Roman bridge over the river Tâmega
The thermal town of Chaves has seen barbarians, Visigoths and Muslims pass through its streets. This town in the north of Portugal is a thousand-year-old city and its history began when the romans they discovered that here they sprouted thermal waters with therapeutic properties.
The city began to grow around the benefits of these waters and its beautiful Roman bridge , considered the oldest in Portugal. Strolling through its streets is the closest thing to getting on a time machine that travels back to Roman times when this town was known as “Acquae Flaviae” , name given by Emperor Flavius Vespasian for all the hot springs found in the area. The quality of its waters is extraordinary - they are mineral-medicinal waters –, for therapeutic purposes to treat various ailments.
Cattle through the streets of Chaves
How to get:
Chavez belongs to Vila Real district and is located 10 km from the border with Spain. To get there, you have to take the A6 motorway that leads to Benavente. Then you have to turn off onto the A-52, which leads to the town of Verín in Ourense and in a few kilometers, on the A-75, you will find your destination.
What to see:
The history of this city of water is marked by battles against Romans, Visigoths, Muslims, French and Spanish. For this reason, the main attractions of Chaves are its imposing fortifications and monuments historical. During the 19th century numerous combats were held here, among which the fight against French troops stands out. The first loss he suffered Napoleon in Portuguese lands it was in Chaves.
We tour its historic center, known as the Castle District , to discover a picturesque architecture in its urban nucleus with small colored houses full of balconies on the upper floors that were built to make the space profitable. The most notable buildings in the city are grouped around two squares, the Praça de Camões and Praça da República.
We make a stop at the first and we find the Paços do Concelho building, the mansion most beautiful in the city, built in the mid-19th century. Before concluding its construction, it was put up for sale by its owner and acquired by the Chaves town council in 1861 and, since then, it has served as town hall . In the square there are also three churches: the Church of Santa Maria Maior, the Church of Misericordia and the Chapel of Senhora da Cabeça.
The Tamega River
Good food is also present in Chaves and it is well worth making a stop to taste its history with your palate. In the mary patisserie , with more than 50 years of history – essential also for its colorful and flowery façade – it is time to try the Chaves pastries , very typical of the city's confectionery and one of its symbols. Are some savory cakes made with puff pastry and stuffed with minced pork meat, also present in the empanadas and in the folar of Chaves , a traditional bread ball.
The Chavez Castle It was built on a Roman fort and fortification. Currently, it only conserves the Torre de Homenaje and the remains of the walls that surrounded the old citadel. It was razed to the ground several times, during the Germanic and Arab invasions, and later rebuilt. Going up to the imposing Torre del homage del XIV century , which houses a military museum, you can immortalize with a camera the landscape in which its leafy garden merges with the Tâmega valley . From above, the numerous Roman and medieval remains scattered around the garden area such as milestones and objects such as sundials are discovered.
The most fun in Chaves is strolling around, so you have to get lost wandering around the Rua Direita , the main street of the Barrio del Castillo. Halfway down the road another main square opens up, the Praça da República, in the center of which stands the Pelourinho , a column that represents the judicial independence of the city. From Roman times, the Trajan's bridge –140 m long– over the Támega River, which can be crossed by jumping from one stone to another.
To eat you can make a stop at the Carvalho Restaurant , in front of the Tobolado garden, very close to the river. A very cozy place with an extensive menu that stands out for its elaborate fumeiro rice with naco de vellum and the famous cod from Portugal . The desserts are all homemade, like its unique chocolate foam and fluffy tiramisu.
Our last stop could not be anywhere other than its famous Roman terms , which were discovered in 2006 during the construction of a car park, located in the Largo do Arrabalde.
Chaves Termas & Spa is among the five best preserved Roman medicinal spas in the world. Its waters have unique composition in the Iberian Peninsula and the hottest sodium bicarbonate waters in Europe. They are considered "hyperthermal" because they sprout at 73 °C and experts recommend them for ailments of the digestive system, including rheumatic or muscular problems. In addition, their high silica content makes them beneficial for skin care.
The thermal complex has several swimming pools fed by two hot springs . On leaving, outside the spa, there is an open-air fountain called Fonte do Povo (Fountain of the Town) in which to take the medicinal water. But be careful, the taste is not very pleasant and it comes out at a constant temperature of 73 °C.
The Chavez hot springs in 1930
Where to sleep:
After a long time without traveling, it is a good plan to pay homage to Vidago Palace, 15 minutes from Chaves: a 5-star hotel that stands in the middle of a forest dotted with medicinal waters in a centennial park with more than 100 hectares . Crossing a path of pebbles between centuries-old trees, you reach a pink facade with balconies , typical of Romeo and Juliet.
The hotel was built for the portuguese monarchy at the beginning of the 20th century, although before they could release it, a Republic was proclaimed. Combine the luxury of Belle Epoque with contemporary and tropical touches: the perfect hiding place to get away from the rush, the place where time stops to enjoy the here and now or to devour one of those books that make you lose track of space and time. Its interior transports guests to a film of the Lumiere brothers with can-can, French music and dancers; but also with rooms equipped with a dream bed, designer bathrooms and, on the other side of the window, views dotted with a botanical garden.
The hotel has four restaurants and a winery where you can taste the most famous export wine in the country. After a good banquet, it is advisable to take a walk through its romantic gardens to explore the area and discover what it has to offer. several lakes and an impressive golf course of 18 holes, becoming a kind of mecca to challenge the most experienced golfers. In regards to your spa , there are several awards that it has, being considered not only one of the best in Europe, but also in the world, made up of an indoor pool and an outdoor pool, surrounded by a leafy grove that intoxicates with the sounds of nature.
Rest, exquisite breakfasts and calm walks. Chaves more than fulfills its promises to be an ideal trip straight to the tranquility and peace , so welcome in these times. Let's go?