Maasai on top of the Suswa volcano
** Kenya **, with a population and size similar to that of Spain, is a pressure cooker in which the most brazen technological ingenuities mingle with the most fundamental nature , where you can see rhinoceroses with skyscrapers in the background and where a Maasai asks for your Whatsapp number so you can stay in touch.
Pack your boots and get ready to hike some of the most scenic trails you'll ever see. Camp on top of the Suswa volcano , in communion with nature. Go up to the crater of the nearby longonot dormant volcano , which rises insolent in the middle of the Valle de la Falla (Rift Valley). Crush your legs ascending to the elephant hill and contemplate the majestic Mount Kenya (5,199 meters) in the distance before you dare to assault it. Bundle up to deal with the cold nights in its domain, with the snow on its top and with the chilling landscapes that can be seen from there.
Still unsatisfied? Then keep moving your legs a little further to the northwest, in the vicinity of Eldoret , a mecca for the best runners on the planet. Mingle with them and try to keep up with them - probably unsuccessfully - at dawn on red dirt roads through endless tea plantations of the Nandi Hills . Or next to the gorge of the Kerio Valley , in Iten, epicenter of world athletics.
Tea plantations in the Nandi Hills
Not far from there hides the spectacular Kakamega Rainforest , the ideal place for a few days of rest and silence in the company of the most overwhelming nature. The gigantic trees spread out like a vegetal carpet to the border with Uganda and crown Mount Elgon.
If green tires you, travel north, to the territory of the ochers , and contemplate the desert in Marsabit and the psychedelic colors that it gives and l Lake Turkana , home to the least “westernized” tribes in the country. Or the Natron and Magadi lakes, in the extreme south of the country. And round off the experience by walking among the Gede Swahili Ruins , a kind of Cambodian Angkor Wat (to scale) on the Kenyan coast. And if it hasn't been enough for you, then -and only then- try to lose yourself in the savannah or take a nap in the shade of a palm tree. But do yourself a favor and don't settle for that.
Lake Turkana
WHAT YOU CAN'T MISS
Mount Kenya
Mount Kenya is the mountain that gives the country its name, where the god of the Kikuyu dwells (the majority tribe of Kenya) . After Kilimanjaro the second highest mountain in the continent. To ascend it you have to be minimally fit and you need at least two nights if you want to enjoy a complete mountaineering experience. Reach Lenana Peak (4,985 meters above sea level) at dawn after a cold climb with the light of the lanterns guiding the way is compensated by the excellent views. The highest peak, however, is Batian (5,199 meters), but to access it it is necessary to perform technical climbing. If you can, return to civilization via the Chogoria route , among magical landscapes halfway between those described in J. R. R. Tolkien's novels and those invented by Tim Burton for his films.
Mount Kenya
Kakamega Forest National Reserve
Don't let the name fool you. **Kakamega is the only humid tropical forest in the region**, with spectacular trees tens of meters high and a multitude of native fauna: from red-tailed monkeys to butterflies of hundreds of species. Kakamega is one of the nature reserves most forgotten by the great tourist routes and, surely for that reason, one of the best places in Kenya. If you are looking for a hiding place of deep vegetation where you can breathe deeply, not see tourists around, trails where you can get lost and get to know a much less traveled part of the country, you have just found it.
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The cradle of the best long-distance runners on the planet (with permission from the Ethiopians) it is a lively little town whose economy has been boosted by the strides of its inhabitants . Going for a run with the Kenyans is a somewhat humbling experience, but it is made up for by jogging along reddish dirt roads at dawn, while the sun illuminates unparalleled landscapes. The 2,400 meters above sea level -one of the keys to the strength of the athletes- place the town at the top of the gorge that overlooks the Kerio Valley, an exceptional place to fly paragliding or, if you are less intrepid, go hiking.
Mombasa–Nairobi Railway
If you feel like adventure, do not miss the opportunity to return to Nairobi from the coast aboard the Lunatic Express . The train is an experience in itself, more than a journey. Get into the skin of Phineas Fogg and travels to the beginning of the 20th century in the Mombasa and Nairobi railway stations, and it dawns after a night of rattling to contemplate giraffes, zebras, wildebeests and antelopes in the Kenyan savannah, which the road cuts like a scar in the country. The comfort is also that of the early twentieth century, dinner and breakfast on board can leave something to be desired, the train may take 14 hours to connect Mombasa with Nairobi -if it's punctual-, but, didn't you feel like adventure?
