Switzerland is everything you expect and more
** Swiss **. What name soft and delicious . Switzerland lives in me, as in so many, in the form of green meadows with grazing cows, of imposing mountains, rivers and fairytale lakes, of wooden chalets with geraniums on the balcony.
Switzerland tastes like cheese , to hot chocolate afternoons huddled around the fireplace ; but they are also the two syllables of charming little towns , of cantons in which everything is decided in common, of a unlikely harmony made of four languages and multiple borders, and of international cities where it is decided the fate of the world.
How then to cover all realities from Switzerland? Simple: following the path that runs through the entire country through its most emblematic attractions, or what is the same: The Grand Tour of Switzerland , a road itinerary 1,600 kilometers passing through 22 lakes, 12 World Heritage Sites, two Biosphere Reserves, five large mountain passes...
But there is no need to be overwhelmed, because there is no need to all the way in one go -although if you feel like it, calculate that you would need, at least, a month-; can be decided in advance what area are we interested in more to explore, because the Great Route is divided into ten stages with different starting points, and can even be reached from the neighboring countries of France Germany and Italy . Just follow the white and red signs with the legend "grand tour", or better yet: plan the route from home with all the comforts and details imaginable from the ** My Switzerland website,** and choose from there to the Hotels in which to sleep -which, in the Swiss country, are always of excellent quality-. This, of seven days, was the itinerary what we decided:
Our route will take you from lakes to mountains, passing through beautiful cities and towns
DAY 1: ARRIVAL IN GENEVA
We decided to start The Grand Tour of Switzerland by Geneva , which offers excellent air connections with Spain, and as soon as you get off the plane, the clichés come true: watch advertising , banks, chocolate and jewelries They watch our steps. And suddenly, a beautiful appeal accompanied by a movie scene: "Kiss here."
Before leaving the airport, we stopped by Europcar , where we will pick up the car in which we will make our trip, and whose wonderful gps -really, it never fails- will guide our steps. With him we will move to the mythical Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues , in the center, and from which a short distance separates us.
Upon arrival, we are received with care and a delicacy extraordinary, erasing at a stroke our airport stress. They also help the immense fresh flower arrangement of the hall with soaring ceilings and a cozy decoration at the same time majestic , which reminds us that the building dates from 1834.
Behind our window, best views of the city: they see the Lake Geneva , the old city and even the snowy peaks of The Alps. Inside, one fireplace -our dreams are beginning to come true- and a welcome detail in the form of the best swiss cheese that we have ever tried.
Our fantasies continue to come true, reaching new heights when we enter the bathroom -designed, like the rest of the room, by Pierre Yves Rochon -: there we will take a long bath in the enormous bathtub, watered with bvlgari, and we will put an end to this first day of travel.
DAY 2: DEPARTURE TO NEUCHÂTEL
Today our route begins, so we gather strength with the four seasons breakfast s, one of the most appetizing we've tried -as well as decidedly **instagrammable**-. Its buffet offers everything you could expect from a breakfast five stars -fine pastries, natural juices, local cheeses and sausages, exquisite breads (they are all in Switzerland) -, but, in addition, it surprises us with a table with vegan preparations!
Before leaving to discover the city, a piece of advice: ask the Concierge to provide you with a sim card , because in Switzerland -which is not part of the European Union- roaming still exists . And then, yes: then you'll be ready to take a walk through the surroundings, including, of course, stores of the best brands in the world, eye-catching churches -also Orthodox- and quiet neighborhoods and ordered from beautiful gardens, in which everyone seems satisfied.
It is also worth approaching the surroundings of the Courthouse, where coquettish squares proliferate, liquor stores and specialties, luxury stationery and of course, art Galeries. And we say "of course" because, like the bookstores, They will be a common landscape on your trip, so prepare to see them even in the most remote of towns.
Back at the hotel, we walked along the shore of the lake and took pictures -it is inevitable- with the Jet d'Eau , the 140 meter high jet that emerges from the water. What started as a tool - it was a pressure limiter that made the machinery used in jewelry work - is today a tourist attraction which, inexplicably because of its simplicity, powerfully attracts attention.
In Geneva everything is stately and orderly
After half a day of walking, we return for the car and the suitcases; we say goodbye to our affectionate hosts and depart for Neuchatel, world capital of watchmaking for being the headquarters of the most important companies in this sector in the world.
