silence: such is the secrecy around their names that, what are we going to do, we are left with the desire.
But Benahavís has always come to eat. Those who live in its surroundings know this well: there are not a few residents of the adjoining towns who, since the 1970s, they reserved a table every Sunday in their mythical restaurants to indulge in the gastronomic feast of the day. For something has always been known as " the dining room of the Costa del Sol”. “the gastronomic corner ”, we baptized it: prettier that way.
Today its streets are full of restaurants with the widest offer: here there is not a single star product, but the menus include from typical delicacies of the mountain towns such as suckling pig, lamb or venison , to delicacies like seafood or fish arrived directly from the Mediterranean.
To choose, a classic: the fans , where should reserve a table to enjoy the suckling lamb , one of his specialties. Next to it, by the way, the gallery of the local artist David Marshall will delight art lovers. the lanterns , another gastronomic temple, is located on the same street. They are also The Tower, The Staircase, the Hospitality School —with dishes prepared by his students— or a proposal with a slightly more avant-garde touch: The Fantastic Tavern.
Benahavís in one of its most modern terraces
We, however, opted for something different: we took the car and headed towards the Anantara Villa Padierna Palace Benahavis Marbella Resort , an absolute oasis that is also an ode to life, to beautiful things, to worldly pleasures and to elegance in each and every one of its interpretations . There in his restaurant The Loggia and with views of one of its three golf courses that leave us speechless, a table awaits us where we let ourselves be loved. Because that is what they know how to do best at Villapadierna: love you very much from the very moment you set foot in their hall. let the feast begin.
The pampering starts with the special flavor of its famous gazpacho with prawns —can it be the best we've ever tasted?—and continue with a rice with lobster that takes away the sense . They are maintained by a mandarin sorbet that is a delight and they reach the peak with a Guaracha , the cocktail based on vodka macerated with red fruits, lemon, mint, syrup and hibiscus tonic that they prepare for us in the neighbor Eddie's Bar , whose cocktail menu is designed by the very same Diego Cabrera.
But we have already said it: we want them to love us. So the tribute continues with a swim in its spectacular pool while slender marble sculptures watch us from their pedestals. We feel part of a museum when walking through its stylish corridors —dressed in tapestries, paintings and busts—, wearing a bathrobe, to its spa, where we did not give in to one of its massages —not doing so would be a sin—. To achieve full happiness, we do not hesitate: we stayed in one of their suites where, accommodated in his comfortable bed, we are trapped by a single desire. The one to stay here eternally... can it be?
Anantara Villa Padierna Palace Benahavis Marbella Resort
A UNIQUE NATURAL ENVIRONMENT
It will be complicated, but it will be necessary to gather strength to continue exploring another side of Benahavís. In this case, the one that explodes in the form of nature. And watch out, because this version of the locality comes strong: 90% of its territory is mountains and mountains covered by lush Mediterranean forests and a varied fauna and flora.
We decided on the most fabulous way to dive into its attractions: putting on some good trekking boots and launching ourselves to explore some of its many trails . Much of its paths include incredible views of the Mediterranean and even, if the day is clear, the Moroccan coast: thanks to life for these details.
There are routes in the area such as the Sendero de las Luciérnagas, the one of the Acequias, the one of the Castle of Montemayor or the one of the Acequia del Guadalmina . We enter the thickness of its forests, cross bridges, follow the course of some of its three rivers —both the Guadalmina, like the Guadaiza and the Guadalmansa pass through its territory - and we bathe, of course, in its icy waters: in the depths of the Narrows Trail the popular awaits us Puddle of the Girls , an idyllic oasis of crystal clear waters perfect for cooling off. Everything is lush here. Absolute purity. What more could you want?
The answer is simple: nothing more. Because in this way each of the surprises that Benahavís holds are enjoyed. Why choose when you can have it all? Privileges offered by life on the Costa del Sol.