They say that a Palencia it happens like Teruel. It is not "that it does not exist", but rather that once you have met it you wonder How is it possible that you have not escaped through these lands long before. And now that the cold seems to give a break and spring softens temperatures is the perfect time to escape to one of the best kept jewelry of Palencia: the city of Dueñas.
Dueñas was one of the most important cities in our country. In fact they have happened many historical chapters in which royal, noble and great houses dynasties They have been protagonists.
Santa María de Dueñas, Dueñas, Palencia.
We must not forget that we have moved to a village that was literally in the middle of the crowns of Leon and Castile, so it was a small city through which all the kings passed. It was even said that Ferdinand the Catholic was residing in Dueñas before marrying Elizabeth of Castile. It would be for something.
CITY OF KINGS AND GOOD EATING
With a cultural heritage to be enjoyed slowly, it is important to make a good roadmap to not lose detail on a getaway to Dueñas. That is why we recommend starting from the Tourist Office, which is located in an area where it is easier to park. There, in addition to giving you all the information, they will tell you that Dueñas was once a fortified city, guarded by a castle and with large access doors. It is a beautiful medieval town that is very proud of the beauty of its old town, recognized as Historical Artistic Complex since 1967.
Palace of the Counts of Buendía, Dueñas, Palencia.
From this point you have to go through the Ampudia highway until you reach the Door of the Eye of the Virgin, one of the remaining gates of the walled enclosure that was once the town of Dueñas and the first de rigueur photo. Crossing the pointed arch we arrive directly at the Plaza del Ayuntamiento, passing before what was the Palace of the Counts of Buendía, a castle in which they once lived Catholic kings and where his daughter Doña Isabel was born, architect of the union of the crown with the Kingdom of Portugal.
Turning to the right, you reach the Campillo Square, the place where the nobility was established and whose past remains Nava House. But first it is inevitable to go through the beautiful Church of San Agustin, that in its day was a convent that was razed to the ground in the 14th century and of which only the temple remains standing. Today is in heritage red list since its interior is in a state of abandonment and, incomprehensibly, nobody does anything to safeguard this treasure of our art.
Patio de Arcos of the Convent of San Agustín, Dueñas, Palencia.
Turning along Calle Damas to the left, you come to the Church of the Assumption, the most important of Dueñas. This temple, on horseback Between Romanesque and Gothic from the end of the 12th century, it is the guardian of the tomb of the Counts of Buendía and the great lords of Acuña. You can visit with peace of mind, and enjoy a incredible altarpiece from 1515 in an inexplicably perfect state of preservation.
There are many treasures, groping styles from Gothic to Rococo. It is also the Headquarters of the Parish Museum, where you can enjoy a Ecce Homo by Diego de Siloé from the beginning of the 16th century. Yes, Siloé, the same architect who designed the cathedral of Granada ; Well, he was here in Dueñas “doing his thing”.
Altarpiece of the Church of the Assumption, Dueñas, Palencia.
At the exit of the Church the sense of smell takes you directly to the place that is just opposite, the Bakery Oviedo, a nice place to sin with your black pudding empanadas, apple tarts or biscuits. Impossible not to stop with that aroma! And with a sweet in hand, we skirt the church to reach the Plaza del Doctor Sinova, a place where there is a curious monument dedicated to the jug. The residents of Dueñas once tried to recover the castle that fell into the hands of the Muslims and legend has it that they succeeded throwing pots In fact, the inhabitants of Dueñas are also known as "botijeros", and they are very proud of it.
LAMB AND CIGALES WINE, PERFECT MARRIAGE
If time has caught up and it's time to eat, no need to move much from here to put on the boots and Replenish forces. In fact, on the route we have taken we have passed by very good options to eat, but we recommend one especially: La Parrilla del Escudero.
The Squire's Grill, Dueñas.
The Squire's Grill (Pza. Spain, 7) is a restaurant of the usual, located next to City Hall. It is a place where grilled meats have a first and last name, and you have to come hungry, very hungry. Here you eat maybe one of the best lambs from the region, roasted in a wood oven and preceded by Cabrales croquettes for those who seek strong emotions. A little further on is the Courtyard Bar (Pza. España, 4), a perfect terrace for after-meal talk if the weather is nice and you want to enjoy Sun rays pm.
Furthermore, we must not forget that we are in the land of the D.O Cigales, so the rosé wines They have a special role in the botijera table. One of the most interesting activities we can do on our getaway to this beautiful town in Palencia is to visit one of its wineries, such as the one in Remigio de Salas Jalon, which has been at the foot of the canyon since 1778. In its underground cellar you can make a tasting of several of its wines while one learns a little more about the exquisite rosés from Cigales.
CURIOUS FACTS FOR CURIOUS TRAVELERS
In the Isabella the Catholic Square is the old deposit, the place where the nobles deposited the so-called "thirds", the money granted to the Crown by the Church. It dates from the 18th century and today they are considered the ancestors of the Montes de Piedad, today practically disappeared.
Remigio de Salas Jalón Winery, Dueñas, Palencia.
There is some belief that the Catholic Monarchs did not marry in Valladolid but they did it in Dueñas, in the Palacio de los Condes de Buendía. It is said that to avoid being recognized, Fernando entered the villa disguised as a commoner and sneaked into the palace where Elizabeth resided. They would marry in the chapel in secret and leave for Valladolid. Fact or legend?
José Bonaparte also lived in Dueñas. In fact, the house where he lived during the War of Independence is located behind the Iglesia de la Asunción, just in front of the jug monument. This beautiful palatial mansion of the century XVI It was the headquarters of the French troops during the Gallic occupation and today it is a good corner to take the required photo.
Southern branch of the Canal de Castilla as it passes through Dueñas.
You cannot finish your getaway to Dueñas without visiting Anton's Bakery (Use, 31). With almost 100 years of continuous work, the third generation of this family of confectioners has the most renowned Abyssinians in the area. Abyssinians are a kind of pepitos cream or cream filling who are very from here, although the bun itself It resembles in its texture more to that of midnight. Warning: they are a real vice.