"In Spain we have been feeding ourselves based on low quality bread , in many cases precooked. The idea has been sold hot bread as if it were something good, but a well-made bread is recognized when it has been given time to settle and for that, several hours should pass from the moment it is cooked until the moment it is consumed", they explain. Guido and Alberto Miragoli , founders of Cientotreinta°, a workshop in the Chamberi neighborhood and a fundamental part of the new tradition that has been established in Madrid by bread entrepreneurs: that of recovering an undervalued product and giving it back its deserved importance on the table.
We have reached the point where not everything is worth anymore when it comes to bread. Going down to buy the first one we find is no longer the daily routine and, if we find the time, we even travel considerable distances to find it. The people of Madrid give everything for their bread and look for the best like someone looking for unconditional love, denying what until now they considered quality.
Albert and Guido
But what about the bread (artisan and sourdough) that there is no one who misses the opening of a workshop or stands in line to buy their favorite? What until a few years ago seemed transient trend It is now a way of life that is reminiscent of a time gone by, the town, the grandparents and the days when rushing was not taken into account when cooking. Or for those who haven't known any of that, it's been the realization that taste does matter. Whatever it takes.
One of those sites that has contributed its grain of sand to do so is the private workshop of One Hundred and Thirty°, located in the Fernando el Catolico street , the shared dream of the Miragoli brothers to undertake together that saw the light in December 2017. A restlessness that derived from his travels and his italian roots on the father's side, as well as Basque by Mother. "After returning from our experiences abroad and having trained and acquired a solid professional career, we were prepared to launch the project that today is made up of a small family made up of 16 people", they detail us.
Their breads have been awarded prizes that define them as the best in Madrid , and are made by Alberto every day. "As much as it seems like repetitive work, Every day we change and adapt processes to improve our product", they explain about some loaves –wholemeal; flax and oatmeal; or campaign–, baguette and ciabatta that does not stop gaining followers for its thin, crispy crust with a soft, light crumb Its loaves abound with a cereal flavor and a complexity that makes them even more intense. The acidity in its whiter breads is barely perceptible, while in the more whole-grain pieces it is more pronounced but balanced. In fact, its fermentation process is carried out in some banettones made in wicker by artisans in Cuenca , so effective that they have caught the attention of bakers like Richard Hart, in Copenhagen.
In the sweetest, his confectionery is the reflection of styles from all over the world, being his crispy palm tree and croissants the best sellers in the house. "Our palm tree does not have much of a secret, but it is true that we exclusively use French butter, without any type of saturated vegetable fat," they clarify. "Its baking is long and at a relatively low temperature," they confess. And your croissant? What is the secret of its fluffiness? "It's a process It takes three days from kneading to baking . This makes the dough develop flavor and texture, but our biggest secret (which is not so much) is the use of butter, lots of butter ", they add.
Although those who visit his store on a daily basis dare with more, as with his loquat crostata, cardamom rolls, banana bread or its addictive babka –a brioche feuilletée with a mixture of chocolate, hazelnuts, butter and sugar–, some of the creations that parade through its counter daily and according to the season.
Looking back, Guido and Alberto dared with a project that was pioneer when it comes to including bread and pastries with coffee within the same umbrella. "We came full of desire with our eyes set outside of Spain and with ideas that we wanted to bring to Madrid," they explain. Theirs comes from small specialty green coffee distributors that bring in micro-lots from different farms. "We do tastings and, after trying the coffees, we choose the ones that best fit the average profile of our customers."
The roast They make it in their own workshop on a weekly basis and, unlike the commercial coffee that is consumed in most cafeterias, it is of a highest quality , which avoids having to resort to over-roasting to cover unpleasant flavors or homogenize mixtures. "This is why coffees tend to have a very dark color and the taste tends to be very bitter," they explain. Their coffees, on the other hand, are light roasts , with origins in Africa –fruity and floral–, Central America –chocolate and hazelnut– and Indonesia, –with less acidity and with herbaceous and chocolaty touches–.
Its aspiration is to reach the level of production of some of its international referents , although at the moment it is just a plan for the future that they hope to be able to make a reality sooner rather than later. "The world of specialty coffee has developed very strongly in countries of the north Europe . big guy names The Goat or Coffee Collective in Denmark; either the Barn or Bonanza in Germany, they are always a benchmark for their quality", they say. "But there are also small projects such as Or Coffee in Belgium or Mok , which in a more modest way, do very important work for the development of communities where coffee is grown".