Morella, the jewel of Els Ports
Castellón is a bit like Basin either Teruel , which also exists. Because you will not deny that it is one of those provinces that, although it sounds familiar to many -for the IBF and little else-, most would not be able to place it well on the map. Or if? -dramatic pause…-.
Don't worry, you don't have to go running to look for it on Google Maps: you can find it in the north of the Valencian Community , located between Tarragona and Teruel.
If it is already enough stigma -said from the tourist point of view- to live in an unknown province, it is even more so to do it away from the coast. It's worth it that in less than an hour you can be bathing in Mediterranean waters, in Vinaroz , but to be in Levante it is not what is said to be a destination on the beach. And to top it off, paella is not their star dish. There's no need to, because even if El Último de la Fila sang it loudly, there is much more than rice in Castellón. We are talking about the inland area, which also exists and has its own name: The Ports , located between the counties of Maestrazgo (Castellón) and Matarraña (Teruel).
Write it down well, because if you haven't been here yet -which will be the most likely-, you don't know how many things you're missing, because this is one of those regions that don't need the hook of the beach or the claim of the socarrat to attract travelers. unless you don't like it neither nature, nor history, nor cultural heritage, nor eating (very) well. In any case, keep reading, because we are going to give you nine excuses so that you can finally pack your suitcase and head to Els Ports.
Els Ports, yet to be discovered
1.**IT IS THE REGION OF PORTS THAT DO NOT HAVE THE SEA (NOR NEED IT)**
Ports yes, but of Mountain. For this reason, the bicycle is a great means of transport in this area. A circular route, signposted and approved, of about 166 kilometers and 15 stages tour the region. It is the ** GR331: Els Ports - Camí de Conquesta .** It runs through old paths that traditionally linked the municipalities, between valleys and mountains. Hence the name of 'Los Puertos' of the region, due to its rugged terrain. Needless to say, in winter the weather is extreme, with subzero temperatures and snow (only 40 kilometers from the coast!).
two. ITS DRY STONES ARE INTANGIBLE HERITAGE OF HUMANITY BY UNESCO
And they are not just any stones, but meters and meters of constructions of walls made only of dry stone -a type of construction created by superimposing some stones on top of others, with nothing more to bind them than their flat shape and their own weight-. Well, this popular construction has just been recognized as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO.
These are stones that draw the characteristic rural landscape of Villafranca, and that, formerly, they were used to delimit fields and prevent landslides, build houses and control livestock. The town has made this rich landscape a signposted hiking network , with more than 200 kilometers of paths designed on paths that have existed since the time of the shepherds and that can now be enjoyed from a merely contemplative point of view.
In Villafranca the dry stone technique is widely used
3. ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL VILLAGES ON THE PENINSULA IS HERE
Morella It is the best known of the eleven towns that are integrated into the center of the community of Els Ports -namely, Castell de Cabres, Cinctorres, Forcall, La Mata, Olocau del Rey, Pobla de Benifassá, Todolella, Vallibona, Vilafranca and Villores-. It's something like the 'capital' of the region, and one of the four Valencian towns that can boast of having the title of most beautiful in Spain -next to Peñíscola, Villafamés and Guadalest, the latter, in Alicante-.
And yes, it's nice: fully walled, in the defensive style of medieval times, with its cobbled streets and medieval arcades, with the ruins of a castle crowning the top of the mountain -whose cloister is expected to house a future Parador…-. It can be visited, and it is worth it to contemplate the panoramic view from the heights.
Four. HOUSES THE SPANISH JURASSIC PARK
This is an area rich in paleontological sites, cave paintings and dinosaur remains of great scientific importance. Just visit the Anna field , in Cinctorres, to get an idea of the number of species that had to live in this area. And for a more authentic feel, a full size replica, protagonist of the project **Camins de Dinosaures de la Comunitat**. It's not Jurassic Park, but it's impressive.
And it doesn't end there, because it turns out that Morella has even his own kind of dinosaur , the Morelladon beltrani (discovered in 2015) . As if that were not enough, the most recent finding (September 2018) corresponds to a vertebra of a species that could be the biggest of its characteristics of all those located in deposits of the Iberian Peninsula, dated more than 120 million years ago. Coincidences? We do not believe.
Morella, one of the most beautiful towns in Spain
5. IT HAS SEVERAL BIB GOURMAND AND GASTRONOMIC RESTAURANTS WITH BLACK TRUFFLE FLAVOR
Addicts to haute cuisine, take note, because Els Ports is to eat it. Its restaurants with the Bib Gourmand seal of the Michelin Guide , What Daluan and the Shepherd's Inn , both in Morella, and other gastronomic spaces that will surely give a lot to talk about, such as the inn , also in Morella, where they practice fusion cuisine straddling tradition and avant-garde with Asian touches. also highlights L'Escudella in Villafranca, with market cuisine based on local produce: its homemade pennyroyal yoghurt , simply delicious and tremendously aromatic, deserves a special mention.
Indeed, the truffle is one of the region's star ingredients when winter arrives -from November to February-. In fact, they say that Morella was the first market - black, and never better said - for truffles in Spain, in the middle of the 20th century.
6. THERE IS NO PAELLA, BUT THERE ARE OLLETAS, GOOD CHEESES AND BEST CROQUETTES
The popular cuisine is very rich. In the salty section, nobody leaves without trying their cheeses (the Pastor de Morella cheese factory is a point to be taken into account) nor its morellan croquettes : they are triangular and stuffed with cooked meat, or pot meat, as they say around here -in fact, the 'olleta' is their star dish, and not paella, which is a land of stews and stews of good bottoms-. In the sweet section, the king is the flon -or flaó-, a kind of fried pastry stuffed with cottage cheese, honey and almonds. Bomb for diabetics, yes, but all the compliments that are made are few.
In the Mesón del Pastor they cook with care
7. ITS ESPADRILLES: FROM THE REGION TO THE REST OF THE WORLD
Here there are popular traditions that still resist, such as the esparto espadrilles . to the town of the kill It is known by the nickname of the town of els espardenyers and artisan workshops such as Iata, one of the very few that still resist, confirm it, because far from being a popular souvenir piece, the espadrille is synonymous with industry in this region. From here come the ones that are later signed by big names in international fashion, such as Scalpers or Armand Basi, to name just a few. They are made by hand, with hand-sewn jute, and are exported to Chile, London, Australia, France...
8. FESTIVALS THAT (ALMOST) ARE WORLD HERITAGE
In Forcall, When January 18 arrives, the whole town prepares to celebrate the festivities of San Antonio . EITHER ' santantoná ' as they say around here. It is a popular festivity whose main attraction is the fire in a shack built with recently cut logs in the forest, and work is being done to declare it a World Heritage Site. But, like all good jokes, told loses, so it's best see for yourself and walk through the burning barracks, if you dare.
Do you dare with the 'santantoná'?
9. IT HAS THE BEST PRESERVED MEDIEVAL ART IN A LOST MOUNTAIN VILLAGE
Vallibona , a town with just a handful of inhabitants that, seen from the air, draw the silhouette of the map of Spain a -without Portugal- guards a treasure: a parish church in which Arab polychromies have been discovered , one of the best preserved on the peninsula, and which have led to the church being declared an Asset of Cultural Interest. Although for treasure, their forests . The same ones that in the past were the pantry of the charcoal burners, the main industry in the area until new ways of obtaining energy arrived. To get to know him better, the ideal is to visit his interpretation Center .
The curious profile of Vallibona