Capileira, a must on a throat
#Grenaine
Let it be very clear: here the predominant adjective is this. No 'granaDino' or similar aberrations, that here the accent has its grace and its right to impose itself. And, above all, because there is an Alpujarra from Almeria to claim , although the one that dots the south of Granada continues to be the one that gives the most play.
#LanjarónYaNoEsLoQueEra
There is a very widespread current when the skin of Lanjarón is penetrated. A sensation that comes to life in the mouths of the oldest in the place who ensure that this thermal town has seen better times and that health no longer needs long stays soaking in its waters. Maybe. The reality is not so bleak.
Lanjarón is still the perfect door , the place with the most liveliness, the most restaurants and the best hotel conditions. Its spa has been converted into a cozy and sophisticated four-star hotel while the first bars of Lanjarón are full of establishments such as the Hotel Alcadima that take care of the traveler with good prices, attractive swimming pools and great viewpoints. Further on, the main street becomes an artery for rural enjoyment. In other words: shops, bars-restaurants, ice cream parlors and ladies who take the fresh air. So that #LanjarónYaNoEsLoQueEra It stops being a complaint to be something to be proud of and to cling to.
Gentlemen in Lanjarón
#SourcesAndVerses
Lanjarón is neither known nor visited: it is drunk. Around every corner there is a fountain where the water emanates restlessly that sweat the highest peaks of the Peninsula. Going looking for each sip allows you to find the most charming places in this town, starting with the sumptuous spa, where you can bring the glass to four of its taps and taste medicinal waters (and then discuss which one tastes better).
Hidden from the hustle and bustle of the road, the little square of Santa Ana where, not only is Andalusia summed up with its balconies, flowers, altar and lanterns, but there is also a succulent fountain decorated with white tiles with indigo trim. And about ceramics, some verses by Lorca that perpetuate that moment in which Lolita washes her body with brackish water and tuberose. And so, following streams and poems, he finds the Plaza de la Constitución (modern version) or the most authentic corners of the Hondillo neighborhood, where narrow streets and photogenic portals reign.
#CurvesWithViews
When Lanjarón is left behind, the adventure begins. The road gets wild , twists while gaining height and causes vertigo. In its curves appear hippies (of the real ones) hitchhiking or natural balconies where you can lean out to discover that you are in a microworld , in a valley protected by the peaks, in a natural haven where eucalyptus trees perfume the environment.
Alpujarra, a trip to respect the mountain
#Alpujarreño dish
The gastronomy of the Alpujarra lives from the sausage and the garden . And that makes everyone happy. To fully enjoy it, the best option is to ask for what comes to be called 'Alpujarra dish' , a kind of combined platform where you can find the best of the best. A little elaborate but effective way to test everything: some poor potatoes topped with a roasted green pepper, a couple of fried eggs, black pudding, longaliza and Trevélez ham . It sounds like a caloric bomb, but it's not so much, especially if you then get lost wandering around and discovering trails.
#NotBrazil
Before the Brazilian culture and its versioned Portuguese appeared to give exoticism to the language, there were already some places with a tropical name. It is the case of Poqueira Ravine and its two most outstanding towns: Capileira and Pampaneira. The first crowns the gorge while the second takes advantage of the last inhabitable slope before the mountain becomes impossible to colonize. And both places named after Rio de Janeiro's martial art, with a linguistic appeal that becomes touristy as soon as you visit.
#BlancoVsJarapas
Entering Capileira requires leave the car behind , climb to the top and start a descent where you can enjoy the view of the roofs with the typical chimneys and the vines climbing the facades. With the descent more streets, fountains and laundries appear. In other words, more life and more flowery doors. A labyrinth where only squares like the one in the church open to the sky . And at the end of it all, a cut from where you can admire the entire ravine with improvised viewpoints at the end of any street.
pampaneira It is presented with colored jarapas breaking white monochrome . A show worth seeing as these rugs take advantage of any pantone to give joy to the environment. A good tour of this town forces the visitor to climb to the highest alleys , follow the current of the small canals that govern the streets, procrastinate through the Plaza de la Libertad and fall in love with every corner of Verónica Street.
#TheFountainOrange
Outside Portugos the landscape is disturbed with an unexpected color. It is the Orange of the deposits left by the ferruginous water of the sour fountain and the four pipes that appear behind the hermitage of the Virgen de las Angustias. A color that leaves its trail along the entire stream. If you follow the flow you get to a small waterfall called El Chorrerón where the show is completed as orange stains rocks, trees and humid and leafy slopes.
#MoreWhiteSpots
White is once again the favorite color in other essential towns such as Bubión, Pitres or Bunquístar that dot the green and ocher slopes with purity.
#VivaElMimbre
It is practically impossible not to succumb to the temptations of the Alpujarra craft shops. Here they reign sausages, honeys, wines from the region (with names as curious as Malafollá) and the sweet pasta . However, wicker is king, with artisans who are capable of making anything with this material and selling it legally or furtively in the gutter. Buying is already a matter of taste, but at least they deserve a bit of free admiration.
#JamónDeTrevélez
Trevélez is a good end point for a little getaway through this land. After all, it is the highest town in Spain and reaching it is no small feat. But everything has a reward : your ham. And it is here that this product is cured using its magnificent breezes and its altitude conditions. Although it is not Jabugo, Guijuelo or Extremadura, Trevélez ham has a characteristic and special flavor , as well as a magnet for tourism since dryers such as Jamones Vallejo, or La Ruta de Trevélez can be visited to encourage hunger and salivate. And then, a good infinite walk through the three neighborhoods in which the town is divided to find corners such as the parish church or the laundries.
Have you already tried Trévelez Ham?