butter croissant
Estela Puff Pastry opened last May without making much noise, beyond what was heard between gastronomic critics who praised it and a neighborhood, that of The letters , who was looking forward to it. With the occasional exception –such as the French-inspired Motteau or the creative one by Javier Ramos– there are no artisan pastry shops in the area. And they should, being the focus of attention for tourists and an area in which the residents need to make the leap to the Sol area to find the sweet tradition of patisseries like La Mallorquina, El Riojano or the Old Well Pastry Shop . and done puff pastry , also: although not like the one proposed by Estela Puff Pastry.
"The preparation of puff pastry is a matter of culture. It is done differently depending on the place. In La Mancha or Castilla y León they do it, for example, with butters , the product that gives the land. While in the north it is done with butters , which in the end gives a result more sophisticated and is more in demand, approaching the version born in France , cradle of puff pastry. It is all a matter of situation how it is made. You won't find puff pastry in the south, for example, just as you won't find good olive oil in the north", explains Estela Gutiérrez of the reasons that make her product so special and what sets it apart from other pastry shops centenarians of Madrid.
Black pudding and cream empanada
"Pastry shops in general were forgetting. For as big as the city is, there aren't enough of them to get a well-made sweet," she adds. That is why the residents of Calle Jesús, on the edge of the Basilica of the Christ of Medinaceli , praise her on every visit, thanking her for saving them from traveling unnecessary distances to find a good croissant, a delicate cake or a tasty pie.
"Also, it's curious that this happens because in my town there are 2 or 3 good pastry shops and we are only 8,000 inhabitants."
Estela Puff pastry shop-workshop
Estela, who this year took second place in the Revelation Pastry Chef Award 2021 of Madrid Fusion refers to salt head , in Cantabria, a place where his father owned Peter's Bakery and reason why she grew up between flour and sugar from an early age. But also the root of the family business that is now run by her sisters under the name of Hijas de Pedro. Moreover, even her uncle, her father's brother-in-law, joined the trade, opening the bakery Glory in Polanco, Bilbao.
When Estela arrived in Madrid in 2017, the doors were opened to her with a project entitled puff pastry , together with Javier Bonet (Cutting Room), to later collaborate with Javier Marca in panic . "They sold my puff pastry and I also distributed it in some restaurants. I have always collaborated with people outside my family in Madrid and in the end I realized that I wanted to do something for myself, alone." she explains her. "I've grown up with my father, my mother's family has always been dedicated to the same thing... so I think this is my destiny."
In a place of art deco style , retro and charming –designed by her together with a decorator friend–, located in the same building as her residence, Estela is accompanied by two more pastry chefs and two shop assistants.
"It is the team with which we have started, for the moment. We wanted to see first how the clientele reacted and see how the products that were going to be in greatest demand moved. My son also came to lend me a hand and my boy, Javier Salas, who he is a photographer", details the confectioner.
Estela Gutierrez
With her always in command of her and as creative head (and executing hands), all together they carry forward every day and in an artisanal way products such as very delicate millefeuille of butter with almonds or pastry cream. Apple and almond cake , specialty of the house; croissants, Neapolitans, snails and puff pastry bread. "We also have empanadas individual or whole on request: cecina with goat cheese and red pepper; of bacon, manchengo cheese and dates...".
And how is that differentiating point achieved with the other puff pastries that have reached our palates so far? "The practice and experience . You don't learn how to make puff pastry in two days. Not in a month. You have to know the texture well, its kneading time, the rest and the cold is essential, but above all the Butter and the flours (French for the puff pastry and Cantabrian for the creams)".
cream sandwich