To get to it, we will go through Nyon , a lakeside town whose riverside, populated with mansions and crowned by a fable Castle, well worth a stop. We will also leave behind the feeling -cradle of the art of watchmaking- and the small Yverdon-les-Bains -a thermal city in which, curiously, there is a ** science fiction museum ** and a shop of rarities from the world of comics-, to finally reach our destination.
For today, what we will do is go out to dinner and relax at the ** Beau Rivage Hotel Neuchâtel **, a beautiful Relais & Châteaux on the banks of the largest lake in the country -how the lakes always dress- whose rooms, of palatial Dimensions, They will ensure us a most restful sleep. If, in addition, we are lucky enough to stay in your Esplanade Suite, we will find several surprises: from a spyglass with which to scan the Bernese Alps to an exclusive and beautiful music Box manufactured by the artisans of Reuge . These experts are, of course, in Saint Croix, locality that we will also have left behind and where the mechanical music It has centuries of tradition.
And we were talking about dinner: we will enjoy it in the Hotel Palafitte , an amazing building in the form of a palafitte, raised over the water and designed by the architect Kurt Hoffman and the students of the prestigious hotel school L'Ecole Hôtelière on the occasion of the 2002 Swiss National Show.
At the table, we'll feel almost like in a boat while we taste the subtle cuisine of the chef Maxim Pot , which reinterprets Swiss cuisine through a viewer as contemporary and international like the hotel itself. Important: leave room for dessert, And not only because dessert in this country is religion; is that here he travels in a cart full of delicacies, that walks around the room seducing us until it finally reaches our plates.
DAY 3: DEPARTURE TO GSTAAD
We wake up with the blue presence of the lake reflecting in our pupils, and after a good breakfast, we take a walk through the nearby pier -there are four kilometers of them along the riverbank-. There we will find small beaches where friends gather to have lunch and statues dressed in typical attire of the Belle Epoque , when the pleasant ride was built.
In the historic center, delicious smells: those of the **Walder and Suchard chocolate shops ** and the cozy patisseries like Mader , which sell bread and sweets that would not detract from a royal banquet. They are in story facades, one of those with colored shutters, which form the backdrop of the squares where dozens of shops They chat animatedly.
Everything is from one extreme beauty, but don't put the camera away, because you'll want to do non stop photos of the road that goes up castle, cobbled floors and old houses. From there you will get a splendid view of the whole city: savor it with a drink in the cuckoo ** Café de la Colégialle **, and on the way down, don't forget to stop at the bookstore Le Cabinet d'Amateur ; although there is not a single copy in Spanish, You'll love it.
Now let's get back to the car and head for Gstaad. In doing so, we will go the typical Swiss stamp , that for which we have taken a plane. Do not lose sight of the landscape, because you will cross charming little villages of those of geraniums on the balconies, houses with delirious roofs beautiful, those essential meadows in which sheep and cows roam freely, stalls with vegetables and seasonal vegetables and Flower Fields that are silhouetted against the profile of the snowy mountains. Sounds delicious, right? It is!
The climb to the castle of Neuchâtel will dazzle you
Before reaching our destination, one last stop: we get off at Freiburg , medieval city that preserves 70 declared buildings and constructions national Landmarks, as their cable car, that uses wastewater as a counterweight! and that separates the upper part of the city from the riverbank sarin river. However, what will deceive us about the place is, above all, cozy that results and how warm its inhabitants are, who flood, noisy, the terraces.
In the center, lots of small shops of design objects, From precious toys to decorative items, they ensure a most entertaining ride. Here, of course, there are also art Galeries , but also record and cutting shops solidary. An essential visit? the dazzling Espace Jean Tinguelli , which pays homage to two artists from the second half of the 20th century who deeply marked the artistic life of the city: the imaginative Jean Tinguely and his wife, Niki de St Phalle.
Freiburg will touch your heart
We return to the car, now yes, to reach the end of our journey today. We typed into the GPS: **"Hotel Ermitage ** " and prepared ourselves for a good dose of relaxation ... although also of disappointment, because just one day there you will know little.
You want to stay, at least one week in this hotel that has everything to be happy: a gigantic spa and of quality; two outdoor swimming pools -one of them, hot throughout the year, so you can immerse yourself while it snows outside; a cinema, a cinema! in which every day films are projected -also for children-, but where, through a USB port, you can wear whatever you want; a game room with billiards and even an exclusive ACDC pinball; lounges with fireplaces and huge windows; a florist; a restaurant space -where breakfast is also served- divided into small rooms, each with a different style, so you can choose which one you like best... We could go on and on -for example, recommending that you book the wellness-suite , with a Jacuzzi overlooking the surrounding mountains - but we will only tell you not to make our mistake and make a stop here for at least two nights. You will thank us.
