Guide to Nicaragua with... Joel Gaitán

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Guide to Nicaragua with... Joel Gaitn

His art represents the unrepresented. Joel Gaitán, a Nicaraguan living in Miami, he uses elements of poetry, colors, food and storytelling in his work, which connects him with his culture and his country of origin. "I create terracotta pots and paintings that use a lot of symbolism and synchronization of religions and languages. Ceramics have always been very relevant in Central America, from its use for fermentation to the presentation of food, instruments, funeral urns and artistic expression. It is important for me to maintain that importance and the history of this art form, as a recognition to the people of my country."

This interview is part of "The World Made Local", a global project of Condé Nast Traveler in the seven international editions, which gives voice to 100 people in 100 countries to discover why their own territory should be your next destination.

Tell us about yourself and Nicaragua…

Nicaragua (Nicanahuac) It is the land of lakes and volcanoes, it is powerful, magical and Mother. My mother's family is from Estelí, while my father is from San Juan de La Concepción. My happy places are my grandmother's house, eating fresh gallopinto with tortillas and walking up and down in Masaya, the beautiful City of Flowers, buying works and plants from local artists!

What do you miss the most about Nicaragua when you are away?

The people and the food. Nicaraguans are the friendliest and funniest in the world!

Describe your work...

Right now I am working on a new collection of terracotta pots and installations for my next show. My inspiration always comes from the earth. And I organize monthly ceramic workshops called "Manos Quemadas" to teach people this sacred art form and its history and importance.

self portrait

self portrait

If a friend was visiting Nicaragua, what would you tell him to do?

Visit the city of Granada, a colorful colonial city famous for the Baho (Vaho) dish. Cooked and served in banana leaves known as “hoja de chagüite” for Nicaraguans, includes meat, plantain and cassava. It is mainly enjoyed on Sundays and originated from the mixture of indigenous, Spanish and Afro-Nicaraguan cultures. From there, I would tell him to go to nearby Masaya, the cradle of national folklore. There you can buy authentic Nicaraguan jewelry at the Mercado Viejo, including hammocks, leather goods, paintings, ceramics and clothing, all handmade.

Then, a walk to the Masaya volcano to see the lava pools. A dip in Laguna de Apoyo is also essential! EITHER listen to live marimba music while enjoying delicious street food (Quesillos or Cajetas) in the Mirador de Catarina. Then head up the coast to San Juan del Sur, which is a beautiful and colorful beach town. There you can enjoy the waves, a drink in the local bars and delight yourself with some of the best seafood I have ever tasted. To finish, a walk to the statue of Cristo de la Misericordia, and enjoy the impressive views!

What are your all-time favorite places that you always come back to?

If you doubt they are the pre-Columbian ceramic museums, which are all over Nicaragua. One of my favorite places is the Museum of Archeology and History Cihuacoatl in Sébaco, Matagalpa, with its collection of local ceramics, stones and statues. The El Ceibo Museum in Ometepe is also a must-see. There is a large selection of funerary urns, jewelry and pottery aisles with different phases of pottery. A detailed tour is provided and afterwards you can enjoy a drink of Cojollo, a sacred liquor made from rice/corn that is still made on the island.

What or who excites you about Nicaragua right now?

The city of Granada has a special place in my soul. From its colorful walls and the history behind them, to the incredible food and views of the Mombacho Volcano. You must have delicious food and coffee at The Garden Cafe, where they also serve chocolate, kombucha, and artisan and local products. This place is very well run and very involved with the youth and the community. A couple of blocks away you have The Casa Violeta, where you must reserve in advance. This is a beautiful house from El Camino Travel, which has a wonderful interior design and is full of local art. At night, head to La Calzada, you will find live music, bars and restaurants with a variety of styles (also suitable for vegans). Take a look at the local jewelery artists: they will win you over with the earrings, more exclusive rings and bracelets, and also with its pieces of art.

Is there anything else we shouldn't miss?

The locality of Jinotega and Black Ceramics, from the San Expedito Cooperative. This cooperative in Las Cureñas is owned by a group of talented women who are dedicated to the art of black Nicaraguan pottery. The process of this sacred craft is magical. You can take a tour of the studio, learn about the clay-making process, participate in a workshop with the artists themselves, and shop for beautiful pieces.

To take you home...

Any type of pottery! Nicaraguan pottery is extremely sophisticated and rich in ingenuity. You must visit the town of San Juan de Oriente in Masaya, which is dedicated to pottery. Very eye-catching glasses, crockery and pieces for home decoration are available in this town! You can also do a workshop in the artist studio if you ask.

A dish that you have to order for sure?

You can never go wrong with our traditional Fritanga platter. Includes Gallopinto, roast pork or chicken, sweet plantains or slices, fried cheese, tortillas and coleslaw. Or Nacatamales, which is our version of a tamale made with corn dough, pork seasoned with achiote, rice, potatoes, congo chili, wrapped in a banana leaf. The presentation is incredible and is enjoyed with fresh bread or tortillas and a cup of coffee. Only on Sundays. Both dishes can be found throughout Nicaragua; but they will find you, don't worry.

A natural wonder?

The Island of Ometepe (Ome-Tepetl), which translates as 'two mountains' in Nahuatl. It is formed by two volcanoes that rise from Lake Nicaragua and offers nature reserves, a spring pool, volcano hikes, waterfalls, and beautiful pre-Columbian ceramics. It is also known as the breasts of Nicaragua.

Meet me for a drink at...

Support Lagoon! You will see me here drinking rum, in this lake that occupies the caldera of an extinct volcano. You can get a beautiful view of the lake in the city of Catarina, Masaya.

A hero from your hometown?

For me, it will always be the street vendors. My family comes from families of street vendors. Nobody works as hard as them. I love the beautiful chants they shout in the streets to let you know what they have, their delicious street food and fresh fruits and vegetables. You name it, they have it.

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