bute park
DAY ONE
10:00 Tea at the gardener's house
As if it were a magnetic hole that absorbs everything, the cardiff castle It is the end of any tourist dabbling. However, before falling into its medieval attraction, it is worth walking its walls towards the river a bit and **have breakfast like a true Welshman in Pettigrew Tea Room **. It is located in the former house of the gardener who designed the William Burges , one of the greats of the Victorian style and the main reason that the 19th century in Great Britain was a constant nod to an idealized past time.
Inside continues that rupture in the space-time vortex. Everything seems to be taken from the clichés and the preterite , even the parishioners who regularly run their tables and greet with a "Buenos dias" Loud and lovable to the waiters. Of course it is a crime not to order a tea, but it is more of an offense not to accompany it for both sweets par excellence of this coquettish nation : the bara brith or Welsh bread, a biscuit-like bun pecked with delicious dried fruit that is 'gochea' by adding butter, and the welsh pie , a sweet with which the local pastry chefs demonstrate that they perfectly dominate the seasoned pancakes. An idyllic experience, Victorian to the max that works, also to start the most famous food tour in the city: Loving Welsh Food , although our path will go in another direction.
A route to discover the entrails of Welsh cuisine
11:00 The castle of the first millionaire
Before giving in to temptation and crossing the magnificent gate of the **castle**, the wall of animals leads the way. It is a relatively low wall compared to the medieval bastions whose main curiosity is that it is decorated with sculptures of cute little animals The secret? That the children of the Marquess of Bute wanted to have a zoo and his father did not . Intermediate solution.
The exterior walls keep another curiosity and that is that you can distinguish the first ashlars that the Romans placed back in the 1st century when they tried to conquer the island fighting against the local tribes. Here was born, therefore, the current Cardiff and inside this monument, the most visited in the city his story is summed up. There is no lack of medieval Norman fort surrounded by a deep moat or battlements with wooden protections to counteract invading attacks. Nevertheless, the jewel in the crown is the palace that he Marquess of Bute it was built in the west wing of the complex.
Because yes, this high-ranking tycoon had the money as punishment. His source of income was mainly the coal mines throughout Wales, which fed the English industries. Yes indeed, for decoration he did not have the same taste as for business . The interior of his former residence is a succession of historicist shrillness among which stands out the spiral staircase or the library , both with medieval details and references to other times.
Norman Bastion inside Cardiff Castle
1:00 p.m. From the park to the bay
In the old palatial gardens, the bute Park, the main city, a kind of miniature Hyde Park ideal for walking and hugging trees whoever wants it. In addition to the views offered by the everlasting castle, it has other tourist attractions such as the small jetty . Here a charming boat transports travelers up the River Taff to Cardiff Bay. Along the way, the portentous Principality Stadium it is shown for what it is, the new king of the city, while the course of the river guides through bridges, breweries and banks taken over by industry and wild nature. And at the end, three half an hour crossing the calm riverbed, the bay appears like a Promised land.
Bute's Pier
14:00 Lunch at Ffresh
But before deconstructing the great urban landmark of Wales in recent times, the stomach cries out for attention . The entire Siren Pier, as the restaurant and bar complex overlooking the sea is known, is full of tasty alternatives, although the best option of all is to eat in a monument. In this case in fresh a restaurant located inside the Millennium Center that little by little is winning over the palate of the Welsh based on well-resolved recipes with local products. Also, on its terrace, when the sun wants to come out, the dishes taste better seasoned with hustle and bustle and spring joy.
Welsh local produce recipes
15:30 An afternoon between docks, art and architects
The bay has become the icon of the new Cardif f a hit of memories and signature buildings. A very sexy mix that has in the Millennium Center its epicenter. Well, better said, its epicenter is in the letters and words that shine on its façade. They read, both in Welsh and English, two verses by the poet Gwyneth Lewis that pray "Creating truth as transparency of the cauldron of inspiration" and "In these stones the horizons sing" in a traditional architectural resource of this nation. The connection between folklore and building does not stick to this. As stated jonathan adams , its architect, with its shape and copper color, intends to emulate the armadillo, a very common animal in this territory. Be that as it may, this large space has become the face of the modern Cardiff while in its interior the inhabitants of the city crowd to enjoy its plays, dance and opera.
For tourists, apart from the frenzy and photogenicity, it has the attraction of architectural tours, many of them offered by Adams himself (yes, he is madly in love with his work). The other representative of contemporary models is the sened either welsh government building a work of Richard Rogers paraphernalia ceiling and Welsh materials such as dark wood or slate. Its aesthetic effect is simply 10 points on the Wows scale.
View of Cardiff Bay with the Senned and the Port Building
The past also has its share of glory in the bay. Specifically, in two coquettish buildings that act as a link with that time when the port was experiencing the fury of coal. One is the port office building , a reddish survivor that has some curiosity such as a relief commemorating the arrival of the train to the vicinity of the docks. The other is the Norwegian chapel, a small Nordic-style hermitage that survives from that time when sailors from this country docked at all the moorings in the known world. Today is a nice cafe where you can have a coffee, shop for local and Norwegian crafts and look at the boats as if the next one to leave is your ticket to the new world.