Iten, the epicenter of athletics
Funzi
Being alone on a paradisiacal beach without being harassed by street vendors is still possible. go to Funzi, an island surrounded by mangroves near the border with Tanzania . For little Funzi you can only move on foot , as there are no vehicles, a perfect excuse to enjoy the environment and the people more closely. At nightfall, thousands of stars populate the sky seen from Funzi, a destination still quite virgin to tourism. Diving is another of the outstanding activities.
Kibera
One of the largest slums on the continent, with nearly half a million inhabitants, and one of the least dangerous in the capital. Although some locals interpret that Westerners carry out "poverty tourism", It is essential to know the reality of the majority of the country's urban population, not far from big luxury hotels. ** Kibera Tours organizes guided tours of the favela whose profits remain in the local community.** If you are interested in learning more and collaborating to mitigate the situation, Power Women Group is a group of HIV-positive women -many of them abandoned by the same husbands who infected them - who are dedicated to selling souvenirs whose profits they try to make a living and combat the stigma caused by the virus.
Fuzi Island, pure nature
TOP RESTAURANTS
Talisman, Nairobi
Probably, best restaurant in nairob Yo. Continental food with exotic touches in a neat colonial-inspired building with a large garden. Located in the leafy and exclusive neighborhood of Karen, Talismán is an excellent option for eating during the weekend, when the volume of traffic is lower in the Kenyan capital. Feel like an aristocrat of the early 20th century and take a seat at this restaurant after visiting the nearby home of Baroness Blixen. (It is advisable to book in advance).
**Tamarind, Mombasa**
The Swahili coast has one of its best stops in this arabesque-inspired building. French cuisine with Asian and African touches, and delicious cocktails overlooking the channel that separates the island of Mombasa from the mainland. If it is not enough for you to devour lobster on the mainland with the old port of the city, Fort Jesus and -if you are lucky- some whale in the background, jump aboard the luxurious felucca that the restaurant itself charters several times a week (book in advance).
**Ali Barbour's Cave, Diani**
Do you need ideas for a romantic dinner? How about doing it by candlelight in an impressive coral cave? An opening above the central hall of the cave allows you to see the stars on clear nights. Relaxed and exotic atmosphere with good food and best cocktails . The Forty Thieves give their name to the nearby disco-bar, considered one of the best beach clubs in the world.
French cuisine with Asian touches
**Il Covo, Bamburi Beach**
Twenty minutes by tuk-tuk from the center of Mombasa heading north is enough to reach one of the best Italian restaurants on the coast. Spaghetti ai frutti di mare (spaghetti with seafood) in a tower overlooking the Indian Ocean are hard to beat . Pizzas prepared in a traditional oven and an unbeatable location. It also serves Japanese food. . At night it becomes a bar-discotheque.
**Open House, Nairobi**
When the British set out to conquer the continent from the coast, they brought thousands of Indian laborers to what is now Kenya to build a railway that would split the country in two. Many of those workers stayed in the colony and today there are several good Indian food restaurants in the country run by their descendants, among which Open House undoubtedly stands out. Clean surroundings, good service, and fantastic curries.
**Purdy Arms, Nairobi.**
Forget the hustle and bustle of Nairobi at this English tavern-restaurant in the Karen neighborhood . The best service in the whole city in the middle of endless gardens and good western and local dishes, ranging from the hamburger to the tilapia with orange sauce. It fills up (and gets very lively) whenever there are rugby matches to watch on TV.
The gastronomic festival of Karen's neighborhood
TOP HOTELS
**Fairview Hotel, Nairobi**
The best choice for luxury accommodation in central Nairobi. Located in a safe neighborhood (courtesy of the nearby Israeli Embassy), the Hotel Fairview offers very competitive prices for services at the level of large international hotel chains. Comfortable, pleasant, with several restaurants to choose from and well-kept gardens.
**African Heritage House. Nairobi**
Is house-museum-hotel treasures art from all over the continent and. The owner, an American who came to Kenya in the 1970s, created a large export company for African art and, after going bankrupt at the turn of the century, retired to this Malian-inspired house on the Swahili coast. Guided tours with lunch or dinner can be booked , as well as spending the night in the original rooms of the building, with views of the Nairobi National Park. Each room and each bathroom are works of (African) art in themselves.
