Pelegrina, 13 inhabitants registered in 2019 and a castle destroyed during the War of Succession
Despite their extraordinary heritage ensembles, the municipalities of Sigüenza are part of that empty spain struggling not to fall into oblivion. With a density of population less than Lapland , do not exceed 12 inhabitants per square kilometer, reaching the limit of erasing their memory.
These Emptied towns recover traditions, products and businesses clinging to the density of their past, and together with the most exquisite gastronomy, they try to bring life back to the area.
THE SPLENDOR OF SIGÜENZA
since in 2017 Sigüenza became Capital of Rural Tourism , the increase in hotel beds and the fact of positioning itself as a benchmark in gastronomy, has helped to develop its economy. The pandemic situation is also recovering inhabitants before the attempted proposal to return to rural life.
Jorge Sopena , historian and official guide of the city, takes me to discover the second wonders while he says that many of his friends from school, who left for Madrid years ago, have returned in recent months to telework from their family homes.
Sigüenza
“I studied in Alcalá de Henares, but I returned to Sigüenza with the idea of teaching. In the end I'm done as a guide ”, Work that he is passionate about and gives him the opportunity to enhance his hometown: “In Sigüenza several architectural styles come together. It is an example of Spanish urban planning!”. We go through your Baroque traces, the illustrated neighborhood of San Roque , the romanesque-gothic cathedral , the Alameda park in neoclassical style and the medieval quarter with its castle converted into a Parador in 1976 . We also stopped to buy famous truffles of the Poor Clare Sisters and honey from The Valderromero Apiary , a family business that has just opened a didactic space on the production of bee delicacies.
After a long walk, Jorge has managed to make me part of that splendor that was established in Sigüenza in 1862 with the arrival of the railway.
THE VILLAGES OF SIGÜENZA ON THE EDGE OF OBLIVION
The environmental agent Diego Moreno acts, for a few hours, as an improvised guide through those unknown treasures that dissipate in Sigüenza: walls, castles and natural landscapes where rivers, Sweet and salty , frame solitary postcards of peace and silence. And how lucky it was for him to show me those imperceptible villas where time seems to have stopped! “ Diego knows a lot. You're in good hands ”, His companions assure me while we observe the beginning of autumn from the Mirador Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente . The balcony in homage to the creator of the series The man and the earth shows the seasonal colors of the Rio Dulce Natural Park with vultures hovering over it.
We embark on a route to feel the reality of empty Spain. “ Spain emptied that does not empty ”, emphasizes Diego. Pelegrina, 13 inhabitants registered in 2019, a castle destroyed during the War of Succession and starting point of a spectacular itinerary through the Río Dulce Natural Park. Carabias, a tiny town where two families live s and Antonio, owner of the hotel Cardamom , an establishment surrounded by the stealthy countryside of La Mancha. The arcaded gallery of the church of El Salvador , in a rural Romanesque style, is its most valued asset. Next Palazuelos, declared a Historic Site in 2002 thanks to its wall of more than two kilometers in perimeter. At the back of the church of San Juan Bautista, several letters pay homage to those who died from Covid. Less than 40 people live in the houses of Palazuelos.
On the way to abandoned Salinas de Imón , responsible for the centuries of prosperity in the area, Diego points to a stone mound. “ That district disappeared when its last inhabitant died ”. We also walk through Riba de Santiuste , where last year there were registered only 11 people . One of them approaches us and sadly tells us how the tractors are destroying her beloved 16th century bridge, the same one that leads to the castle. In start , another castle on a rocky crag watches over the narrow streets of the tiny town that once had 10,000 inhabitants.
In Atienza, a castle on a rocky outcrop watches over the narrow streets of the tiny town that once had 10,000 inhabitants
After visiting the Celtiberian fort of castilviejo , we return to Sigüenza, where Diego directs with his wife, and in his free time, The Hostel of Sigüenza , the old family home converted into lodging. “We did not want to compete with hotels, we were clear about our public and we are very proud of the good rating we have achieved ”. Some old jars occupy the dining room, they were the ones used by Diego's mother until 1971 to carry water to the upper part of the city. "The channeling did not arrive here until the opening of the Parador." Diego has not only experienced the change in the city, but also in tourism.
HIGH GASTRONOMY
Sigüenza has a wide gastronomic offer for its barely 4,300 inhabitants: tapas establishments, bars, traditional kitchens and acclaimed Michelin stars that extol the culinary roots of the place. These businesses play a fundamental role in the hopeful growth of the area. Hope that is currently diminished with temporary closures to overcome the consequences of the pandemic.
It is the case of Alcuneza Mill , which, after struggling with a few unfriendly months, had to eventually close at the end of October due to mobility restrictions. This flour mill, converted 25 years ago into Relais & Châteaux with 17 rooms , was acquired as a country house in the 90s by Blanca's father, current director and co-owner. More than 500 years pray in its stone walls , those that welcome rooms decorated with great care and care manifested in countless flowers. The old mill presides over the main hall, and when Blanca turns it on, it unleashes the charm of her story.
Alcuneza Windmill, Relais&Châteaux (Alcuneza, Guadalajara)
To the cozy hotel with spa and swimming pool is added a Michelin star restaurant run by Samuel Moreno, Blanca's brother . Its cuisine is characterized by simplicity and honesty, transferring to it the humble spirit of the origin of the building through a strong menu full of ingenuity : beet tacos with morteruelo, cones of trout tartare with their roe, wild boar dumplings with sabrasada and lime, foie gras and kikos chocolate bar, tube of tea and chocolate with mango ice cream.
Bread is one of Samuel's most praised products , who makes no less than seven varieties with flour from another nearby mill, La Espelta y la Sal.
"We use organic flours, without pesticides and with little transformation, so they are very healthy," says Carlos Moreno, commercial manager of the Spelta factory. His greatest satisfaction is that of having rescued ancient cereals such as black wheat, Corazón or Bonpain; thus putting in value a product that is currently used in many other businesses in the area. “The biggest change we have experienced thanks to social networks. Through them we also sell pasta and beers”.
Thus, Seguntino entrepreneurs take advantage of the synergies of their businesses " We are a strong community ”, affirms Blanca, and it is a great pride to see how a whole generation works more united than ever giving visibility to their land.
Michelin stars are not lacking in Sigüenza . The first in the province of Guadalajara was for the maiden , located in a 18th-century mansion that previously housed a forge and a cocoa factory . Captained by the chef Enrique Perez , stands out for the delicacy of its dishes for which it uses the local seasonal product, perfectly combining tradition and creativity. As an example, his version of the fine seguntino, the Sigüenza cocktail.
Also with local and seasonal products transformed into creations full of flavor, the Nöla restaurant, by chef Jorge Maestro, stands out among the succulent cuisine of Sigüenza. Located in the house of the maiden , in the heart of the historic center, has since this year with a Repsol sun and with the Bib Gourmand recognition in the Michelin guide . Tradition and avant-garde are present in the dishes of this chef from Zaragoza adopted by the city of Doncel: bloody mary consommé, venison leg salpicón with humus and herb mustard ice cream.
Enrique Pérez, Samuel Moreno and Jorge Maestro they are partners and ambassadors of Culinary Root , helping to promote the gastronomy of the region with products from the land. And it is that Sigüenza does not lack resources to recover its empty paths.
The abandoned Salinas de Imón