**19:00 I browse the Exchange **
However, the most luxurious version of Cardiff's past is in the form of a hotel. Located just a few blocks from the port, the Exchange has recently opened its doors occupying the old coal exchange. Both the concierges and all the interior design are dressed with memories of that time, while it is worth taking a look at its large hall where you do not know whether to enjoy a cocktail or buy shares.
Exchange
8:00 p.m. Pray, dine, dance
Before considering any type of nightlife, one thing must be clear: half of Wales comes to Cardiff every weekend to enjoy it, find love or forget sorrows. In other words, the city wakes up at night in a somewhat surprising and disproportionate way. And pubs and restaurants take advantage of it by offering discounts, incentives or, directly, the complete revelry. It is the case of Chapel 1877 , an old church converted into a restaurant that, when it stops serving Welsh black cheese sirloins (highly recommended and tasty), starts with the drinks. Yes indeed, in different and separate spaces so that no one bothers each other or the diners collide with the dancers . And may God catch us confessed.
23:00 keep dancing
Cardiff 'dublines' a lot in its pubs. That is to say, that it is overturned with good vibes, the best atmosphere and live music. A triumvirate that drinks the local beer, Brains in essentials as in TheCottage, Bar 44 (a Spanish joint without Spanish), The Globe or Full Moon.
DAY TWO
9:30 Breakfast and art at Chapter Center
Cardiff has been accused, on several occasions, of being too English and not too Welsh, a trend that has been reversing since the opening of the Millennium Center and its apology for everything local. In fact, the Welsh language itself, destined for the remotest rural areas of London, is recovering in small community centers. **The most outstanding is Chapter One ** . Located just 20 minutes walk from the city center, This charming parallel universe offers breakfasts with native talks, art galleries, music and dance classes and an environment where anything can happen. Essential to detect what is going on in the most restless minds of this city.
11:00 Sport or art
Today two good plans for mid-morning depending on your weaknesses. On one side is the Principality Stadium Tour, the true heart of the city, one of the most disproportionate coliseums (75,000 seats for 350,000 inhabitants) and most curious to see. The first point in its favor is that it is located in the city center, which makes the atmosphere of match day merge with the routine of the Welsh. The second, which is a rugby Temple, so during his visit the oval ball is king and the anecdotes revolve around this popular sport. And the third, which is even a tender stadium, since in its remodeling at the end of the 20th century they had to leave the concrete skeleton of the old stadium in the north stand.
The most artistic alternative is to know the National Gallery and Museum of Wales, the most outstanding artistic and scientific institution in the city where discoveries in physics, chemistry and natural history come together and the most outstanding exhibitions that can be seen across the Bristol channel.
National Gallery of Wales
12:30 Marketing and wandering
The street joins both plans through the neighborhood of the castle. It is a very pleasant set of pedestrian paths to stroll, shop and terrace under the Welsh flags. Once the walk is full, the steps lead to two of its main attractions. On one side is the church of San Juan Bautista , as coquettish as it is impressive, especially its stained glass windows. On the other, the central market, a roofed building from the end of the 19th century that should be wandered around and, above all, tasted. Its main stalls are the Ashton fishmonger where a kind of oatmeal cookie toast with algae paste and cockles is tapas, and the DeliMarket. Here its star delicatessen are two dishes typical of a game day: the meat pie of the clark family s and the liver dumplings with pea puree. The level of scrupulosity does not matter: you have to try them, period. oh! And before leaving, the post of hatt's vintage clothing offers a sampler of old-style clothing and hats. Come on, a funnel for hipsters and the curious with which to end this curious-gastronomic skirmish.
13:30 Eat under the arches... or where Bale
Again two alternatives, this time to eat. The most classic have their obligatory appointment in the arcades that were built in the 18th century. That is to say, commercial galleries full of Edwardian glass windows and old shop windows among which are coquettish restaurants and food houses such as Seasons Cafe, Barkers or Menuet. For their part, the football fans gather at the brand new restaurant in Gareth Bale Eleven Bar & Grill , a sports bar full of memories of the Real Madrid winger and where the crack himself signs the recipes of his fetish pizza and his favorite hamburger. However, the star product is the Bale Ale , a beer brewed by Brains to the taste of Welsh crack.
Hatt's shop, the vintage stronghold in the central market
16:00 The most beautiful town hall in Britain
Perhaps it is an exaggeration, but the cardifians themselves consider the most outstanding construction of the Civic Centre. It is a building very open to the public and the fetish place for civil weddings of the inhabitants of this city. A neoclassical delirium that is a door to imaginary washington dc and that it is surrounded by other government headquarters that breathe the same monumentality. In their small gardens, young people and families improvise plans with the holy unawareness that just a few steps away some politicians decide on their lives. But it's the same, Cardiff is largely made for the Welsh to enjoy. And now you too.
Cardiff Civic Center