DAY 4: ROAD TO ZERMATT
Today we will visit Gstaad, a Swiss postcard in which, unfortunately, we already few swiss they live. Let's understand: it's a old village of chalets of wood that has been preserved beautiful and intact, but at the cost of filling its main street -it is very small- with high end stores and tea rooms.
Yes, because Gstaad belongs to that elite that comes in winter to ski and spend, but for the relevant photo it is well worth a walk. In fact, to enjoy nature that surrounds it, we can walk towards Saanen, a short distance, where we will find a small town similar in beauty but still not taken by foreigners. To do this, follow the signs, or ask at the tourist office in Gstaad.
We continue our journey heading towards Zermatt, another of Switzerland's alpine hits. In it is the Matterhorn , the most photogenic mountain in the world, and no cars allowed , only electric vehicles -there are all kinds, from taxis to trucks- with dimensions typical of Lilliputians. The objective is do not saturate the place, or disturb the surrounding protected environment.
But you will realize that later: until then, you will cross mountain roads through miles of vineyards, romantic castles , fir forests and even cattle fairs. Of course, there will be a bit of motorway too, because we will have to get away for a while from the great route . The reason? We are at the stage from Neuchâtel to Bern, but we decided to stop going up to go down the map and thus be able to return to Geneva on time.
Hardly any Swiss live in Gstaad anymore, but it's still beautiful
In the GPS, by the way, write " Tasch ", because Zermatt, we have already told you in advance, cannot be reached by car. You will have to take a train (8.20 francs round trip) that awaits you at the bottom of a landscape of waterfalls and towering rock walls and old wooden chalets in which no one seems to live. Upon arrival, choose one of the multiple parking lots from the area, where you can leave your car for about eight francs a day.
The journey on the tracks is short, and soon you'll be on point most tourist in switzerland , with varied attractions and prices. This is not Gstaad, it is much larger, with much more people, but yes, it also has high-end accommodations. To get away from the madding crowd, we chose the Hotel Matthiol , the last chalet in Schlumatten, an area where they still live neighbours -and not visitors- and that borders the mountains, making it perfect for undertaking trails on foot or by bike.
the place has young air and design, and is managed by a company only women Led by Sara, a Swiss woman who, by the way, used to work at ** the Palace of Gstaad ,** one of the most starred accommodations, famous and rich per square meter of the entire planet. But she got tired of that: she preferred to make luxury accessible, and she has achieved it in her perfect boutique for Instagram, with amenities made with local plants, a trendy restaurant in Zermatt and an informal and young atmosphere. We will sleep there tonight, but not before taking a hot bath overlooking the Matterhorn itself.
DAY 5: STAY IN ZERMATT
Today we will not step on the accelerator again: we will let ourselves be carried away by the calm of the area , which we will discover through a precious walk to an ancient glacier - they will give you a map to access it at reception.
we choose go on foot, although there are those who do it on two wheels in bold trails designed to raise the adrenaline, and we go through valleys where sheep graze , recreation areas in which to make bonfires and d have fun on the swings -there are even zip lines!-, vertiginous Hanging bridges -not far away you will find ** the longest in the world ** of this type-, more wooden houses -you will not get tired of seeing them-, rivers, giant stacked logs to overcome winter and panels explaining the geological and social history of the area, always besieged by the force of nature.
The possible excursions are endless, but the most obvious involves crest the matternhorn -by cable car, yes- going up to the highest mountain station in Europe, to 3,883 meters above the sea. There, the panoramic views of the largest glaciers in the alps and the impressive 38 alpine giants from Italy, France and Switzerland will take your breath away.
And if so much snow makes you want to ski, know that you can do it whatever day of the year it is, because the Zermatt resort open every day of the year for you to slide through its perpetual snow. By the way: in winter, children up to nine years old enjoy free of the entire ski area.
And the children, in general, will have a great time in Zermatt, where there are multitude of attractions dedicated to them, and others that will delight young and old, such as the picturesque Gornergrat, the tallest open-air cog railway on the continent. Nor for never, throw exquisite views over this winter panorama and is not suitable for the faint of heart, as it reaches up to 3,089 meters high.
