You will soon get used to seeing the 'dhows' go into the sea
Pemba is one of those places where life has no clock but where everything should be done soon, like get up early to get on a fishing boat , tour the Mbanguia market before noon or return to Wimbi beach to be amazed by the sunset. But let's go by parts.
The first thing that the traveler must decide before staying in Pemba is what he is looking for, if the colorful bustle of the city or the silence of the bay. There are opinions for all tastes, and even intermediate options. Until 1904, when, under the name of Porto Amelia, the headquarters of the Company of Niassa -the entity in charge of managing the province's lands and resources during the Portuguese colonial administration- Pemba was just one small fishing village like the many that dot the Indian Ocean to the domains of the former sultanate of Zanzibar. Still today, the neighborhood of packet preserves the seafaring soul through its famous Fish Market . Just follow Avenida da Marginal to reach the small lighthouse that crowns one end of the neighborhood.
A Baixa, as the entire old part of the city is known, offers architecture lovers a review of the portuguese colonial design -colorful homes with patios and large balconies where you can find the sea breeze- mixed with the muslim influence in the form of simple but striking mosques. Of course, when you reach Avenida 25 de Setembro, Pemba becomes like any other city in the country: a constant bustle of motorcycles, pedestrians and cars attending to their businesses. only here the sand sometimes reaches the sidewalks.
But, before going to the beach, it is still a good idea to take a walk through the center of the city, to the Mbanguia market , one of the most important informal trade centers in all of Mozambique. Everything from radios to the famous African masks is sold here. There is also animals , crafts and young artists who promise to be the future references of local painting. It is advisable to do everything soon, we said, before the heat forces us to seek shelter and cold water.
Pemba's architecture mixes Portuguese colonialism and Muslim touches
Thus, we will still have time to enjoy the beach. Because Pemba is, above all, one of the best beaches in the country , a region often forgotten in tourist guides that place their last stop on the island of Mozambique. So much so that the city is one of the favorite destinations for Mozambicans and a favorite for Johannesburg residents. South African Airways has weekly flights, and there are also connections with Nairobi Y dar es salaam .
Much of Pemba's tourist fame comes from its impressive bay, especially the one known as Wimbi beach , an endless succession of white sand coves and palm trees . The typical image of paradise. Next to the roundabout that leads to the city is the luxurious Avani Pemba Beach Hotel , a high standing complex with swimming pool, spa and spectacular views over the bay. It is the meeting point between the beach and the city. The tourist offer has been growing around it, from the Nautilus Club to the dozens of small local accommodations with cheaper prices.
It is also here that the Pemba people come to enjoy a beer at sunset : the hustle and bustle of the Mbanguia market then moves to the promenade that surrounds the beach. There are street vendors and fried fish street food for those who opt for the local cuisine. If you sit on the sand waiting for the sun to set, you may find the silhouette of dolphins in the distance. And if he goes into water, almost always calm, always hot Turtles and a spectacular succession of tropical corals await you. From July to September you can even see Humpback whales .
Evenings are calm on the beaches of Pemba
NOT ALL IN ONE DAY
Thoroughly exploring Pemba Bay requires at least a couple of days, so there is nothing better than getting up again with the first rays of the sun, just when the first fishermen drag their dhows towards the almost always parsimonious sea. Afterwards, we will have earned a Good breakfast . The Nautillus itself has an international menu offer and a magnificent terrace facing the sea. A few meters away, following the main road, now unpaved, Reggio Emilia offers an ecological gastronomic proposal with eggs and fruit from its own garden.
On Wimbi beach itself there are plenty of offers to enjoy marine safaris in dhows and scuba diving or snorkeling to be amazed by the spectacular corals of this region of the Indian Ocean. In addition to the instructors at the Avani Pemba Beach Hotel, CI Divers , which is also a restaurant and guesthouse, offers a dive to the fascinating Lazarus Bank. For the more adventurous, it is enough to walk along the beach for a fisherman to offer us a ride out to sea. However, it is appropriate negotiate the price.
Unlike other beaches on the continent, in Wimbi, the propositions, offers and requests they will not overwhelm the tourists . One can walk for a long time or even fall asleep in a hammock without being interrupted. It may be that, after a while, a fisherman appears to talk to him, or a craftsman to sell some Makonde carving.
Baobabs on the beach, a unique picture
Towards the end of the beach, next to the eco-lodge Nzuwa , Pemba hides his last great secret: the small natural pools They form at low tide. There are some deep enough to be lulled to sleep. The only drawback will be that, in the meantime, the tide rises.
This area of the beach, the farthest from the city, offers the best sunset snapshot, that exact moment in which the sun colors a reddish sea. Before or after dinner, it is worth taking a walk through the small village of nañimbe, with its traditional market, and visit the cultural center Tambo Tambulani Tambo , where they organize painting exhibitions, poetry readings and live concerts.
And for the stomach? Nothing better than some of the pieces of fish that have accompanied us throughout the day. Sea urchins, swordfish, lobster or fresh tuna that the most experienced can even fish themselves. There is no better way to end a day in Pemba.
The Pemba coast offers many activities
POINT
Although it is a destination in itself, Pemba can also be the starting point to discover the northern Mozambican. from the nearby Murrebue , for lovers of kite-surfing, to the unforgettable archipelago of the Quirimbas , an extended and, if possible, even more spectacular version of Pemba Bay, a place worth a trip in its own right. From Pemba you can easily reach the Ibo Island , the most important of those that make up the natural park, either by plane (no more than 200 dollars) or in one of the traditional plates that, after just over five hours and just over six euros, will leave us next to the boat to arrive to Ibo. The only thing to keep in mind is that it is imperative to arrive when the tide is High to be able to cross.
The Niassa National Reserve, one of the last wild enclaves in this region of Africa, is another nearby destination. Although it is a region isolated and difficult to access, can be found in Pemba companies and individuals that carry out visits to the same. It is a park of 42,000 square kilometers, almost double that of the park kruger , which its location isolated from the armed conflict. This is probably how the national park is today with greatest wealth of fauna and flora in the entire country : more than 10,000 elephants live here, 200 of which are almost extinct lyaon (or African wild dog), as well as lions, leopards, hyenas, zebras or the also endemic Niassa wildebeest. Safety pin.
Visit the Niassa reserve to see the almost extinct wild dogs