Manila does not deserve to be a transit city
FIRST DAY
Let's say you wake up when the plane touches down in Manila. You pick up your suitcase as you discover that yes, your jet lag is of colossal proportions and that, if you try to go to bed now, you will have disrupted sleep all vacation. Better to flee from the Ninoy Aquino airport in Manila, that anthill of infernal temperatures considered one of the worst and most uncomfortable in the world. Where? Towards historic Manila . Dive right into that fabulous historical-cultural megamix which is the Philippines.
So jump in a cab and ask for a ride intramural , the area (walled, as you may have deduced from the name) that the Spanish built when they took control of the territory in the 16th century, then as a province of the Viceroyalty of Mexico . It is what would become the old part of the city. You can tour the area from the top of the walls (at street level, the road responds to the original name of wall street ), or go directly to the main avenue, General Luna Street , which crosses the neighborhood from north to south.
But the jewel of Intramuros is Fort Santiago and you would do well to join the guided tours carried out by the activist and comedian Carlos Celdrán. The irreverent Celdrán will give you all the keys to understand the history of the Philippines, and of Manila in particular, in a couple of hours. And you will also have a good laugh with this theatrical walk: from pre-colonial Manila, to the fight against Spanish domination, the times of the American colony ( Spain sold it to him for $200,000! ) and the one devastated by World War II (did you know that it was the second most devastated allied city only behind Warsaw?). The route ends in front of the church of San Agustín and next to a good place to do with a souvenir: a store called the crazy nun (yes) .
From Intramuros, you can head towards Binondo , the oldest Chinatown in the world. Understand: outside of China. Binondo is just across the Pasig River , and it was where the Spanish settlers placed the Chinese, all packed there, within gunshot to keep them under control. Between both groups, centuries ago, the always endearing exchanges of blows took place, which by then you will already have controlled because your friend Celdrán will just tell you about it.
The origin of the Chinatowns of the world is in Manila, in the neighborhood of Binondo
Choose the means of transport that you like best to cross the river (if you accept a tip, go in pedicab ) and marvel at the apparently absurd mixing festival that is Binondo : you pass under the Arch of the Sino-Philippine friendship , you go to the Calderon de la Barca Square... If you feel hungry, maybe you could take advantage of the occasion to have some pintxos, but it would still sell you better to reserve to eat at La Cocina de Tita Moning. This mansion, belonging to the Legarda family, in the San Miguel neighborhood has offered exquisite food since the 1930s, when Alejandro Legarda's wife, Ramona Hernández **(la Tita Moning)**, reached a certain level of local celebrity thanks to the banquets that he prepared. The house also it is a real museum and preserves many of the rooms as they were at the time their owners lived there. The atmosphere and food are hard to beat.
The legendary bread from La Cocina de Tita Moning
If you feel like taking a nap after the binge, go back to Intramuros, go up to the roof of the Bayleaf Hotel and sit down to have a drink while the sun sets over the Indian Ocean . On clear days, the sunsets are spectacular.
But since you are in Manila and this city is like a book of choose your own adventure , you can skip that chapter and get on the elevated subway (the so-called sky train ) in the nearby legarda station . In six stops you will be in Araneta Center-Cubao , after going through stations like “Pureza” or “Betty Go Belmonte”. Really: Philippines is a fun country . There are those who call their children Lebron James or Michael Jordan, in a basketball version of the Spanish classic Kevin Costner de Jesus. Because that's why you went to the Araneta Center, to see one of the biggest Filipino follies: basketball . Buy some tickets and be amazed by the great atmosphere in the stands and on the track, the result of half a century of American colonization.
Don't miss the views from the Sky Deck at the Bayleaf Hotel
Then, either by taxi or elevated subway, head south to Makati , the financial district of Metro Manila, where you can find very luxurious, very affordable and decent accommodation. In the zone of P. Burgos is the red light district of the city, as well as some restaurants for a delicious dinner. Very popular is El Chupacabra, very good Mexican cuisine. Let's not forget that the Philippines started out as a province of what was then Spanish Mexico, so don't twist your face with the thought of “I didn't come here to eat at a Mexican”. At the end of the day, you spend the day between the Spanish quarter, the Chinese quarter and an American show. The Philippines is largely that mix. But hey, if Mexican is heavy for you, in the same area is the Corner Tree Cafè, a vegetarian that even those of us who are not followers of the zucchini religion like. For dessert, don't hesitate: banoffee pie to end the day.
Squids in El Chupacabra
SECOND DAY
On your second day at Metro Manila we're going to take it easy: you're going to see the most modern aspect of the city, although perhaps you should start by taking a walk around the American Cemetery, at Fort Bonifacio. It is the largest cemetery that Uncle Sam has outside its borders and burials more than 17,200 soldiers who fought for Washington, each marked with a white marble cross, in what constitutes an amazing funerary drawing. More than 36,000 other names are engraved on the central building, for each of those who fell in the Pacific during World War II. Despite the apparently macabre of a cemetery, this is a fantastic park, well kept, fresh and green in the middle of the jungle of skyscrapers that the real estate bubble raises in Fort Bonifacio.
Go back to Makati and get a massage . Touch and Heal can be a good value for money option, but if you are looking for something more exclusive, go to The Spa . They have a branch at Greenbelt 1, one of the endless shopping centers where you can go to eat when you come out feeling like new after a groping session. Don't worry, Greenbelt is not the typical glass cage of so many shopping malls, but there is a central garden that all the restaurants overlook. If you want to try a good hamburger: burger bar. The lemonade and the music (classic rock) they play complete the experience.
Walk down the burger to ** Kultura **, a very original souvenir shop that is only two and a half shopping centers away from the Burger Bar. And you can walk through all of them under the shelter of air conditioning and... without stepping on the street! This consumerist barrabasada is worth seeing. And of course, Kultura is, along with La Monja Loca, one of the best places to get a Filipino souvenir.
Let yourself be pampered at The Spa
At dusk you can direct your steps towards the Ayala Triangle, Once a pleasant park in downtown Makati that is now eating up the building frenzy. The triangle is formed by the space between Makati avenues, Ayala and Paseo de Roxas , in what – they say – years ago were the runways of the airport. The control tower was what is now the **Black Bird Restaurant**, where reservations are recommended if you want to be sure of finding a place for dinner. Pay attention to how you dress , because in some places they require a minimum of etiquette: sandals, shorts and tank tops do not fall under that code.
Then get lost for the first drink of the night: try to find the Exit Bar , a secret bar with innovative cocktails, of good quality and at a good price very close to The Spa massages . Difficult for you to take just one drink. But be careful not to drink more than necessary, because you have to continue getting to know the Manila nightlife at the Gramercy, and surely you will not want to suffer more vertigo than is necessary from this bar located in a 71st floor.
finish high
*** You may also be interested in...**
- Tapas in the oldest Chinatown in the world... in Manila
- Binondo in six photographic steps
- Manila in a thousand means of transport
- Things you should know before traveling to the Philippines
- Philippines without additives
- The 50 best beaches in the world
- 20 reasons why the Philippines will be the next great tourist destination
- How to combat jet lag
- 48 hours in Nice
- 48 hours in London
- 48 hours in Venice
- 48 hours in Porto
- All articles by Javier Triana