Zermatt is beautiful at night and day
After an intense day outdoors, it's time to gather up and warm up by the edge of a fondue. We will take it in a place far from the tourist routes, where only the neighbors go: Waldhaus , a cute wooden restaurant run by a couple where they serve homemade food made with local produce. And the best thing is that it is very close to our hotel.
DAY 6: HEADING TO MONT PELÈRIN
We start the path that will close our circular route and will finally take us to Geneva. To do this, we leave behind the highest mountains and we return to the valleys, to the apple orchards - the Swiss apples, by the way, they are a real delicacy-, to the infinite lakes like tiny seas.
The one we will soon visit is the Leman, that with whose views we begin our trip, but before, we stop to rest and walk in Zion , sheltered between mountains. In fact, since its pretty historic helmet the peaks can be seen without difficulty, melting the natural view with the fortresses , castles and basilicas that prove the long and fruitful past of the place.
One more stop? For another perfect photo, it's worth stopping by chillon castle, that, built on a dramatic rock spur on the shores of the lake - whose waters reflect its towers - composes the fairy tale print with which you spent your childhood dreaming and inspired authors like Rousseau or Lord Byron. In fact, it was a poem by the latter, The prisoner of Chillon, the one that made him famous.
Chillon Castle deserves a photo
After this overload of beauty, we return to the car: write in the GPS " Hotel Le Mirador Resort & Spa "and soon you'll be traversing a country lane in Mont Pelerin ("Monte del Peregrino"), because that is where our hotel is located. aside, you will see woods and pastures ; to the other, the blue of the water and sky , a peaceful vision interrupted only by the sight of the old stately mansions looking for their place among the Lavaux Vineyards, declared Heritage of humanity by unesco.
You won't get tired of the views, the main attraction of this hotel in huge windows in which comfort is breathed. even in his indoor pool, on the top floor, continues the fabulous panorama , but also at the time of the excellent breakfast, and from the private cabins of the exclusive Givenchy Spa.
In reception, in addition, they will tell you where to start the multiple hiking trails in the surroundings, and they will tell you how to reach Vevy, that city that fell in love so much Charles Chaplin, that he spent his last years in it, like Henri Nestle, who founded his international company here.
you will in cable car, one of the most used means of transport in Switzerland, whose station is less than five minutes on foot from the hotel (where, by the way, they will offer you a free transport card , something that they will also do in a good number of accommodations throughout the trip). Once in Vevey, dedicate yourself to wander aimlessly through the old town, the church, the graveyard -curiously, without a fence that delimits it and within the city-, or walk quietly along the shore, where you will find the Le Corbusier's Villa Le Lac -also declared a World Heritage Site-.
Vevey: vineyards, lake and perfect mountains
DAY 7: RETURN TO GENEVA
Today we return to our starting point, but first, we make a detour of half an hour to enjoy the pleasures of Gruyeres , capital of the cheese that bears his name and a small fortified city with an idyllic landscape.
The main street, flanked by rows of century-old and picturesque houses -today art galleries, artisan workshops and souvenir shops- that accompany us until we reach the pertinent castle, is its main attraction.
However, science fiction fans will find another: the H.R. Giger museum , dedicated to the Swiss illustrator famous for creating the visual universe of alien movies, as well as its theme bar, recently opened.
Gruyères, the typical Swiss medieval town
After the visit, we return to join the road and head towards Lausanne , a university and cosmopolitan city, where art vibrates -especially music- and leisure more than any other stop on our trip.
Especially striking is the Quartier du Flon , in the center, made up of a series of old warehouses from 1900 converted into coolest spaces in the form of state-of-the-art shops, offices, homes and gambling dens. Also striking is the appropriation of the arcades under the bridge as a bar, whose look contrasts with the high steep alleys of which the old town is full.
And now yes: now we finally travel to Geneva, where the luxury without fanfare of the ** Mandarin Oriental Geneva ** awaits us, an institution in the city. after their superb panoramic windows we will feel turn off our last view of the city, while we settle into the King Size bed after a long, almost rejuvenating bath with products from Bottega Veneta.
A) Yes, relaxed and pampered, is how a trip should end, that the next morning will dawn with a breakfast that makes history and during which -it doesn't matter if we've been doing it the whole trip-, we'll refill the plate with delicious high-born cheeses and pastries. That is the flavor that we will take with us from Switzerland, while behind the pupils we are crowded hundreds of landscapes of the perfect lake and alpine postcard.
Lausanne is very much alive