**Rondo Retreat, Kakamega**
This hotel was anchored in the colonial era. With spectacular gardens, the buildings and rooms are reminiscent of those of the aristocrats who arrived in Africa at the beginning of the 20th century. Care to detail, comfortable, pleasant and quiet, Rondo Retreat offers half board or full board stays at very reasonable prices. The retreat here can also be spiritual, It is promoted as a Christian hotel, although no one forces guests to profess any kind of faith.
**Funzi Mangrove Resort, Funzi Island**
If you have never arrived at your hotel by boat, over the waters of the Indian Ocean and through mangrove forests, this is your opportunity. The facilities of this hotel include gigantic rooms, a recently opened swimming pool , a huge living-dining room where you can taste crab or relax reading and improvised nightly bonfires in the light of the moon. The bar comes alive in the evenings with hotel guests. If you want to get out of the fabulous isolation of the hotel, ask them to organize a speedboat to the nearby strip of land, where you can enjoy a beach for yourself . They will be in charge of setting up a shade and providing the necessary drinks.
Competitive prices and complete services
**Saruni Lodge, Samburu. Kalama Reserve, next to Samburu National Park.**
One of the most exclusive accommodations for one of the most exclusive safaris. A away from all civilization and hidden on a hill in the Kalama Reserve (in the center-north of Kenya), the Saruni offers 'suits' with living-dining room, bedroom and bathroom with bathtub, all of them with their corresponding terrace with breathtaking views. From the terrace of the bathroom, where the shower is located, the top of Mount Kenya can be seen in the distance. Two swimming pools -also with views- complete the enclosure, where several harmless animals roam freely.
Kerio View Hotel, Iten
The hotel with the highest concentration of world champions per square meter. Strong dishes and clean rooms overlooking the imposing Kerio valley . The abundant breakfasts outside the restaurant while contemplating the valley are complemented by reading times in the shade in the large gardens. A very relaxed place where any day you can be dining with a two-time marathon world champion.
The perfect break in the Kalama reserve
SHOPPING
** Kitengela **, 30 km from Nairobi
Although it has stores spread across various malls in Nairobi, visiting Kitengela Central Studio is more than just shopping. See how recycled glass cups, vases or trays are made in the ovens , products that are then put on sale in the establishment itself, well compensates for the trip. This original business has made a name for itself in the world of glassware, but also in the world of art.
** Kuona Trust ,** Nairobi.
Tired of the classic “African” souvenirs? Are you interested in contemporary local art? Kuona Trust houses the workshops of some twenty painters and sculptors who work with any material at their disposal: from bottle caps to advertising papers, through glass or wood. In general, they are extroverted people who will have no problem chatting with visitors to explain their work. They have a store where they put their works on sale.
Biashara Street, Nairobi.
In “shopping street” (which is what it means, in Swahili) , in the financial district of Nairobi, you will find, above all, local textiles. Kangas, kitenges, kikoys and even Maasai blankets of all imaginable colors and designs. No tourist market will sell them for a better price than the shops on Biashara Street, where they can even be purchased by the meter to make your own cushions, tablecloths, napkins and even curtains. Traders, usually Indian, offer discounts if multiple pieces are purchased.
**KikoRomeo, Nairobi**
Founded by a Scottish designer who worked for several years in Barcelona , KikoRomeo sells Western designer clothing with high quality African prints. Elegant, modern, original and colorful . In her store, in the Yaya shopping center, you can find clothing for men and women, as well as accessories such as covers for laptops and tablets. The store itself also offers a service to tailor the clothes you choose.
mombasa market
Of Portuguese and Arab influence, M Ombasa concentrates all the invented fragrances in a fish market in the center of the city. The mountains of spices mix with the fruit while, a couple of corridors further on, the meat and, above all, the fish prevail over the other smells. in the surrounding streets, carpenters, jewelers and raffia craftsmen they have the genre in view of passers-by.
Maasai markets, Nairobi
Several times a week (especially on weekends) Yaya, Prestige, Junction, and Village Market shopping malls, among others, they organize markets in which local merchants sell figurines, textiles, paintings, masks and even lamps. If you need to buy a last-minute gift before heading to the airport, you may be saved out of a bind. All prices are negotiable, of course.
*** You may also be interested in...**
- Kenya: wildlife and art in the savannah
- Five anecdotes about Kenya that I wrote down on a napkin
- Kenya, this is how an ecosystem in movement is observed
The real souvenir from Kenya